miller121mx

iTrader: (6)

I searched for days for a how-to when I did mine, and I came up empty. I don't remember step by step how I did it, but it's really not as hard as it seems. Time consuming, but not as challenging as I expected. You will be removing a ton of bolts/nuts, so be sure to store and mark them accordingly. When I take something off, I like to thread the bolt back in a couple of turns so I know it goes there for sure.

As far as gaskets/seals, I don't think anything is supposed to be reusable. I've heard of reusing some exhaust side gaskets, but for the price, I didn't. The only thing I reused was the valve cover seal. I can't remember if it was necessary, but I pulled off the thermostat housing, which required replacing that gasket as well. If you're near/over 60k miles, you should replace the timing belt, balance shaft belt, some people like to do the water pump while you're in there, and the accessory belt if hasn't been replaced yet.

I do not know if the factory head bolts can be re-used. I was replacing mine with ARP studs anyway. Someone else will have to answer that, but I probably wouldn't take the chance on having to do all this again.

Of course the valve cover will have to come off, along with everything attached to it like the ignition components and the bolts for the wiring harness connectors. If you're pulling the intake manifold and throttle body with it, then the throttle cable will need to be removed from the TB, and unbolted from the intake.

I only pulled the head once, and I was getting my manifolds ported at the same time so I pulled everything. If you decide to go this route, pretty much disconnect everything attached to the intake manifold and throttle body (I left the TB on for the time being). All the vacuum lines, the ground wire, the coolant hoses going to the TB if you haven't eliminated them, etc. I already drained my coolant and pulled the radiator because I had the turbo off, so I'm not sure if you need to drain the whole coolant system or not. I'm not a mechanic, just a regular guy working in my garage.

I took a bunch of pictures from different angles just to be sure, but there is a diagram of the vacuum hose routing stuck to the underside of the hood. I also used some tape and a marker to make sure I could figure out where some things went. Don't forget the 2 14mm bolts holding the bottom of the manifold to the black bracket underneath. These are the ones I mentioned in the other post about using a long extension (like 2 feet or so) with a swivel.

You'll have to unbolt the fuel rail and pull the injectors out. I'm sure there's a correct way to drain the gas out of there before doing this, but I just put some towels under the car and let it spill... I wouldn't use an incandescent drop light while doing this, just in case. I then pulled the wiring harness, fuel rail, injectors, throttle cable, and everything attached up onto my windshield and wire tied it there.

If I didn't have to pull the intake mani anyway, it might have been easier to just leave it in place and unbolt it. I don't know if you'll get a torque wrench in there to torque it back down though. Moving on...


If you pull the head with the exhaust manifold still attached (I would think it's a nightmare getting at some of the nuts while it's on the car), you will of course need to unbolt the mani from the turbo. I believe there are 2 studs with nuts and 2 regular bolts. Supposedly these usually give trouble, so maybe soak them with penetrating oil. Again, I already had this stuff off, but make a note that if you changed your o2 housing to one that doesn't have a bracket to the motor, like the ebay ones, you will probably need to put a jackstand under the downpipe to support that stuff, and maybe wire it in place so it doesn't move around. I don't believe there is anything else holding it up. Make sure you don't damage the oil line from the turbo back to the oil pan. Obviously you will need to remove the oil line from the head to the turbo, and the coolant line might have to come off but I don't remember for sure.

When you're ready to loosen the head bolts, make sure you loosen them in the correct pattern. I don't have a link to this, but I believe you can find the service manual online. If you don't use the right pattern, you can warp the head. Again, not a mechanic, but I believe any time you pull the head you are supposed to get it checked by a machine shop to make sure it's flat. I didn't do anything to do the block besides a real good cleaning... maybe someone else can chime in here if something is supposed to be done to it.

I attempted to use the "timing belt tool", well actually I made one out of threaded rod, but I wasn't comfortable with it since it was my first time pulling a head. I ended up taking the lower timing cover off, so I could be positive the timing was on. There is a pretty good how-to on replacing the timing belt that would describe what this entails here: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...placement.html

EDIT: A little late, but I just thought of something to add. While you have the head off, use those long q-tips or another method of your choosing to soak up any oil that might be laying in the head bolt holes. I remember reading that if you don't, and there is oil in the holes, you will get false torque readings because rather than the bolts/studs getting tight, you are actually kind of pressurizing the oil at the bottom of the holes. Hope that makes sense.

Of course when you're done with the head/gasket, make sure you torque the head bolts or studs in the proper pattern described in the service manual. There are patterns for the intake and exhaust manifolds as well. The link above will get you straightened out in the timing department. Make absolutely, positively sure that you turn the motor over by hand before trying to start it.



That's all the time I have at the moment. If I think of any more details or anything, I'll update this later. Let me know if you need anything else, or more specific details, and I will help as best I can. Feel free to PM me about it also.

HymerDing

Thanks Miller, this is awesome. I'm waiting on some parts (ARPs) and then I'll be going for it. I've tracked down the torque specs and sequences, but if you're amenable I'll plan to pm you as other questions arise (hopefully not too many).

miller121mx

iTrader: (6)

I'm more than willing to help as much as I can. If you get really stuck, I can PM you my cell number for easier communication. No need to worry about sending a bunch of questions, it won't bother me at all. I'd rather help you get it right the first time, than have you not ask a question because you're afraid you'll upset me, and possibly miss something important.

HymerDing

Very much appreciated. I'll pm you when I get started and you can let me know when would be a good time for a call if it's still cool with you. I definitely want to do this right and learn from the experience, but I'll need guidance.

miller121mx

iTrader: (6)

Sounds good.

adotwhite

iTrader: (13)

Lotta good info in this thread. Doing my head gasket with arp studs this weekend....should be fun *sarcasm* lol

RpVilleneuve

Its always good to have the head milled true and flat. Otherwise you could really be wasting your time.

stevelubs

1700???