Hack 'n MOD '06 MR shifter
Jan 23, 2011, 04:52 PM
#1
Hack 'n MOD '06 MR shifter
so i read a few threads about people wanting a short throw shifter for 6sp MR transmissions... some people even talked about attempting it but never posted a review or that they did...
so me being a diy kinda guy i set out to make a simple short throw shifter that is completely reversible...
first... any modification of you car and subsequent damage is not my fault. try at your own risk...
begin by removing the center counsel... the two screws in the rear cubby.. then pull up and the two front clips will come free... there are two screws in the base of the shifter cover and one under the ashtray once those are removed unbutton the shift boot and you can pull out the center counsel.
when thats out of the way remove the 2 10mm bolts from the front counsel support/cable guard...
at this point the entire shifter assembly is exposed and you can start to remove it... begin by removing the retaining clip and shifter linkage from the upper mount.
then using a flat head screw driver pop off the lower shifter linkage.
now using a 12mm socket and pull the 4 shifter base bolts so that you can get underneath... now with at 10mm socket and extension and a 10mm wrench. remove the 4 bolts that secure the base plate of the shifter itself...
being very careful to not crack or break the shifter linkage bushings pull up on the shifter and wiggle it out of the mount. i broke my lower bushing being to aggressive and it ran me 10 bucks for a new one with a military discount. once you have it out of the base clean it up. using a punch and a small hammer remove the two pins that hold the reverse lock out in place... once they are pulled remove the lockout cap and pull the spring out of the the assembly. turn the lock out so you can make a mark on the shaft across from the linkage ball joint. the maximum you can safely move it up is 1 3/8'' thats how far i did and i have absolutely no extra room. whatever distance you chose measure up from your mark and make another.
I left the next section up to a professional welder and paid 40 bucks. but heres the how to portion anyway.
now using a grinder or cut off wheel cut the welds of the upper shifter linkage mount. once you have cut it free grind the shaft smooth and completely debur it. this is very important. even a lil bur with make the lockout stick when its back together. now carefully move the mount and center it on your new mark. ensure that its centered over the original placement. tack it into place and double check all your measurements and clearances. if everything is on point then weld it in place... debur it one last time to be on the safe side...
EDIT: YOU MUST EXTEND THE LINKAGE IN ORDER TO PROPERLY REACH 1ST AND 5TH GEAR. OTHERWISE THEY WILL ENGAGE BUT NOT FULLY. EITHER REMOVE THE LINKAGE STUD AND WELD IT TO A KNEW TAB THAT IS 3/8s TO 3/4 INCHES LONGER THEN STOCK DEPENDING ON HOW FAR YOU MOVED IT OR EXTEND THE TAB BY WELDING A PIECE TO IT...
now heres where i got my shifter back.
I eyeballed the clearance of the upper shifter mount versus the lockout case... using a dremel cutoff wheel i notched the reverse lockout so that it would rotate back to the stock orientation and clear the linkage mount.
remember to notch low enough on the lockout so that when its lifted it will still clear the linkage mount. after that was done i deburred the plastic to make sure it would slide as smooth as possible. at this point you should be complete on everything and just need to reassemble the shifter.
slide the spring back into the assembly with the lockout as low as it can be. this is easier with 3 hands. slide the lockout back up with the upper pin ready to go into the hole before the spring does. it took me forever. once you have the pin in place with the entire spring below it. tap the pin til its even on either side. then tap the lower pin back in. put the lockout cap back on and tighten it down. using general automotive grease or factory shifter assembly grease lube the lockout and linkage bushing back up. following the removal section in reverse lift the shifter, slide the base plate bolts back threw the shifter base and tighten the 4 10mm bolts. then take the shifter base and tighten then 4 12mm bolts back down.
PLEASE CHECK YOUR CLEARANCES BEFORE YOU MODIFY THE CENTER COUNSEL AND COUNSEL SUPPORT...
now the first adjustment you might have to make to the interior is the front counsel support. if you didnt got 1 3/8'' you should be able to get away with only notching the front support. i however had to measure and cut the brace entirely in half. i measured the distance from the shifter base to the front support when its bolted in. then i measure the brace itself from the center screw tab over and made a mark for the same distance to the shifter base. I cut a lil further then my mark... then at the center screw tab i cut into but not threw the front support. i then bent the support downward so that it would sit on top of the shifter base and support the counsel.
after that i separated the front counsel from the gray shifter bezel portion. i removed the 5 phillilps head screws from the shifter boot bezel ring. using a staple gun i tacked the shifter boot to the ring and notched the ring. i also cut the front screw hole off of the gray portion. this allowed clearance for the shifter linkage and cable. once it was notched i cut away the extra shifter boot cloth and stapled the front most portion to the ring. dont cut all the way threw the ring or it wont hold the shift boot anymore...
now you can reassemble the entire center counsel and enjoy the shortened shifts
sorry i didnt have pics for everything... if you have any questions and want some pointers on what i'm talking about then post a reply and ask...
so me being a diy kinda guy i set out to make a simple short throw shifter that is completely reversible...
first... any modification of you car and subsequent damage is not my fault. try at your own risk...
begin by removing the center counsel... the two screws in the rear cubby.. then pull up and the two front clips will come free... there are two screws in the base of the shifter cover and one under the ashtray once those are removed unbutton the shift boot and you can pull out the center counsel.
when thats out of the way remove the 2 10mm bolts from the front counsel support/cable guard...
at this point the entire shifter assembly is exposed and you can start to remove it... begin by removing the retaining clip and shifter linkage from the upper mount.
then using a flat head screw driver pop off the lower shifter linkage.
now using a 12mm socket and pull the 4 shifter base bolts so that you can get underneath... now with at 10mm socket and extension and a 10mm wrench. remove the 4 bolts that secure the base plate of the shifter itself...
being very careful to not crack or break the shifter linkage bushings pull up on the shifter and wiggle it out of the mount. i broke my lower bushing being to aggressive and it ran me 10 bucks for a new one with a military discount. once you have it out of the base clean it up. using a punch and a small hammer remove the two pins that hold the reverse lock out in place... once they are pulled remove the lockout cap and pull the spring out of the the assembly. turn the lock out so you can make a mark on the shaft across from the linkage ball joint. the maximum you can safely move it up is 1 3/8'' thats how far i did and i have absolutely no extra room. whatever distance you chose measure up from your mark and make another.
I left the next section up to a professional welder and paid 40 bucks. but heres the how to portion anyway.
now using a grinder or cut off wheel cut the welds of the upper shifter linkage mount. once you have cut it free grind the shaft smooth and completely debur it. this is very important. even a lil bur with make the lockout stick when its back together. now carefully move the mount and center it on your new mark. ensure that its centered over the original placement. tack it into place and double check all your measurements and clearances. if everything is on point then weld it in place... debur it one last time to be on the safe side...
EDIT: YOU MUST EXTEND THE LINKAGE IN ORDER TO PROPERLY REACH 1ST AND 5TH GEAR. OTHERWISE THEY WILL ENGAGE BUT NOT FULLY. EITHER REMOVE THE LINKAGE STUD AND WELD IT TO A KNEW TAB THAT IS 3/8s TO 3/4 INCHES LONGER THEN STOCK DEPENDING ON HOW FAR YOU MOVED IT OR EXTEND THE TAB BY WELDING A PIECE TO IT...
now heres where i got my shifter back.
I eyeballed the clearance of the upper shifter mount versus the lockout case... using a dremel cutoff wheel i notched the reverse lockout so that it would rotate back to the stock orientation and clear the linkage mount.
remember to notch low enough on the lockout so that when its lifted it will still clear the linkage mount. after that was done i deburred the plastic to make sure it would slide as smooth as possible. at this point you should be complete on everything and just need to reassemble the shifter.
slide the spring back into the assembly with the lockout as low as it can be. this is easier with 3 hands. slide the lockout back up with the upper pin ready to go into the hole before the spring does. it took me forever. once you have the pin in place with the entire spring below it. tap the pin til its even on either side. then tap the lower pin back in. put the lockout cap back on and tighten it down. using general automotive grease or factory shifter assembly grease lube the lockout and linkage bushing back up. following the removal section in reverse lift the shifter, slide the base plate bolts back threw the shifter base and tighten the 4 10mm bolts. then take the shifter base and tighten then 4 12mm bolts back down.
PLEASE CHECK YOUR CLEARANCES BEFORE YOU MODIFY THE CENTER COUNSEL AND COUNSEL SUPPORT...
now the first adjustment you might have to make to the interior is the front counsel support. if you didnt got 1 3/8'' you should be able to get away with only notching the front support. i however had to measure and cut the brace entirely in half. i measured the distance from the shifter base to the front support when its bolted in. then i measure the brace itself from the center screw tab over and made a mark for the same distance to the shifter base. I cut a lil further then my mark... then at the center screw tab i cut into but not threw the front support. i then bent the support downward so that it would sit on top of the shifter base and support the counsel.
after that i separated the front counsel from the gray shifter bezel portion. i removed the 5 phillilps head screws from the shifter boot bezel ring. using a staple gun i tacked the shifter boot to the ring and notched the ring. i also cut the front screw hole off of the gray portion. this allowed clearance for the shifter linkage and cable. once it was notched i cut away the extra shifter boot cloth and stapled the front most portion to the ring. dont cut all the way threw the ring or it wont hold the shift boot anymore...
now you can reassemble the entire center counsel and enjoy the shortened shifts
sorry i didnt have pics for everything... if you have any questions and want some pointers on what i'm talking about then post a reply and ask...
Last edited by joseph143; Jan 30, 2011 at 12:06 AM. Reason: Change added to linkage adjustment
Jan 25, 2011, 01:29 PM
#3
As a side note. Modifying the shifted this way will leave the forward gears in the same place as stock but the back three gears are where neutral is stock. Even though the shifts are shortened they are still a distance away. My next project is to adjust the engagement point where the back three gears are in the stock location and front three are where neutral is stock. I might also shorten the shaft as well. Ill keep updating as I move forward
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