evoniners

So the other day I splurged and bought a set of GSC S2 cams and beehive springs for my Evo 9. I noticed after reading the installation instructions that came with the cams that they want you to lube the cam journals with redline assembly lube instead of engine oil before installation. It also goes onto say that your not supposed to run synthetic oil with these cams but to instead use conventional oil. Does anyone have any experience with these cams and can shed some light on this.

llDemonll

iTrader: (21)

Doesn't relate to your question, but you should also consider getting upgraded valve springs as well with anything above S1's

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Yes, use an actual engine assembly lube on the lobes and journals when you install the cams. The non-syn oil is for cam break-in. Get a high quality convention break-in oil from a racing oil manufacturer like amsoil. Follow the break-in instructions the came with the cam, then you can switch back to synthetic.


And as Demon said, get a set of valvesprings and retainers. GSC sells a perfect matching set for the S2 cams, and they are reasonably priced and very high quality.

GrabbinGears

I installed s3 cams in my car I used the asembly lube and put my regular synthetic oil I use back in it. Then changed the oil after afew hundred miles. The car has been running great. Don't forget to pull the lifters out and bleed them.

evoniners

Great advice. I appreciate the response. Is there a procedure to follow for bleeding the lifters?

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

You use a small allen key, or straightened paper clip. Stick it into the lifter via the hole on the top, find the check ball, depress it, then cycle the plunger. Oil will squirt out and the plunger will be easy to cycle if you did it right. You can do this with the lifter submerged in diesel fuel to flush/clean it out.


Personally, I recommend just picking up a new set of either GSC zer tick lifter, or top-line revised lifters. This will ensure you don't get any lifter tick when you're done.

evoniners

So from what I have read on the lifters is you want to put them back into the engine with no oil inside them and all while still being able to cycle the plunger easily,is this right? I guess I am trying to understand why it would matter whether oil was in them. It also mentiones to prime the oil system prior to starting the engine. What is the easiest way to do this?

GrabbinGears

Yes The purpose of the hydraulic lifters is to keep valve lash properly adjusted. (Valve lash is basically how tight the cam rides on the rocker arm) right now there adjusted to the stock cam and you have to bleed the oil out so they can readjust to the bigger cams. When you crank the engine over oil pressure will pump them back up and adjust to new cam.

To prime the motor I just disconnected the ignition coils and cranked it over a few times.

lghtngyello03

iTrader: (44)

I just finished a head gasket job, as well as installing GSC S2's and GSC beehive springs/retainers.

I used Permatex Ultra Slick Engine Assembly Lube on the lobes, rockers, and journals. I've used this stuff for a while now and never had a problem out of it. I'm using Brad Penn oil as well.

I followed the bleeding procedure for the lifters in the Factory Repair Manual.....no ticks, noises, or anything. I've put about 30 miles on them so far, and am planning to put some more on them, change my oil, then get a retune.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Easiest way to prime the oiling system when doing cams is to get the head all finished up, lock the cams in place with a cam gear tool, and install the valve cover. Then, without the timing belt on, spin the oil pump with an electric drill.