Tri-Bar

Jack up the car and remove the wheels, place jack stands under the lower control arms.
Remove the tie rod end from the spindle. Undo the end links. Using a 27/34”drill bit I drilled center-to-center ¾”. The sway bar mounting tabs are an inch thick. You will need to mark ½” down to center. Place a two by four under the sway bar. Drill…drill and drill. This may take some time. The sway bar is made out of hard spring steel. When the hole is done you can put it all together.

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ogvw

iTrader: (4)

good write up Tri-Bar , and a good idea. How does it feel?

Tri-Bar

Very crisp! faster turn in, less rollover on the tires. I am using Falken sports 245-45-17"s, softer sidewall. Even with that, I can tell its better. I dabbed the tires.temps are better as well, across the tire. The 3/4 inch move is about the same as a 25.3 mm bar would be. Next I going to install poly sway bar bushing, that should ferm it up a bit more.

ogvw

iTrader: (4)

agreed - the poly bushing will help as well. Are you running a rear bar? I dont want to induce more "push"

Tri-Bar

Yeah! a Works 24mm, 3-way adjustable set on soft right now(wheel lift set on full. ie..too much roll stiffnes). Push is not really a problem. but I did need some front wheel rate to get rid of it, tires rolled to much even with 35psi, I uped it to 41psi, did the sway bar mod, It's a whole lot better. I am hoping the poly's will be all I need. Will know more after our next event. Still playing with the set up. If I can get this to work I may keep the Tanabe GF210's.

chrisw

iTrader: (2)

SO I did this mod over the weekend on an otherwise stock EVO.

The difference was much better than expected!

A couple of note on the original install.
[list=1][*]The drill bit size is 27/64 not 27/32. We are looking to drill a 10mm hole and a couple of drill bits will work in this case. Finding a 27/64 drill bit is hard enough. I also found that a 13/32 drill bit will work as well.[*]don't waste your time (like I did) using standard drill bits. Go to a decent hardware store and buy some colbalt drill bits. I wasted 1 titanium drill bit plus another hardened drill bit (hardest crap Sear & rubish had in stock). If you take the time to get proper drill bits, drilling the holes will only take about 10 minutes.[*]I was able to get away with leaving the tie-rod end intact. After raising the car and disconnecting the swaybar, you have enough room to raise the swaybar so the drill does not interfere with the tie rod.[*]Try as best you can to get the holes centered. This not only creates better operation but also helps getting everything back together.[/list=1]

I used a 13/32 drill bit which works out to 10.5mm diameter hole, while the 27/64 drill bit is a 10.7mm hole. You probably could get away with a smaller hole, maybe a 9.8mm at most, but I am not sure what size drill bit that is.

either way you can't go wrong with this mod if you take the timem to mark everything properly.

Thanks Tri-Bar!

you da man!!!!

let me know when you find the poly bushings! that would be key addition to finish this project.

M3lachsilber

CAUTION ON THIS MOD!! May not be for the beginner.

Discuss thread HERE.