so where does the other can hook to?

 

Thats what I'm talkin about, man!

 

whats the yellow stuff at the end of the lines, and how did you slip the line over the nipple on the valve cover?

 

intersects the line from the PCV valve to the intake manifold. prevents oil from leaking out of your PCV valve into your intake manifold. so, it catches oil only while under vacuum.

The yellow stuff at the end of the line came with the fittings I got. All they are are circular rubber pieces that act as a "cap" to the steel hoses. they cover the nasty looking steel wires that result after you cut the hose. and it just has a hole in it to allow the nipple to fit through it. I hope that makes sense. if it doesn't I can just pull it off and take a picture of it tomorrow if you want.

As far as attaching the line to the nipple on the valve cover, there's nothing to it. just slip on the line and clamp it down real well with a small clamp. if you really want to be hardcore, you could take off the valve cover and tap and drill out the nipple and attach an appropriate AN adaptor or something. but that's kinda overkill.

 

good stuffs denial

 

does any body know where i can get those clear rubber hoses for the catch cans?

 

man I really wouldn't use them, mine went to crap pretty quickly too.

 

Appreciate it.

I agree with mitsuorder but if you really want to use them you can get some clear braided hoses from home depot. I tried them out but they melted and deformed on me. my suggestion would be to use thick walled fuel line (holds up to the heat and pressure well).

 

yeah that stuff looks bling at first then gets yellow and rotten ,go with real steal hose not the pep boys crap,you wont regret it

 

Hey denial where did you pick up all of the lines and fittings for this project? I'm on a bit of a budget and will probably be doing this same thing with a couple of those filters for air tools in the next couple of days.

Thanks,
Josh

 

First off all the pieces in my setup cost me about ~100 bucks EXCLUDING the cans which were 75 bucks a piece. So if you're on a budget I suggest you wait until you can get everything including the can(s) so you know exactly what fittings you'll need.

The lines are actually Russell lines (I forget which one specifically as they offer several varieties). Unfortunetely I got the fittings from a local warehouse located in the industrial part of my city. They specialize in hoses and fittings (they have any sized t-bolt clamp, any hose, in all the silicon you could ever want). I wish I could give you some internet reference but I can't.

Here's my suggestion: if you have a good "hookup" see how cheap you could get the Russell pieces for (they are pretty expensive mind you). From there look in the yellow book and try to find a local place that sells hoses and fittings and whatnot and see what kinds of prices they offer you. The most expensive part of this was the hose by far--you might want to try to find a no-name steel hose with a rubber lining to cut down on cost. That being said, I'm almost 100% positive that regular thick walled rubber fuel line would work just as well as the steel lines in this particular application. They are MUCH cheaper than the steelies. Just a suggestion.

The fittings will also add up ($$$) depending on how many catch cans you decide to run. You'll need an adaptor (X size NPT to X size AN) and then the AN fitting (the bent piece). I had to tap my helix cans with a 3/8 NPT tap in order to fit the adaptors so you might have to do the same. Oh, and another thing: why stop at a 90 degree fitting? See if you can ultilize a 180 degree or a 120 degree depending on the setup and placement of the can. In my case I think I could squeeze in a 120 degree fitting. That would allow the hoses to run directly over one of the cans instead of looping around. The only problem is that I don't know if it would clear the hood.

Also, what kind of can are you going to get? If you are going to run the can that intersects the line b/t the PCV valve and the intake manifold it had better be fairly sturdy. The can will see ~ -20 mm Hg as well as whatever maximum boost you're running (~22 psi in my case). The perrin can when hooked up in this position will slightly inflate under boost but will literally collapse while seeing the ~ -20 mm Hg of vacuum. My friend (syrihl on this board) who had this setup eventually had to stick something inside of the can to prevent the collapse (piece of PVC pipe). My helix can started to leak oil from around the rubber gaskets while under boost. I fixed it by replacing the rubber gaskets with some silicone gasket maker. So far so good.

 

So which oil catch can should I get?

 

Denial is the only one here who is getting the most use out of his catch can. Most of you includeding myself should have just saved the $75-$90 and bought a breather filter.

Denial can you post any more pictures? I want to see where all your hoses go. Thanks

 

Man I have no idea. Just look around. The only ones I've seen/tried are the helix and the perrin cans (which I've addressed in the post above). If you hook them up in the "normal" position, then they all should work just fine. It's only when you hook them up in b/t the PCV valve and the intake manifold you start getting possible problems.

Sure, I'll try and snap a few this afternoon.

 

I think I will source out some braided steel lines and use the $12 Campbell Hausfeld mini general purpose filters used here. https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...hlight=tractor What do you think? I will also feel better having the the filter for inbetween the pcv and intake manilfold closer to that location. I will probably run some high quality rubber fuel line at first to make sure all works out before I make the investment for the steel braided stuff. I wonder if I should use the little filter elements that come with these mini filters or remove them and add some steel wool in side of the catch.