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Old Nov 25, 2004 | 04:31 PM
  #61  
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From: Knoxville
Originally Posted by mitsuorder
I think I will source out some braided steel lines and use the $12 Campbell Hausfeld mini general purpose filters used here. https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...hlight=tractor What do you think? I will also feel better having the the filter for inbetween the pcv and intake manilfold closer to that location. I will probably run some high quality rubber fuel line at first to make sure all works out before I make the investment for the steel braided stuff. I wonder if I should use the little filter elements that come with these mini filters or remove them and add some steel wool in side of the catch.
It looks really good. It might fill up somewhat quickly, but that's only a minor drawback (especially for so little $$$). Honestly though I don't think you really need steel lines. It's overkill honestly. Good thick rubber fuel lines should be plenty. just make sure that they don't collapse on themselves/expand significantly under vacuum and boost. In my case I never planned on spending so much time/money on it. It was just one of those projects that kinda took off...100 dollars later.

I heard somewhere that steel wool could possible deteriorate over time. So just in case that might be true, I put some chicken wire in my can to give the oily mixture some more surface area to condense on. As to whether or not you should leave the filter in, I have no idea. PM some people with this setup and ask them how it has been working out long term.

Good luck with it all and post some pics!!
Old Nov 25, 2004 | 04:36 PM
  #62  
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From: Knoxville
More pictures. Also, lil'evil_evo check out that thread mitsuorder posted for some more pics.





It was very difficult to get a picture of where the other hose meets to the intake manifold. Just look at your car, find the PCV valve, and follow it back.
Old Nov 25, 2004 | 04:37 PM
  #63  
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Yeah, if I were going with one of the nice catch cans then I would probably do the braided steel line but since these mini filters aren't exactly underhood bling .lol. I will probably be routing the lines in stealthy areas anyway. Tomorrow I will pick up all necessary fittings from NAPA along with the required hose and will do some research as to what might be a good catch material inside the cans. I'll let you guys know what I come up with and will take some pics if you can even see the cans after I'm done.
Old Nov 25, 2004 | 06:13 PM
  #64  
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Thanks for the pictures that is what I wanted
Old Nov 25, 2004 | 09:48 PM
  #65  
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I don't understand, how is denali the only one using his oil catch can correctly? Isn't he running 2 of them?
Old Nov 25, 2004 | 10:31 PM
  #66  
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From: Chi town
Just ordered the ARC can will post pics when mounted and installed. Question, do i need to drain the oil before installing this item.
Old Nov 26, 2004 | 12:20 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by nemesis
Question, do i need to drain the oil before installing this item.
no, not at all.
Old Nov 26, 2004 | 12:59 AM
  #68  
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OT, sorry. Nemesis, who is the girl in your avatar?
Old Nov 26, 2004 | 01:43 PM
  #69  
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From: bah
ok here are some UPDATED pics....i installed a new battery relocate mount....and cleaned up some wiring....and nitrous plumbing....enjoy.







Old Nov 26, 2004 | 10:38 PM
  #70  
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From: Concord
http://www.swagelok.com/



http://www.swagelok.com/category.asp...pDesc=Fittings

I made a complete breather and full-flow oiling system out of these exact components for an engine I built some years ago. They're the absolute best of the best and used mostly at refineries, power plants, etc.

You can get seamless stainless steel tubing that will withstand thousands of PSI and never leak a drip. You can also polish the tubing/fittings. They're super tough and don't get scratched up like that anodized (IMO) junk.

Best of all is that once you bend the tubing and get the whole setup built, it's very easy to take apart and put back together. No stupid hose clams, hoses, or zip ties. Everything is sturdy and can be unbolted and rebolted into place easily, as well as be adapted to hydraulic (or other) hoses where flexibility is required.

It's way overkill, but if I do a breather system on my Evo, this is how I plan to do it.

Last edited by Turbocake; Nov 26, 2004 at 10:41 PM.
Old Nov 26, 2004 | 10:42 PM
  #71  
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How do you bend the tubing?
Old Nov 26, 2004 | 10:47 PM
  #72  
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With a tubing bender... but a good quality one. It needs long handles and to not drag on the outer radius of the tubing as it will mark it up (mattered to me).

It also needs long handles for leverage, as the .5" ID tubing was no joke.
Old Nov 26, 2004 | 10:53 PM
  #73  
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hmm... you have any pics. They have a local place that has there stuff, I';m thinking about going to check them out.
Old Nov 26, 2004 | 10:53 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by Turbocake
http://www.swagelok.com/



http://www.swagelok.com/category.asp...pDesc=Fittings

I made a complete breather and full-flow oiling system out of these exact components for an engine I built some years ago. They're the absolute best of the best and used mostly at refineries, power plants, etc.

You can get seamless stainless steel tubing that will withstand thousands of PSI and never leak a drip. You can also polish the tubing/fittings. They're super tough and don't get scratched up like that anodized (IMO) junk.

Best of all is that once you bend the tubing and get the whole setup built, it's very easy to take apart and put back together. No stupid hose clams, hoses, or zip ties. Everything is sturdy and can be unbolted and rebolted into place easily, as well as be adapted to hydraulic (or other) hoses where flexibility is required.

It's way overkill, but if I do a breather system on my Evo, this is how I plan to do it.
If you build a breather system using solid tubing with the catch can mounted in the engine bay somewhere, won't you need some flex in the tubing to allow for engine movement?

The swagelok fittings rock. I design gas delivery systems using their VCR fittings. Good stuff.
Old Nov 26, 2004 | 11:46 PM
  #75  
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From: Concord
marksae:

If you build a breather system using solid tubing with the catch can mounted in the engine bay somewhere, won't you need some flex in the tubing to allow for engine movement?
From my initial description post:

"Everything is sturdy and can be unbolted and rebolted into place easily, as well as be adapted to hydraulic (or other) hoses where flexibility is required."

You could also fabricate a box that will mount on the engine itself and avoid the issue altogether. If you don't want to make it just have a local welding shop build you a box. It's a BOX, not a satellite. Hundreds of dollars for these things is unbelievable (!!).



BADEVO:

I don't have any pics. I built that engine 10 years ago and digicams weren't exactly popular then


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