Just to be clear about this. Do you want to hear the bass outside your car with the windows up or down?

 

I agree with v8Killer.

Do realize that the more bass that leaks from your trunk, the less bass you will feel/hear in the cab. But in essence the more bass in the cab, the more bass that can be heard out of the car. Take the best of both worlds and get a ton of bass inside and out. My suggestion to you is make sure your boxes were made correctly. Make sure you have plent of power (watts) and have them facing the direction you want. Some subs hit better firing away and others better towards you. The stuff in our trunks shouldn't be sound deadening enough to make a difference. Dynamat does help though for about 2-4+ db which will help a ton as others have stated.

As a side note: I have had my fair share of 150+db system (hint the name for DrBump) Push 4 12" woofers with 2000 watts and people over a mile away could hear my ride. Shake things off of walls and flex the front windshield of my car. 2 12" woofers tied to an 18" woofer scares people as well. Sitting in the back seat of my car most people are unable to even swallow with so much bass and vibration. heheheh. I would have had to weld my trunk shut for it not to rattle.

Your style is what you want and if you want to be loud you better have a ton of power. I would take better amps over better subs any day of the week. But the combination of both can be deafening, literally.

Just my $0.02

 

HS! Pics?

 

unfortunatley I am no camera guy. I will have to look and see if there are any lying around. I will give you a past history of the systems. (I floated through a lot)

2 - 12" Kickers w/ 500 Watts then
4 - 12" Kickers w/ 2000 Watts then (Friend 2 doors down and across the street said it was Jurassic Park everyday eating his cereal before school when I left)
2 - 12" Kickers w/ 1 - 18" Kicker w/ 2500 Watts then
2 - 15" Kickers w/ 1500 Watts

I will see if I can't find any though.

 

okay, there's like 3 guys on this thread that actually know something and contributed something usefull...

1st off, there's not much of an effective mod to increase the bass outside your car except rolling down the windows. if you want to be heard, it's going to be a direct function of how loud it is inside the car... now please don't confuse this with trunk panels and fenders rattling like those 86 caprice classics w/a trunk full a 18s. in that case, use dynamat. if you have panels that rattle, mass loading is the only way to cure that. now as far as keeping sound inside the car, that's a different science all together. if you're interested in that, i can go into that more later.

just to clear somethings up. sound deadening can be pulled up, whether it be factory, or aftermarket. even the spray on stuff can be taken off with a little effort.

sound deadening will not increase your effective spl by any amount...what it will do is lower your noise floor(reduce the road noise entering the cabin), which allows the stereo to not work as hard, while producing the desired effect.

I'm not about to start an argument over this... but this is just fyi... adding more subs and more amps to get more low end... is like swapping out your 4g63 for a V8, more isn't always better, as we all know...

1. more subs=more chances of standing waves, more chances for box resonation, more weight, usually more amplifier power required, and many times it will alter the freq. the box is tuned too because of the ratio of trunk volume to enclosure volume (in extreme cases) creating an undesired bandpass effect.

2. more amplifier power=more chances for noise to enter your system, more stress on your alternator, more stress on your battery, and more stress on the car's electronics because of the voltage drops. and what many people don't realize, is that you need power in to get power out, i'm not going to get into the specifics of this, but more power, is not always better.

3. bass is omnidirectional, and is a direct function of the enclosure... alot of shops don't like to bring this up, because they make money on amps and subs, not on enclosures. the box will make or break your system. a single sub in a tuned enclosure, will always sound better then 2 in a sealed enclosure...

anyone that tries to flame me on this, can come to my house and try me in person...i don't care who you know or what they've done. I've been an audiofile for almost 10 years...competed many times, spl, sq, and slap, and i've done it all... now if you want to be proactive, and are curious about enclosure design, and acoustics, i'd be more then happy to bounce a few ideas off of you. my goal on this forum, and any forum, is to be productive and spread usefull information...not argue with people...

 

this one is a quick fix in my book
reach down and pull up the lever on the left side for the trunk release
bam problem solved

 

What a bunch of asshats....you guys are so bored with your pathetic lives that you have to bash on a newbie who asks a serious question. This is the reason why you have to wade through dozens of crappy posts just to search for something useful.

 

Lets see, my friend has 2 12" MTX 6000's and 3 10" MTX 4000's in an extended cab ford ranger. The boxes take up every inch of the cab behind the rear seats. There isnt a thing that doesn't rattle on his truck. Just get a lotta sh*t to hear it outside the car.

If you wanna get really innovative, weld your trunk shut, take out the rear seat, mount 2 15" L7's and 2 1000W kicker amps where they were, and mold in some kind of fiberglass window into the trunk to make a giant bandpass box. People will hear for miles around and you will be happy

 

this thread was doomed from the beginning. telling him how to remove the sound deadening from his trunk is telling him how to make his car sound worse.

that's like someone asking how to make more boost in his car, and telling him to pull the little hose off his wastegate actuator.

while some people choose to ridicule someone for asking a nub question... that's something you'll get reguardless, people are inherently a$$holes on the net. I suppose a good way to stop it would be moderators killing stupid, off topic, and flaming posts from the beginning...but it's not like that's the easiest either.

 

This has to be a joke...

Good systems are meant for sound quality in the car no system is going to sound good outside the car so why in the world would you want to blast noise out of your car?? sound belongs inside.

You give us evo owners a bad name when you attempt to rice them out like a freakin POS honda. If you want a noisy rattle can car strip out everything add tons of carbon fiber loosen a few bolts and run 2000 watts to a couple of 15" woofers don't bother with the other speakers cause you wont hear them over the rattle your car makes anyway

: : :

 

All i have to say is wow, who does this to a performance car. This is an evo we are talking about not a civic or SUV. This thread is going no where

 

EVO=performance, system=rice

 

Ummm, how does putting a nice system in an Evo equal rice? I've bashed the guy a few times about wanting to have enough bass to blow out the windows of nearby cars, but seriously, who are you to say that it's "rice" to put subs in an Evo. Does everyone who buys an Evo want it for the track and takes off every unnecessary part to save weight? No. Do you? Probly not. Some people want a nice, fast, cool lookin car to drive everyday and would like the stereo to sound good as well. So stfu about yelling rice every time someone does something to an Evo that doesn't improve performance. This is the show and shine forum, not autoX or performance.

 

i just bought the evo... haven't tried the stereo yet.. lol... car at home, me miles away in college. is the stock one really that bad????

 

its rice to have a really nice system