JuancaROD

iTrader: (5)

I'm about to replace the whole SSL system, but before doing it I need some help. I read somewhere that all speaker wires come from the amp under the driver seat. Even the tweeters are wired directly to this location, so I assume that the stock amp is doing a crossover job as well as powering all speakers. If so, I can run wires from my aftermarket amp (MB Quart RAA4200) on the trunk to under the driver seat, and from there use the stock wiring. Also, since the tweeters are wired to the stock amp position, I can place both aftermarket crossovers (front will be Polk Momo MMC6500 components and rears Polk Momo MMC650) under the driver seat. Does everything sounds OK so far?

Basically I don't want to rewire the whole car, and running speaker cables from the trunk to under the driver seat is an easy and quick solution. I will run patch cables from the head unit (Premier DEH-P940MP) to both amps on the trunk (the other amp is an Alpine mono class, I forgot the model number), and I have a 10" DVC sub (Alpine, forgot the model number again) already enclosed on a sealed box. I'll have a 2-ga power RF wire running from the battery into a Knukonceptz distribution block on the trunk, and 2-ga ground RF wire also using a distribution block. With this setup should I install a capacitor? If so, what would be a good one?

I'm planning on doing this installation myself this weekend, I hope it won't take me more than 3 hours! Am I missing something before starting to tear the sound system apart? Am I right on my stock wiring theory? Also, I think I may need spacers for the front components (otherwise they won't clear the glass/window), does Circuit City or Best Buy carry 6.5" spacers?

Thanks in advance for any help.

stiklr

iTrader: (2)

I dont know about the SSL package. But I wouldn't use the stock thin speaker wires. I would upgrade the wires to a larger guage since you will be pushing some wattage. You are already running power and rca cables from the front to the trunk, u might as well run some speaker wires. The front and rear speaker openings are 6.75 inchs. I used 3/4" Mdf board and made my own spacers. I have Boston comps, and they barely clear the window.
I have a Xstatic Batcap 300, which is a battery/cap, and I have a memphis amp pushing 1000w@ 1 ohm and the Batcap produces planty of juice.
Good Luck.

eclipseownzu

I did exactally what you are describing for my install. The stock wireing is 14ga I think, and should be fine. Without the specs of the mono amp I cant tell you if you will need a cap, but since you are only running a singe 10 I would highly doubt it.
You will know pretty quickly if you need a cap however, if the bass makes your lights dim, you should get one. It sounds like you have a pretty good plan, you should be good to go.

JuancaROD

iTrader: (5)

That's what I want to hear!!!

I think the SSL wiring should be pretty thick because Mitsu claims to pump 315W on the SSL package.

The Polk Momos come with 0.5" spacers, so I shouldn't have problems with the window. On the other hand they also provide adapters for 6.5"/6.75" openings, another problem solved.

I'll see how everything goes without the cap, and if I need one I'll get a 1-farad cap.

JuancaROD

iTrader: (5)

eclipseownzu, do you have a diagram for the speaker harness under the driver's seat? I'd rather start with a diagram than tracing all wires with my multimeter.

Thanks.