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Old Mar 1, 2006, 12:56 PM
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Paint touch up question.

I purchased one of those OEM paint touch up pens and I was wondering if anyone had any advice for the application of it cause I don't want to make it look like "chocolate chips" as I remember reading in another post.
Old Mar 1, 2006, 01:11 PM
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I'll just tell you what I did. I used a fine tipped brush from an art store, and from that I even cut away at least half of the bristles so I had a super fine tip. I dabbed the pen on a piece of aluminum foil until i got the paint flowing. Dip the tip of the brush into the paint.

Some say let your wife/girlfriend do it because she has practice doing her nails. It does take a steady hand.
Old Mar 1, 2006, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by coffeeslug
I'll just tell you what I did. I used a fine tipped brush from an art store, and from that I even cut away at least half of the bristles so I had a super fine tip. I dabbed the pen on a piece of aluminum foil until i got the paint flowing. Dip the tip of the brush into the paint.

Some say let your wife/girlfriend do it because she has practice doing her nails. It does take a steady hand.
Same for the clear coat side of the pen too?
Old Mar 1, 2006, 10:28 PM
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when you apply pressure to the head liquid comes out, its pretty simple.
Old Mar 1, 2006, 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by coffeeslug
I'll just tell you what I did. I used a fine tipped brush from an art store, and from that I even cut away at least half of the bristles so I had a super fine tip. I dabbed the pen on a piece of aluminum foil until i got the paint flowing. Dip the tip of the brush into the paint.

Some say let your wife/girlfriend do it because she has practice doing her nails. It does take a steady hand.
i do the same thing
Old Mar 1, 2006, 11:20 PM
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Those pens are a pain! I used one to fix up a few chips on the hood. The paint side isn't so bad the clear side is the one that doesn't like to flow as nice. The "dab" unto foil and then transfer is a good trick and similiar to what I used.
Old Mar 1, 2006, 11:43 PM
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after you apply the touch up paint and when totally dry, if its a "lump" you can always take 2000 grit sand paper and lightly wetsand it smooth, then rub out the scratches. It should give you a near perfect (as good as touch up can be) fill.
Old Mar 2, 2006, 07:07 PM
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You actually want the touch-up paint abit higher than the current paint. I use a 3m rubbing compound (or fine grit sand paper) on the area untill its all even. Then just wax and buff.
Old Mar 2, 2006, 08:47 PM
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the pens suck, but lump it on and then smooth it out.. it looks better than trying to do it with just the pen. the brush idea isn't a bad one either. mine didn't turn out too bad but i might redo it.
Old Mar 6, 2006, 02:24 PM
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I use a toothpick and dab the paint on the chip. works great.
Old Mar 6, 2006, 11:03 PM
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they only sell the pens at the stealership? or you can also get the bottles?
Old Mar 6, 2006, 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by donmeca2020
they only sell the pens at the stealership? or you can also get the bottles?
Mine only offered the pens. I'm assuming the rest do the same.
Old Mar 6, 2006, 11:19 PM
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CHIP & SCRATCH REPAIR
You'd be hard pressed to find a car on the road that does not have paint chips and parking lot scratches. While good detailing practices can't prevent nicks and scratches, repairing them will restore your car's "like new" appearance. In this section, I'll describe the methods I've used for years to repair chips and minor scratches.

What's Possible and What Isn't
Touching up small nicks and scratches is well within the skill level of most do-it-yourself car enthusiasts. Some nicks can be quickly repaired with a small dab of touch-up paint, while others will require more time, effort and skill. It's important to know what you should and shouldn't tackle, based on your knowledge of paint and tools.

By far the easiest colors to repair are black and white. Black and white are very forgiving on shade variations. Conversely, metallic paints (those with metal flakes) can be quite difficult to match perfectly.

This is a medium scratch. You will be able to feel it with your fingernail, but it does not go through to the primer. The best way to fix this kind of scratch is to round down the edges using a medium-grit rubbing compound, and bring back full gloss with a good polish.



Before you get started repairing nicks and scratches, you should know what to expect. Small nicks are easy to repair by filling the nick with paint, leveling the filled area, and buffing the repair area to blend and restore luster. Repairing small scratches, as from a key or shopping cart, is similar, but more time consuming. Fixing a ding (a small dent which may or may not have taken a nick out of the paint) is not usually possible for the do-it-yourselfer.



Deep scratches and chips that go through the color coat into the primer or down to the metal can only be repaired using touch-up paint.



Here are some other things you should know:
  1. If you know your car's factory paint code, you can purchase an exact color match touch-up paint from your local dealer. If you don't know the factory paint code, look in your owner's manual for the location of the code, or ask your dealer. If you have a late model car, chances are you will find a color match at your local auto parts store.
  2. Use a small artist's paintbrush (#2 is ideal) or a round wooden toothpick to apply the touch-up paint, not the fat brush included with the bottle of touch-up paint.
  3. Always test the touch-up paint for color matching in an inconspicuous area.
  4. The area to be repaired must be perfectly clean and free of wax, rust and oils.
  5. Don't attempt a touch-up if the temperature is below 60 degrees (Fahrenheit).
Here's what you need to properly repair nicks and scratches:
  1. Color-matched touch-up paint (Try Paint Scratch.)
  2. Automotive or metal primer (only required if you have exposed metal)
  3. Dawn dish-washing liquid
  4. Prep solvent (Prepsol) or denatured alcohol
  5. Foam swabs (from electronics supply) or pop swabs containing alcohol
  6. Sanding block and 1500- or 2000-grit wet and dry sand paper (A rectangular rubber school eraser makes a good sanding block for small touchups.)
  7. Fine cut rubbing compound
  8. Artist's paintbrush (#2) and round toothpicks (plastic)
  9. Cotton terry cloth towels
  10. New pencils with unused erasers
  11. Rubber cement
  12. Plastic cups
  13. Blue masking tape (easy-release type)
  14. Large-diameter paper hole punch (hand type)
Old Mar 6, 2006, 11:20 PM
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Preparation Process
Before applying paint, you must prepare the chip to accept paint. Although paint may adhere for a while to a chip with rust, dirt or oil, eventually the repair will fail. The preparation process begins the day before you repair the paint chips and scratches.

The afternoon before starting your chip repairs, wash your car with Dawn dish-washing detergent to remove all wax and silicone from your paint. Dry your car thoroughly and put it away for the night.

After washing your car, make up several sanding pencils. Use a hole punch to punch out a few dots from the 1200-grit wet and dry sandpaper. Apply the sandpaper dots to the ends of your pencil erasers with rubber cement. Allow them to dry overnight. You will use the sanding pencils to scuff up and clean out nicks.

To make a chip ready for touch-up paint, you must make sure it does not have loose edges, and then clean it and sand it. I use a toothpick to check the edges of a chip. If the edges are loose or lifted, I use the toothpick to knock off the loose paint. To clean, I like to use denatured alcohol or Prepsol and a foam swab. I pour a little bit into a plastic cup and use a foam swab to clean the chip and surrounding area.

Next, I use a sanding pencil to clean out the chip and rough up the edges. Simply dip the sanding pencil into a cup of clean water, dab a few drops of water on the chip, and gently rotate the sanding pencil over the chip. Keep the area you sand as small as possible. Rotating the sanding pencil back and forth in your fingers 8 to 10 times should be enough to do the job. If the chip has exposed bare metal, or if you can see rust forming, use the edge of the pencil eraser to remove the rust. When you finish sanding the chip, dry it with a terry cloth towel, and clean it again with Prepsol and a foam swab.



Applying Touch-up Paint
Old Mar 6, 2006, 11:22 PM
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Once the damaged areas are cleaned and prepared, you can begin the touch-up itself. If a chip exposed bare metal, you must primer the chip before the color touch-up. After mixing thoroughly, pour or spray a small amount of your primer into a plastic cup. Next, use a clean toothpick to apply the primer. I do this by dipping just the tip (2 to 3 mm) of the toothpick into the primer. If I get a blob, I wipe it back.

Next, I touch the tip of the toothpick to the center of the chip and allow the paint to flow off of the toothpick into the chip. You will be amazed how well the capillary action works. If you prefer, you can use the #2 artist's brush. Do not allow the primer to overflow the sides of the chip. Allow the primer to dry for 2 or -3 hours. You can speed dry the primer with a hair dryer after allowing it to air dry for one hour. Simply wave the hair dryer 3 to 4 inches over the primered chip for 30 to 40 seconds. Do not touch the chips with your hands, as the oils from your skin will prevent the color coat from adhering.

Now, mix your color-matched paint thoroughly, and pour a small amount into a clean plastic cup. As with the primer, use a clean toothpick or #2 artist's brush to apply the color coat. Touch the toothpick or brush to the center of the chip, and allow capillary action to pull the paint into the chip. Apply a small dab at a time, and allow it to dry for 2 to 3 hours. You must repeat this process several times, so don't try to fill the chip in one pass. Applying several thin layers will produce much better results.

The color touch-up process is complete when you have applied enough coats to slightly overfill the chip onto the roughed-up area surrounding the chip. Once you've filled the chip, allow it to dry for another 24 to 48 hours; the longer, the better.

I'm often asked if it's necessary to apply a clearcoat over chip repairs. I don't think it's necessary or adds any noticeable difference. If you get the proper touch-up paint from your dealer, it will match without using a clearcoat. However, if you're a purist in pursuit of perfection, substitute a clearcoat for the last 2 or 3 coats.



Here is a close-up picture of a scratch after it has been repaired with touch-up paint. The touch-up creates a raised surface. In order to perfect the repair, the raised touch-up paint must be leveled. I will use 1500-grit sandpaper to level the repair. If you are new to wet sanding, use 2000- or 2500-grit paper.


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