Which HID 6000? or 4300?
Jun 25, 2006, 12:18 AM
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Which HID 6000? or 4300?
Hi guys im panning on getting an HId kit and ive already decided that im probably going to get the HID kit from XENON depot (btw does anyone ahve this installed on their evo IX? if so how is it?)
I cant decide should i go 4300 or 6000? does 4300 look HID enough? or is 6000 more true HID looking? please help me out i would like to get the kit soon but cant decide which
I cant decide should i go 4300 or 6000? does 4300 look HID enough? or is 6000 more true HID looking? please help me out i would like to get the kit soon but cant decide which
Jun 25, 2006, 12:29 AM
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4300 = better vision and white light
6000 = decent vision and blue light
6000 looks better in my opinion, but it depends on what your shooting for, looks or function??! :-)
6000 = decent vision and blue light
6000 looks better in my opinion, but it depends on what your shooting for, looks or function??! :-)
Jun 25, 2006, 12:41 AM
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I thoguth only MR's had HID but turns out the GSR with SSl package has HID's too and when i bought my gsr i didnt know that so i have no HID's and im a big fan of hids so i need the HID i still dont know 4300 or 6000... is 6000 light significantly worse? and if it is worse is it at least better then my halogens? this is such a hard decision does 4300 even look HID though?
Jun 25, 2006, 01:08 AM
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6000 will look better as it's more blue. but oem HID's are 4300k.....
lower kelvin gives better output, though less blue so i guess less cool looking...
i'm running 5300k's on mine
lower kelvin gives better output, though less blue so i guess less cool looking...
i'm running 5300k's on mine
Jun 25, 2006, 04:01 AM
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Hello hello...I just did this conversion on my Graphite IX...A friend of mine works on and off for different audio installers and tune shops...He has installed a good 50 or so of these kits and knocked it out in literally one and a half hours...You can read up on the how-to's, they have entirely too many threads...The biggest problem that you will run into is 'where to mount the ballasts?'...The "best" way to do it is to drill into the frame-rails, but be cautious (I find it too scary, myself. Also, that area that you drill into will_rust_unless_you_spray with spray paint)...What we wound up doing is some 3M heavy duty double-sided sticky foam with zip ties to secure (unknown where, he put it this place because he said if I were to get in a wreck, I could save the kit)...Once again, as I did not do the install myself, I cannot go into specific mounting points...A considerable ammount of parts do however need to come off to do this conversion....
For me: front bumper, the stock radiator cooling panel, air box guide
As for the kit, I purchased Xenondepot.com's 4300K HID conversion kit...Now, my idea was to get the best light output possible, I want these to be really functional!!!...The good things about this kit are that it includes an infinite ammount of line, seriously a rediculous ammount!! I thought to myself "well, Phillips is the brand they use, and it runs the same amperage as the stock unit, it has to put out the same light"______Yes and no: I have been in the HID equipped Evolutions and I can say if their output is a 10/10, mine may be a 8.5
HOWEVER, if you want to be risky, there are a ton of alternative kits. This means running a set of lights that do not run at stock amperage, you may fry wiring harnesses and things of that nature. I am happy to have the improvement, but I honestly expected more....I know how bad my thread sucks without pictures to show just how bright, but I really wanted them to look like the lights posted here. https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=207716
Draw power for the kit however you choose, personally I ran through the fuse box. Xenondepot.com ships out of Canada, 3-day for Louisiana (quick!!). All said and done, my kit ran $405 (I believe that is exact price). It is more expensive than others, but really you get what you pay for!! I did a lot of research before blowing my wad on some Taiwan 3rd party shytiya. I have the confidence knowing that my kit won't take out a wiring harness. Bulbs are random, as you know, and these kits make it easy to replace them should you want to downgrade to higher-K or replace a bulb when they burnout. Either Kelvin kit, you will see a noticeable improvement over the factory-equipped halogen lighting. If I could do it all again, I would pick the same setup. Even though that linked McCulloch looks awesomeee. If you have any questions, PM me and I'll be happy to respond.
Oh, and by the way, those plastic bumper clips are effing expensive. DO_NOT_PRY_WITH_A_SCREWDRIVER, had my friend not had his fish-hook looking tool, I would have found myself at the dealer buying a 20 pack of those replacement clips. Another good tip is keep all the bolts/clips in the HID box, that way you won't have to look around...Note the different sizes as well.
For me: front bumper, the stock radiator cooling panel, air box guide
As for the kit, I purchased Xenondepot.com's 4300K HID conversion kit...Now, my idea was to get the best light output possible, I want these to be really functional!!!...The good things about this kit are that it includes an infinite ammount of line, seriously a rediculous ammount!! I thought to myself "well, Phillips is the brand they use, and it runs the same amperage as the stock unit, it has to put out the same light"______Yes and no: I have been in the HID equipped Evolutions and I can say if their output is a 10/10, mine may be a 8.5
HOWEVER, if you want to be risky, there are a ton of alternative kits. This means running a set of lights that do not run at stock amperage, you may fry wiring harnesses and things of that nature. I am happy to have the improvement, but I honestly expected more....I know how bad my thread sucks without pictures to show just how bright, but I really wanted them to look like the lights posted here. https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=207716
Draw power for the kit however you choose, personally I ran through the fuse box. Xenondepot.com ships out of Canada, 3-day for Louisiana (quick!!). All said and done, my kit ran $405 (I believe that is exact price). It is more expensive than others, but really you get what you pay for!! I did a lot of research before blowing my wad on some Taiwan 3rd party shytiya. I have the confidence knowing that my kit won't take out a wiring harness. Bulbs are random, as you know, and these kits make it easy to replace them should you want to downgrade to higher-K or replace a bulb when they burnout. Either Kelvin kit, you will see a noticeable improvement over the factory-equipped halogen lighting. If I could do it all again, I would pick the same setup. Even though that linked McCulloch looks awesomeee. If you have any questions, PM me and I'll be happy to respond.
Oh, and by the way, those plastic bumper clips are effing expensive. DO_NOT_PRY_WITH_A_SCREWDRIVER, had my friend not had his fish-hook looking tool, I would have found myself at the dealer buying a 20 pack of those replacement clips. Another good tip is keep all the bolts/clips in the HID box, that way you won't have to look around...Note the different sizes as well.
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Jun 25, 2006, 06:18 AM
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i've got the xenondepot 4300k kit on my evo 9. i'm disappointed b/c it's very dull.
output is basically yellowish. i had the xenondepot 6000k one before on my dc5r and it was alot brighter and whiter than this.
as u can see from on e of the photos below u basically can't see a thing on the road it's worst than my halogaen globe
output is basically yellowish. i had the xenondepot 6000k one before on my dc5r and it was alot brighter and whiter than this.
as u can see from on e of the photos below u basically can't see a thing on the road it's worst than my halogaen globe
Jun 25, 2006, 09:03 AM
#11
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^^^^That is not true^^^^^
Above 6000K is more for show and much less functional. Stock OEM systems for all cars is going to be around 4100-4300K that is closest to true sunlight. If you want a good compromise between "show and go" 6000K would be fine. This question comes up regularly. There a lot of threads that you can read if you search.
Above 6000K is more for show and much less functional. Stock OEM systems for all cars is going to be around 4100-4300K that is closest to true sunlight. If you want a good compromise between "show and go" 6000K would be fine. This question comes up regularly. There a lot of threads that you can read if you search.
Last edited by GPTourer; Jun 25, 2006 at 09:07 AM.
Jun 25, 2006, 09:14 AM
#12
Originally Posted by GPTourer
^^^^That is not true^^^^^
Above 6000K is more for show and much less functional. Stock OEM systems for all cars is going to be around 4100-4300K that is closest to true sunlight. If you want a good compromise between "show and go" 6000K would be fine. This question comes up regularly. There a lot of threads that you can read if you search.
Above 6000K is more for show and much less functional. Stock OEM systems for all cars is going to be around 4100-4300K that is closest to true sunlight. If you want a good compromise between "show and go" 6000K would be fine. This question comes up regularly. There a lot of threads that you can read if you search.
Jun 25, 2006, 09:27 AM
#13
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But it is not my "opinion" that 4100K is better for visibility, like it is your opinion that 8000K is better. It is a fact that 4100K is what the OEMs use because it produces more lumens.
