Hopefully I'll have some dyno numbers to back up the road dyno.. The 17psi numbers are in the mid 400's at this point.. Torque is kinda low though, but thats likely due to my conservative timing and tuning..

 

+1

 

Everyone says that about the wheels.. Which is a good thing, it means I won't have to worry about them getting stolen.. Their purely there for function, I would have otherwise kept the stockers, but their 18x9 and I do need to put as much tire to the ground as possible.

I'm just not into "JDM" I don't particularly like anything available out there for the car. There are some nice wheels, but there is no way I'm spending over $2k for a set of wheels just for people to drool over. Now I can just go under the radar, which is what the car was built for.

 

Ahh, I have a correction to make.. I was making only 15psi of boost the last time out, the numbers were way off, but the car made torque that never fell off, which explained the high HP numbers and low torque reading. I did another run at 1.2bar which was roughly 18psi and it woke the car up a bit, but I didn't make much more HP, picked up some torque though. I think I have a fuel and timing map dialed in so I can safely turn the boost up to 21-25psi which is my target range for pump gas.. Once I get that I'll build my more aggressive timing maps, then step down the boost a few psi at a time and retune for those levels.. Once I have the different loads dialed in, I'll put my alky back in and do a higher boost test..

Though I don't know if I can do it, my goal is to break just over 600whp on the stock ECU.. The car already is just too quick to road tune anymore, I can't run it in a high enough gear to get good data (4th gear I need to run in at this point)

I do have some minor issues to address that I remembered..

1) I have the first gen buschur deluxe intercooler, It has a 2.25 inlet, I need to upgrade to a Race intercooler, either the Buschur or AMS in the near future.

2) Those damn VBand clamps on the turndown leak exhaust on and off, I'm sure its hurting the cars potential a bit.. Have to fix it as soon as possible.

3) Need to swap my COP setup back in, although the DLI2 and stock coils are doing just fine, I have to get a power transistor and put my COP setup back on to keep things in check when I go for some higher boost pulls.

4) Need to install the new alky kit, the old kit I had was purely mechanical (similar to the older snow performance one) I now have an SMC setup that will be somehow wired to my scramble boost feature on my boost controller.

a few other minor things like finishing a few basic functional cosmetics, Lowering, Probably use Struts instead of the lowering springs, and my APR Splitter.. Again, these are functional components for its intended purpose which is to make very high speed runs and I need the secure footing and downforce..

 

Jack,you are doing top speed run??

 

Yes, I will be getting some gearing when I redo my transmission and transfer case, 8000rpm redline and gears should be for some fun..

I don't really do top-speed runs often since organized events aren't local to me, but there are enough supras, z06's and cobras around here that are fun to beat up on.

This car will see some desert action in the near future..

 

I recall the cover on mine said .70

(had to finally give you the info..)

 

Love'n it.

 

hey malibu dont u have ecu flash how do u have speed density

 

That thing is bad ace!

 

I don't have speed density, I run a blowthrough MAF constructed of components from Pro-M and a Ford Cobra MAF sensor.

You can INDEED run speed density, there are 3 products (one discontinued) that are capable of converting speed density and still retaining the stock ECU. Too many people are brainwashed into thinking a standalone is the only "right way" to do this stuff..

In fact, I don't run speed density because speed density isn't the best technology for a daily driver, its pretty old school, and is used because its simpler to get set up.