Rota P45R Wheel thread!!
Feb 5, 2007 | 02:25 PM
#136
I was told 5mm works for some and not for others. I opted for the 8mm and in case, 5mm provides too little clearance that was too close for comfort.
Man you guys are seriously ****, lol. These wheels are made for the 350z, but fit the evo. Isn't verification of them fitting good enough? It's always going to be trial and error to make them work properly for your specific suspension setup. There is no magical equation that will fix everything. It requires trial and error of the following parameters (and then some) in this particular order:
1) change spring progression through corner balancing
2) static ride height
3) camber
4) caster
5) toe
Caster on our cars is already set at +3.6 which is pretty extreme already so need to change that. All these numbers will affect fitment in terms of rubbing or feathering of the wheels one way or another, static ride height and camber especially. Ie, increasing negative camber will allow one to run at a lower static ride height. For a "quick fix" one can increase negative camber by 0.5° all around as that should fix feathering all together. Of course, changing camber changes toe so be sure to follow the order of adjustments above.
Man you guys are seriously ****, lol. These wheels are made for the 350z, but fit the evo. Isn't verification of them fitting good enough? It's always going to be trial and error to make them work properly for your specific suspension setup. There is no magical equation that will fix everything. It requires trial and error of the following parameters (and then some) in this particular order:
1) change spring progression through corner balancing
2) static ride height
3) camber
4) caster
5) toe
Caster on our cars is already set at +3.6 which is pretty extreme already so need to change that. All these numbers will affect fitment in terms of rubbing or feathering of the wheels one way or another, static ride height and camber especially. Ie, increasing negative camber will allow one to run at a lower static ride height. For a "quick fix" one can increase negative camber by 0.5° all around as that should fix feathering all together. Of course, changing camber changes toe so be sure to follow the order of adjustments above.
Feb 5, 2007 | 03:45 PM
#137
I know there is not magic equation but when it comes to spending the money for rims and tires I want to make sure a head of time. Trial and error is not an option for me. I mean why even belong to these forums if you cant get info? And I actually gained a lot through PMs brought on by my posts so I am happy.
Feb 5, 2007 | 05:00 PM
#138
Really? Well can you please post up! Not to be a pain but I am **** when it comes to my car and this stretch shown here is just way too bad. And I dont want to run 265s if I dont have to as most say they barely rub, but still rub none the less. Also they cost a lot and throw crap all over the side of your car and I do not want to run mudflaps. Also, what brand/style of tire are you running? Some tires have thicker sidewalls that make the tire look wider when they really have the same 255mm contact patch. Thanks Bean!!
Feb 5, 2007 | 06:15 PM
#139
I was told 5mm works for some and not for others. I opted for the 8mm and in case, 5mm provides too little clearance that was too close for comfort.
Man you guys are seriously ****, lol. These wheels are made for the 350z, but fit the evo. Isn't verification of them fitting good enough? It's always going to be trial and error to make them work properly for your specific suspension setup. There is no magical equation that will fix everything. It requires trial and error of the following parameters (and then some) in this particular order:
1) change spring progression through corner balancing
2) static ride height
3) camber
4) caster
5) toe
Caster on our cars is already set at +3.6 which is pretty extreme already so need to change that. All these numbers will affect fitment in terms of rubbing or feathering of the wheels one way or another, static ride height and camber especially. Ie, increasing negative camber will allow one to run at a lower static ride height. For a "quick fix" one can increase negative camber by 0.5° all around as that should fix feathering all together. Of course, changing camber changes toe so be sure to follow the order of adjustments above.
Man you guys are seriously ****, lol. These wheels are made for the 350z, but fit the evo. Isn't verification of them fitting good enough? It's always going to be trial and error to make them work properly for your specific suspension setup. There is no magical equation that will fix everything. It requires trial and error of the following parameters (and then some) in this particular order:
1) change spring progression through corner balancing
2) static ride height
3) camber
4) caster
5) toe
Caster on our cars is already set at +3.6 which is pretty extreme already so need to change that. All these numbers will affect fitment in terms of rubbing or feathering of the wheels one way or another, static ride height and camber especially. Ie, increasing negative camber will allow one to run at a lower static ride height. For a "quick fix" one can increase negative camber by 0.5° all around as that should fix feathering all together. Of course, changing camber changes toe so be sure to follow the order of adjustments above.
I can find 5mm,10mm,20mm but not 8mm.
Are they evo hub-centric or universal type?
Feb 7, 2007 | 11:49 AM
#144
Feb 7, 2007 | 12:11 PM
#145
Feb 7, 2007 | 04:48 PM
#146
Feb 7, 2007 | 07:00 PM
#147
EVOtagger:
Not sure but on the thread I found those pics he said he was running 255/35R18s. I know I have seen 245/40R18 RT-615s on many ADVAN RGII and RS rims and they look way too narrow. But it seems 245s dont look too bad on these rims even though they are 1/2" wider than the ADVANS. Maybe it is just the shape of the wheel and the drop many of you guys are running that makes things look the way it does. I hope I see these in person at Carlisle this year and maybe some other places. It is probably a good idea to see anything in person before buying (if it is a big purchase).
Not sure but on the thread I found those pics he said he was running 255/35R18s. I know I have seen 245/40R18 RT-615s on many ADVAN RGII and RS rims and they look way too narrow. But it seems 245s dont look too bad on these rims even though they are 1/2" wider than the ADVANS. Maybe it is just the shape of the wheel and the drop many of you guys are running that makes things look the way it does. I hope I see these in person at Carlisle this year and maybe some other places. It is probably a good idea to see anything in person before buying (if it is a big purchase).
Feb 8, 2007 | 06:35 AM
#148
I believe it has a lot to do with brand of tire as well. Some tires will be wider than others even if the size on the tires is the same. I know BFG's run a little wider than most tires.
It's kind of like shoes. Some shoe companies sizes run smaller than other companies.
It's kind of like shoes. Some shoe companies sizes run smaller than other companies.
Feb 8, 2007 | 09:15 AM
#149
Well I think the whole thing is the amount of tread stays the same on all brands, or the contact patch if you want to call it that, but there are other factors that make the tire appear wider. One example could be varying thicknesses in sidewalls. That alone could make a tire wider but still have the same width tread as a tire that overall is narrower.
That is why I want to see pics! So I can find the right combo that looks right and is still totally functional without rubbing or throwing rocks up the side of your car or any problems.
That is why I want to see pics! So I can find the right combo that looks right and is still totally functional without rubbing or throwing rocks up the side of your car or any problems.
Feb 8, 2007 | 09:19 AM
#150
, from me of course