Polishing Stock UICP... Need help
Mar 2, 2007, 03:31 PM
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Polishing Stock UICP... Need help
So Im bored... had a bad day at work and I want to polish my stock UICP to relieve some stress. My question being, what would be the best thing to use to get this to a nice polished finish. I guess as far as products, what I would need, and a simple step by step process. I've never really done anything like this.. I dont have like a grinder or anything to work with... so Im gonna have to use some good ole elbow grease.
Thanks for your help in advance!
Thanks for your help in advance!
Mar 2, 2007, 04:10 PM
#4
This is from my friend.
Here's a quick run down of what I do. I start with 200 grit on aluminum taking out any pores, and casting flaws. get it as smooth as possible. Then keep moving up to 400, 600, 800 grit. When you are ready for 1000 grit you should be wet sanding at this point. Then go to 1200 grit, 1500, finish at 2000 grit. I use mother's mag and aluminum polish for the final shine.
Some people clear coat after thay are done to keep the lustor, I didnt and have to touch up the aluminum every now and them with the mothers to keep it a shiny.
A buffing wheel will really help though if you have large pieces like the intake manifold, but you still need to use the sandpaper first to cut down the aluminum to a smooth finish.
This was the method I used, but their are different ways of obtaining the same thing.
Heres a pic showing about the middle stage of my turbo housing compared to the old one. I used a stationary belt sander for starters, and then I believe I was on 200 grit by hand at that point.
Another pic with a quick buff from the mothers. I was at 1000 grit at that point an as you can see their was still plenty of fine lines to remove for a mirror shine.
I hand polished everything aluminum in my engine bay. It is no where near as shiny as chrome, but it is definetly better looking than what it was stock. My intake manifold was a PITFA.
I think chrome is a much better soltion for the show guys as you dont have to re-polish it, and it cleans up with windex and a paper towel. I would chrome my stuff if i was into shows as it makes cleaning up the engine bay much easier and faster.
One more, ****ty picture but it shows the 3" aluminum intake I made as well as my carbon fiber bracket.
Here's a quick run down of what I do. I start with 200 grit on aluminum taking out any pores, and casting flaws. get it as smooth as possible. Then keep moving up to 400, 600, 800 grit. When you are ready for 1000 grit you should be wet sanding at this point. Then go to 1200 grit, 1500, finish at 2000 grit. I use mother's mag and aluminum polish for the final shine.
Some people clear coat after thay are done to keep the lustor, I didnt and have to touch up the aluminum every now and them with the mothers to keep it a shiny.
A buffing wheel will really help though if you have large pieces like the intake manifold, but you still need to use the sandpaper first to cut down the aluminum to a smooth finish.
This was the method I used, but their are different ways of obtaining the same thing.
Heres a pic showing about the middle stage of my turbo housing compared to the old one. I used a stationary belt sander for starters, and then I believe I was on 200 grit by hand at that point.
Another pic with a quick buff from the mothers. I was at 1000 grit at that point an as you can see their was still plenty of fine lines to remove for a mirror shine.
I hand polished everything aluminum in my engine bay. It is no where near as shiny as chrome, but it is definetly better looking than what it was stock. My intake manifold was a PITFA.
I think chrome is a much better soltion for the show guys as you dont have to re-polish it, and it cleans up with windex and a paper towel. I would chrome my stuff if i was into shows as it makes cleaning up the engine bay much easier and faster.
One more, ****ty picture but it shows the 3" aluminum intake I made as well as my carbon fiber bracket.
Mar 2, 2007, 04:18 PM
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if the piping is smooth u can probably get away with steel wool it comes in diffrent course's. then finish it off with a good aluminum polish. i used the mothers powerball on a drill works nice for some easy quick buff action
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Apr 21, 2008, 02:09 PM
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this is from my friend.
Here's a quick run down of what i do. I start with 200 grit on aluminum taking out any pores, and casting flaws. Get it as smooth as possible. Then keep moving up to 400, 600, 800 grit. When you are ready for 1000 grit you should be wet sanding at this point. Then go to 1200 grit, 1500, finish at 2000 grit. I use mother's mag and aluminum polish for the final shine.
Some people clear coat after thay are done to keep the lustor, i didnt and have to touch up the aluminum every now and them with the mothers to keep it a shiny.
A buffing wheel will really help though if you have large pieces like the intake manifold, but you still need to use the sandpaper first to cut down the aluminum to a smooth finish.
This was the method i used, but their are different ways of obtaining the same thing.
Heres a pic showing about the middle stage of my turbo housing compared to the old one. I used a stationary belt sander for starters, and then i believe i was on 200 grit by hand at that point.
another pic with a quick buff from the mothers. I was at 1000 grit at that point an as you can see their was still plenty of fine lines to remove for a mirror shine.
i hand polished everything aluminum in my engine bay. It is no where near as shiny as chrome, but it is definetly better looking than what it was stock. My intake manifold was a pitfa.
i think chrome is a much better soltion for the show guys as you dont have to re-polish it, and it cleans up with windex and a paper towel. I would chrome my stuff if i was into shows as it makes cleaning up the engine bay much easier and faster.
One more, ****ty picture but it shows the 3" aluminum intake i made as well as my carbon fiber bracket.
Here's a quick run down of what i do. I start with 200 grit on aluminum taking out any pores, and casting flaws. Get it as smooth as possible. Then keep moving up to 400, 600, 800 grit. When you are ready for 1000 grit you should be wet sanding at this point. Then go to 1200 grit, 1500, finish at 2000 grit. I use mother's mag and aluminum polish for the final shine.
Some people clear coat after thay are done to keep the lustor, i didnt and have to touch up the aluminum every now and them with the mothers to keep it a shiny.
A buffing wheel will really help though if you have large pieces like the intake manifold, but you still need to use the sandpaper first to cut down the aluminum to a smooth finish.
This was the method i used, but their are different ways of obtaining the same thing.
Heres a pic showing about the middle stage of my turbo housing compared to the old one. I used a stationary belt sander for starters, and then i believe i was on 200 grit by hand at that point.
another pic with a quick buff from the mothers. I was at 1000 grit at that point an as you can see their was still plenty of fine lines to remove for a mirror shine.
i hand polished everything aluminum in my engine bay. It is no where near as shiny as chrome, but it is definetly better looking than what it was stock. My intake manifold was a pitfa.
i think chrome is a much better soltion for the show guys as you dont have to re-polish it, and it cleans up with windex and a paper towel. I would chrome my stuff if i was into shows as it makes cleaning up the engine bay much easier and faster.
One more, ****ty picture but it shows the 3" aluminum intake i made as well as my carbon fiber bracket.
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