Full Flat-Bottom Undertray EVO
#17
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looks pretty cool, I've been thinking about trying to get an undertray for mine. I just don't know of any that might fit with my ams turbo kit downpipe. also I'd have to have one that has a hole cut for the open wastegate. or just cut one myself. but this thing looks good
#19
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as for jack points the rear ones are accessible, that's were the stands are. Up front I always jack from the boxed frame, which is still usable although the side skirt is attached there, it's no problem. If you look at the first picture it shows a large window cut-out so jackstands are still usable on the body seam.
Last edited by jid2; Jun 15, 2008 at 02:43 PM.
#22
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As others have said you need to be aware of the additional heat this will retain. If you have the ability I'd get some louvers or NACA ducts in there.
Since we've gone to the splitter's on the front of our race cars (no undertray's even) the heat in the engine bay has increased dramatically. You seriously can't touch anything in the engine bay with out burning yourself.
You might want to throw some temp strips on things like the gas tank and driveline to see what temps they are reaching. Like these:
http://www.drypak.com/media/images/THERMAX-dist.pdf
Since we've gone to the splitter's on the front of our race cars (no undertray's even) the heat in the engine bay has increased dramatically. You seriously can't touch anything in the engine bay with out burning yourself.
You might want to throw some temp strips on things like the gas tank and driveline to see what temps they are reaching. Like these:
http://www.drypak.com/media/images/THERMAX-dist.pdf
#27
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Things are not far enough along for a price just yet. The side-skirts are pretty straight forward, they simply bolt on and require no modifications. I have a place that CNC's them and the fit and finish is fantastic, plus the pricing is decent. And I have a fancy way to ship them so it doesn't require freight, they can go UPS.
The center undertray is also a direct bolt-on, no mods required. But I don't see a way around freight shipping. I don't know if the volumes, ie. you guys buying them is enough to warrant having them built for me, it's hard to know. I could build them myself, with my tools, but the fit and finish wouldn't be what I typically like for production. Having them manufactured would be pretty expensive I fear.
And the extension to the APR splitter requires either welding on mounting point to the chassis braces, or me supplying new chassis braces. If I supplied the chassis bracing the price would be much higher.
Your guys thoughts?
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well thats easy even for me to answer... you want heat in the exhaust system because hot air has more velocity and therefore exits faster...and your t-case and tranny are still cooled down by the air coming through the front...very Simple....lol