i hope hes not welding fittings.. all you have to do is drill and tap. the valve covers made out of magnesium and is super easy to drill and tap. also only drill out the one side port like i did on mine, dont use 2 reliefs or you will push oil. mine fixed 100% every issue i had. i wouldnt delete the pcv, i left mine intact and i love how my car is now.. the dipstick dont budge and no more issues anywhere.

 

Sounds good...surgery is Friday and they said I can't drive or do sh*t for the next 5 days at least...but after that Ill just be sitting around for another 2.5 weeks...haha...so ill let you know...

Thanks Ali...While I'm out of work I may make a trip down to South Carolina so I will definitely stop in Raleigh for a night or two...

 

I was planning on just doing the front right port like you did, and put one of the STM fittings in the rear pcv port...Reading through your crankcase pressure thread it seemed like the pcv valve really isn't needed...I have the MAP krankcase vents I was going to install back on the car also once I get everything done...

 

I see no point in removing pcv.. all i did was run a check valve directly after the pcv so if the pcv would leak the check valve would catch it and stop the leak.

then i have another check valve inbetween the intake manifold line and catch can so the can dont see boost pressure.

have him drill & tap and this is the fitting i used and is super high quality

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...#ht_1302wt_939

for check valves i used: http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/ite...6844&catid=489

make sure your kracka vent is not defective, i had a set and it was defective. make sure you cant blow through both ways on it.

i tested one of these usplastic check valves to 100psi and it shot across the room and survived that smack against the wall.. those things are high quality and cheap. i have them on the car now and they work great.

i will replace them with the kracka vents, but its good to know there are other options available if need be.

dont know what you plan on doing.. AN fittings or just hose? i choose hose because i can easily remove stuff.. an fittings are a pain in the *** and are stiff.

 

call me when u get in town and will do something. goodluck on the surgery man!

 

Thanks again for those links to the fittings and check valves, I think I remember seeing those in your crank case thread...I look at the pcv valve like this...If I plan on running 1 or 2 check valves right after it, I might as well just remove it and that oil analysis that one guy posted didn't seem to show any negative affects to the oil with not running a pcv valve...So more then likely I will just end up deleting the pcv and running check valves...Tom, did you pcv valve leak at all during a boost leak test? Ill check my krankcase vents again and make sure they don't leak at all...I agree with an fittings, they can be a pain in the *** sometimes so well see...

 

Magnesium is not difficult to weld, I can weld it or tap it no problem. Everyone says it will (explode) or (catch fire) so dont weld on it. Yeah you must be careful while welding but its the grinding and cutting it you gota be worried about. Just thought id throw this out there.

 

i dont know the first thing about welding, all i was saying is you dont need to weld it.. just drill it out and tap it.. but im sure thats what you're gonna do anyways. on DSM covers you have no choice, but evo has enough space to drill and tap and stay above the baffling.

 

Alright guys, I've decided to completely change my battery setup and mount the battery in the rear. I don't want to go back to a full battery so this is the setup I am looking at, let me know what you guys think or if anyone has any feedback on this battery and battery box...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TAY-48300/?rtype=10

http://www.braillebattery.com/index....eries/b14115/#

 

bumper for any info or feedback on this setup!!!

 

ur best bet is to talk to Jason (spec ops) on it since he went thru all of this not too long ago.
gl!

 

hahah...ummm...Jason had a little mishap when he first relocated his to the trunk...

 

Yep... because Jason had an Autozone alternator installed in his Evo that no one told him about and it wasn't equivalent to the stock alternator. So needless to say I found out the hard way, fixed it and haven't had a problem since. My first IX I also relocated to the trunk and its been going strong for 4 years now

 

Well it would have been no fun if someone told you...haha...Any of the Spec-Ops pick up one of the Douglas Autoworks Alternators yet??

 

No... We haven't had any electrical situations come up. Only a ton of repairs and rewiring to do for the customers with the crows nest mod installed