Introducing my Evo 3
Mar 17, 2012, 03:28 PM
#122
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Well i got the body work done at the local Ford dealer (best body shop on the rock 
) and i gave the car a single coat (need to do another of semigloss rattle can!
It needs another coat and thin layer of filler over the holes i welded up on the trunk lid.
Tomorrow i should be getting a 3.5bar map sensor so i can start playing with ecu controlled boost (its at 10psi right now). Going to go for 18psi and see what we get.
) and i gave the car a single coat (need to do another of semigloss rattle can!It needs another coat and thin layer of filler over the holes i welded up on the trunk lid.
Tomorrow i should be getting a 3.5bar map sensor so i can start playing with ecu controlled boost (its at 10psi right now). Going to go for 18psi and see what we get.
Mar 19, 2012, 07:45 PM
#123
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Well i got a 3.5Bar map sensor installed 
Did 2 3rd gear pulls and starting to play with the ecu based boost control. It's definitely going to take quite a few pulls to sort out the boost curve. So far i am only playing with the 3rd gear curve, i will definitely need to get some 1st and 2nd gear logging done before time attack.
The boost curve on the virtual dyno chart is using the 3rd gear settings on the right. I changed to the ones on the left to see if i can get the 16psi straight across. We will see tomorrow.
It needs another 5 cans of semigloss and it will be finished!
Did 2 3rd gear pulls and starting to play with the ecu based boost control. It's definitely going to take quite a few pulls to sort out the boost curve. So far i am only playing with the 3rd gear curve, i will definitely need to get some 1st and 2nd gear logging done before time attack.The boost curve on the virtual dyno chart is using the 3rd gear settings on the right. I changed to the ones on the left to see if i can get the 16psi straight across. We will see tomorrow.
It needs another 5 cans of semigloss and it will be finished!
Mar 29, 2012, 06:41 PM
#125
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I swear the welder at Scott's could weld ketchup to the moon. The arms were heated up and then the cups were TIG welded in place. The steel plug used to hold the shape worked perfectly.
Some grinding of the LCA needed to be done
The arms sit about an inch lower than what they were.
I also had to cut about 1/2" off the studs to clear the wheel.
I am now getting some bump steer but that was expected. The tie rods should arrive next week to solve that problem.
Apr 2, 2012, 01:35 PM
#126
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Well, autocross got rained out on sunday (not before myself and 3 other people spent an hour laying out cones and marking the gates with chalk in the hot *** sun).
I wired up my AEM twin fire finally and swapped in some BPR7EIX plugs. Made a noticable improvement in smoothness and i can cruise at a lower rpm without shuddering/bogging now.
I have the pins ordered from the Toyota dealership to swap in the 300m COP kit i pieced together so that should be done next week.
The Hallman MBC i got from STIKiller4G63 is at the post office so i will be picking that up tomorrow and installing that evening.
I am fighting a weird boost creep that may be as a result of me trying to run too little boost on the Evo 9 actuator (11-12psi) so i am going to do a 3rd gear pull without the wastegate connected and see what the curve looks like. If it creeps then i have to revisit the O2 housing, if it stays at 0psi then i need to suck it up and tighten up the actuator rod and run more boost.
I wired up my AEM twin fire finally and swapped in some BPR7EIX plugs. Made a noticable improvement in smoothness and i can cruise at a lower rpm without shuddering/bogging now.
I have the pins ordered from the Toyota dealership to swap in the 300m COP kit i pieced together so that should be done next week.
The Hallman MBC i got from STIKiller4G63 is at the post office so i will be picking that up tomorrow and installing that evening.
I am fighting a weird boost creep that may be as a result of me trying to run too little boost on the Evo 9 actuator (11-12psi) so i am going to do a 3rd gear pull without the wastegate connected and see what the curve looks like. If it creeps then i have to revisit the O2 housing, if it stays at 0psi then i need to suck it up and tighten up the actuator rod and run more boost.
Apr 7, 2012, 02:46 PM
#127
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I am having some boost creep issues so after consulting with a good friend of mine we decided that this was the best bet.
I was getting around 4-6psi of creep from 5000-7500rpm. I even disconnected the actuator arm from the flapper and still got the boost creep so the restriction appeared to be the transition from flange to the 1.75" dump tube
It won't win me any awards but it will get the job done!
I massaged the ports in the turbine housing a little more, apparently i already smoothed the entry but forgot.
I still need to mod the actuator for more open throw. I am too pooped to deal with that today though
I was getting around 4-6psi of creep from 5000-7500rpm. I even disconnected the actuator arm from the flapper and still got the boost creep so the restriction appeared to be the transition from flange to the 1.75" dump tube
It won't win me any awards but it will get the job done!
I massaged the ports in the turbine housing a little more, apparently i already smoothed the entry but forgot.
I still need to mod the actuator for more open throw. I am too pooped to deal with that today though
Apr 14, 2012, 04:12 PM
#129
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Got the car aligned today. Damned rear toe cam bolts are frozen solid so no rear toe adjustment.
Which sucks because one side is toed out 0.05* and the other toed in 0.18*. Some new rear trailing arms are in the works though so that issue should be solved soon.
I ended up with -1.5* camber and 0.05* toe out up front, -1* camber out back.
I also got the COP soldered up finally
Which sucks because one side is toed out 0.05* and the other toed in 0.18*. Some new rear trailing arms are in the works though so that issue should be solved soon.
I ended up with -1.5* camber and 0.05* toe out up front, -1* camber out back.
I also got the COP soldered up finally
Jun 9, 2012, 11:29 PM
#130
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Well the AEM Twin fire crapped out with less than 2 weeks of use so i am back on the stock ignition which is doing just fine.
I have installed a shep viscous coupling eliminator and removed the front axles to go rwd. While it is FUN, the car is pretty much a doughnut and drift machine. Autocross was usless lol.
I am switching back to AWD this week and swapping out to a 5 lug setup using 1g front hubs and the whole rear brake assembly from an Evo 4. The Evo 4 rear rotors are vented and are 284mm vs 260mm in diameter.
Tonight i dropped the rear diff and rebuilt it with the 12 plates from Weir performance. Surprisingly the stock plates were arranged "properly" and did not show much sign of wear.
I also ditched the 17year old center bearing bushings for solid aluminum ones from RTM racing
My wife ordered me some Megan Toe rods for my bithday so i will get a chance to fight with the rusted solid stock ones soon. My plan is to order rod ends and some coilover shock weld on mounts to use for the one side that has the odd T bushing. I have already broken off 1 bolt and I imagine the others will do the same.
Since the local 1/8 drag strip owner feels like opening it up for regular events again i have an AEM W/I kit i plan on installing so i can stuff 29-30psi down the cars throat and see what it does. Anything below 7.5 with my crappy driving and i will be pleased. Not too sure how the 225 series R1R's are going to like that.
I have installed a shep viscous coupling eliminator and removed the front axles to go rwd. While it is FUN, the car is pretty much a doughnut and drift machine. Autocross was usless lol.
I am switching back to AWD this week and swapping out to a 5 lug setup using 1g front hubs and the whole rear brake assembly from an Evo 4. The Evo 4 rear rotors are vented and are 284mm vs 260mm in diameter.
Tonight i dropped the rear diff and rebuilt it with the 12 plates from Weir performance. Surprisingly the stock plates were arranged "properly" and did not show much sign of wear.
I also ditched the 17year old center bearing bushings for solid aluminum ones from RTM racing
My wife ordered me some Megan Toe rods for my bithday so i will get a chance to fight with the rusted solid stock ones soon. My plan is to order rod ends and some coilover shock weld on mounts to use for the one side that has the odd T bushing. I have already broken off 1 bolt and I imagine the others will do the same.
Since the local 1/8 drag strip owner feels like opening it up for regular events again i have an AEM W/I kit i plan on installing so i can stuff 29-30psi down the cars throat and see what it does. Anything below 7.5 with my crappy driving and i will be pleased. Not too sure how the 225 series R1R's are going to like that.
Oct 18, 2013, 08:59 AM
#135
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