EvoHuy

Heres a converted cp9a rhd for sale in sacramento area in California if you guys know anyone who would be interested, sorry i dont know where else to post this lol
This is Mannys old evo5 by the way

http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/3860707721.html

wang4u

iTrader: (3)

The engine oil and coolant was nasty! Oil was overfilled by almost a quart. Wrong sized oil filter even and yep, wasnt tighten. Have never seen such a small filter (imagine a width of a Coke can). Coolant was brownish but at least was thin, not all goopy. I can only assume this motor sat in a warehouse (or junkyard car) for awhile before dipsh!t threw it in. Regardless, flushed them both with a fill, drive, drain, refill technique. Everything looks good now.

Hope you can get your Evo running! For a gap or even small crack, I personally like to use JB Weld. The stuff is quite amazing at sealing random little things.

So we got into the suspension just to find all 4 locking collars (bottom collar of coilover) loose! I raised the front by 3/8" and the rear 1/2". Still looks like the rear might need to raised a bit more. I want the tires to clear the flares, as Im thinking of doin 9" or 9.5" wide wheels with either 255 or 275 tires. Sadly raising the ride height didnt change/stop the clunking/clicking noise heard. Honestly, I dont think its the suspension. I thoroughly checked the suspension, lca, bushings and coilover install. Did notice the steering end links need to be replaced, they are torn to shiet.

With friend in the pass seat, him and I both agree the noise is coming from under the center console and not the pass front susp area. While the car was jacked up, I inspected the driveshaft and noticed its a little loose, but looks to be only shaking inside the carrier bushing (bushing looks ok, but will change it out anyways). The front yolk seems tight, as does the rear. The plan is to throw the car on an actual lift and inspect it further. I never noticed before, but it clunks/clicks going straight from a dead stop, and any speed turning right (though seems the slower the speed the more predominate the noise). Doesnt make the noise going over bumps or being whipped back and forth, nor turning left. I hope the drivetrain lasts through the summer. By spring next year it will all be upgraded, including a 2pc driveshaft (or 1pc if can find it/get made). To throws this out there if anyone else has experienced the same problem, sometimes its 1 clunk/click, other times its 3 in sequence. To both of us, sounds just like a CV going bad. But both CVs were fine. You cant feel the clunk/click either on the floorboard and can only be really heard if the windows are down.

I dont hear a death whine so Im pretty certain its not the trans or t case. Oh as for the front drivers side squeal, Im thinking its the brakes. Pads look a little worn. The rotors are missing the set screws and show a little bit of streaking. Guess we'll find out here soon.

EvoHuy

dam sounds like you're getting those little annoying sounds. Just turn up your music lol jk. But yeah i feel you on that even a little screw i'm misisng in the interior use to get on my nerves.

Yeah i had jb weld on that slit before but somehow it eventually got soften and i could scratch it straight off=/. I think its because i've gotten gasoline on it from dealing with the fuel pump and all. But i researched and found a sealant called Seal All which resists oil and gas so i'm having a try at that (under $4). I would use the sealant i used to seal up the 4wd floor pan but its cost $30 for a piece so i didnt wanna run and buy one if i'm only going to be using a little bit of it (I totally forgot whats it called but that stuff is crazy tough when its dried).

EvoHuy

Got the fuelpump installed and Return fuel unit install on the saddle side of the tank
and poured in 3gallons of gas into the other side of the tank. The Car started right up!
Thanks Rich and Sean for being able to help as much as you guys can.
At least we know now that having no gas on the saddle side of the tank CAN cause the car not to idle properly.

Now i just need to bleed my brembos. Oh yea another question for you guys wonder if this is the proper order to bleed em?
1)Rear RHS
2)Rear LHS
3)Front RHS
4)Front LHS

wang4u

iTrader: (3)

Haha. Im not one to mask one problem with another. I havent had time to trace down whats causing the noise. My best guess right now is the driveshaft. Either the yolk itself is loosened or bearings are out. Fortunately Im almost positive its not the suspension, therefore lowering the car a little more is in the works.

JB Weld works awesome if you sand the area prior. Ive sealed 2 Honda gas tanks with it, though they are usually metal and I put a screw in first and weld over it. Has worked great for my brother in law's Accord. 15 years on the road that way haha

Glad you could get your car running again! It is definitely weird how the 4/5/6 Evos have a split tank. My plans for future will be to ditch that tank for a fuel cell. That way -8 AN lines will be cake and it'll be a bottom gravity fed instead of a siphon.

I believe the correct way to bleed Evo brakes are:

1. Passenger's side rear outside nipple
2. Passenger's side rear inside nipple
3. Driver's side front outside nipple
4. Driver's side front inside nipple
5. Driver's side rear outside nipple
6. Driver's side rear inside nipple
7. Passenger's side front outside nipple
8. Passenger's side front inside nipple

Original link: http://www.joe250.com/cars/evo8/brak...ebleeding.html

Ive had this link saved since my Evo 8 lol. Ive bled the brakes on that one nearly 8 years ago. Dont think much has changed since the Evo 4, so should be the same. I plan to do mine soon, as I think the slight squealing noise is definitely the drivers front brake (poss caliper replacement is needed).

EvoHuy

15years huh thats great ahah but then welding is for sure the best fix, i just didnt want to take off my exhaust and drive shaft and drop the tank and clean and all before i can weld it. Too much work for me at the moment lol.

Ok so thats how you bleed it huh thats great thanks for the info. But i always thought you were suppose to bleed the inside nipple then outside nipple no? just remember seeing a video on youtube a couple months back of bleeding brembos thats why. but then it was off an sti. But i'll do it your way.

wang4u

iTrader: (3)

I meant JB weld haha. I sand the spot, put a screw or something metal in to close the gap a little then JB over it. Of course welding is the best BUT you cant weld a gas tank easily. Need to let it dry for awhile or the heat will cause an explosion.

I followed the exact instructions and worked beautifully. You definitely bleed the outer before the inner. Has been discussed many times. I searched before attempting therefore following the instructions on that website.

EvoHuy

oh you were talking about jb welding ahah.
Yea it'll explode if the gas tank is not cleaned properly free of fumes and all thats why i did NOT want to do all that. So Seal All actually works perfectly find since its gas and oil resistant.

Ok gotcha so outter first then inner
Thanks Rich

wang4u

iTrader: (3)

Yanno, after you mentioned you watched a video, I believe I watched the same one. Its on a STI right? He mentions to bleed the inside than the outside. May have to look up the service manual to make sure but I will say doing outside then inside worked for me.

Im sure its the caliper seals that is causing my slight squeal on the drivers side. Brake pads are dragging. Still havent got the car on a lift to see if its the driveshaft making the clicking noise. Regardless I plan to replace the carrier bushings anyways.

EvoHuy

yeah its probably the same video. im going to try out your way and see how thats goes since you said it worked for your evo8.

Calipur seals huh might be the circular seals on the pistons? man that would require remove of the whole calipur huh. Hopefully its something else thats easier to solve. Keep us updated.

wang4u

iTrader: (3)

Hey guys,

So finally we got a stock tune and the car is driving like normal now. Yesterday, went, got emissions and plates finally. We can finally start driving this thing around and fixing the little problems it still has. Boost comes on just like my old E8. The Grimspeed ebc seems to be working great, though sadly the Phantom boost gauge has pooped out. I logged a couple runs and seen everything is pretty normal. Took Tom awhile to figure out which rom we have, but once that was figured out, its running pretty smooth and every gear pulls hard.

We are still experiencing clunking while left turning and moving forward from a standstill. I posted a thread in the suspension forum hoping someone knows what the issue might be. I fear it might be transfer case. Ive inspected the pass axle, driveshaft, and raised the front end another 1" from when the car first arrived. Still no luck.

Brakes definitely need attention. Im going to order a full repair kit and new pads/rotors soon. The drivers side drags a little and sounds like the passenger side is starting too. Could be the car sat for another 2 months after I got it till we started to drive it yesterday.

Im also looking for a factory manifold heatshield and hood diversion plate. The manifold gets sooo hot, its starting to warp the mesh on the hood.

Finally the car is out of storage for good. Now time to clean her up a little and cruise around lol. After emissions, we rolled around for an hour datalogging. The first 10 mins around the town where it was stored, a guy pulls up to us and askes if it was a conversion. Turns out he is working on a Yellow Evo 3 and has yet to do the engine and awd conversion. This beast sticks out like a sore thumb, lots of head turners

Oh lastly, we have decided to contract Jacks Transmissions for the full engine build, transmission upgrade, and their bulletproof t-case. We plan to start this Winter and go over little things while the car is down. FP is still slacking on getting us the turbo. Should see it within the next week or so. Still deciding either 2.3L or 2.4LR build. Cant Wait!!

EvoHuy

its been awhile. But boy does it sounds sweet glad you have things going.
i so wish me and u can roll together. After Manny got rid of his evo5 i dont think i'll ever find any another old evos to cruise with =(
But me riding along with my boys 91 all trac (with alot of GT4 parts) catch alot of peoples eyes though cus of how rare it is to see these rides heh

EvoHuy

I'm trying to upgrade intercooler and was wonderin what brand you using and how it fits? any bumper cutting? and if you can help me get the dimensions to so i know what size to look for.
Thanks

Rohit

Might pay to double check that it's not your suspension. Quite often if the strut goes you can get a clunk or a knock at slow speeds. Mine did it as well, picked up some new struts and it's gone. Can you swap it out with a known good strut at all?

wang4u

iTrader: (3)

Would love to cruise with others! Recently met a guy with a converted E4. Pimpin ride for sure.

We'll have to ask Sean. Ive taken the bumper off and seen there didnt look to be any cuts to fit it. Its bolted from the bottom, and looking through the bumper, looks like it fits just fine.

That was my first theory when I thought the noise was coming from the pass side. So when I went through and adjusted ride height, I pulled the pass assembly apart to check the hats, everything seemed fine. With another in the car, we have determined its definitely the driveshaft, and more specifically the front yolk/knuckle. I havent had time to inspect it further but that is next on the list.