johnnnyjeans

iTrader: (10)

*****update 10/18/2012*****
braille #6186 bracket added.

___________________________


finished my mini project.

FYI. This is a deka ETX14 battery for $45. It is EXACTLY the same as a Braille b14115 battery that cost $115.

The bracket on the top i used is a braille bracket. Part # braille 6186 (with 6in tie down rods).

enjoy guys. live in houston texas, never have a problem cranking because its always HOT here.

powers up radio/ac/no issues at all. powers up my VIPER 5901 Alarm NO PROBLEM. (many ppl have asked if mini battery and viper alarm was gonna be ok or not).

This battery is so small i have to use spacers, spacers, and spacers, and washers to get the the tie down to stay in the thread. Also the tie down brackets are also DIY.






*****update 10/18/2012*****

got a new / better / less flimsy bracket from BRAILLE. Part# braille 6186. Got it from Jegs. $24. Fast shipment.

unsungboxer

iTrader: (7)

Here is a trick so you can ditch those spacers:

1. Mark the bolt where you want to cut it.
2. Screw the nut down past the mark.
3. Cut the bolt at the mark.
4. Apply a small amount of grease to the threads.
5. Unscrew the nut.

By doing this the nut will fix the threads that you cut. The grease keeps if from binding. Hope that helps cuz ur gonna get lots of feedback on those spacers.

uterus!

iTrader: (2)

You really should insert a rubber grommet in that hole where the positive cable runs though the sheet metal. The sharp metal edge can eat though the insulation over time and it wont be pretty when it does.

16vEVOIX

iTrader: (3)

Did you run the positive cable through the interior, to the front of the car?

How did you connect it to the cables that are in the front of the car?

BrendanS

iTrader: (7)

...i wish i could say that

johnnnyjeans

iTrader: (10)

will definitely do that. the cable is stationary and i dont see any wear and tear on the wire. But i guess it couldn't hurt.

johnnnyjeans

iTrader: (10)

I ran it through the left side of the car all the way to the front of the OEM positive battery connection.

I kept all of the OEM positive connection and just connect the wire to it. 100% reversible.

Some ppl add another fuse/breaker between the link BUT the OEM positive connection already has a fuse/breaker to it so i dont see a point in doing it.


Think of this as a simple longer wire and moved the battery to the rear.

uterus!

iTrader: (2)

The point of the added fuse is to break the connection in case the positive cable shorts to ground/chassis along its path back to your engine bay.

That is one of the reasons I recommended adding that grommet.

As it sits right now if it does short to ground somewhere there is nothing to break the connection and it will just keep blasting sparks and slag until it either blows itself clear, or the battery runs out of juice.

SPANKED

iTrader: (2)

Which Deka battery? I have a Deka ETX14 I've yet to put in. I'm worried about the CCA, but others have said it's fine.

malac0da13

Yes what battery is that? Curious because I work there and get a discount and have been thinking of doing the same thing just not sure which one to use. Are those batteries safe to mount sideways like that too?

sujinX

iTrader: (22)

Deka ETX14, its sealed and vibration resistant.

johnnnyjeans

iTrader: (10)

what he said. its a nice battery. it cranks no problem. really strong.

cazlow

iTrader: (3)

looks good... I need to relocate mine. My terminals and tie down are kind of jacked up.

I like the tails. Any close ups? Did you cut both layers out for reverse lights or just one? I can't tell from the pics. Any links to that vinyl?

johnnnyjeans

iTrader: (10)

search ebay for "red tailight glass vinyl"
buy a whole sheet of 24inx24in. This will allow you 2 layers.

I originally did one layer. but it faded into pink.

WARNING. MUST PUT 2 LAYERS.

I just cut out the reverse hole by eyeballing it.

sorry. too lazy for close up. but trust me. its good.