evo1326

I have recently been trying to research rust proofing products for my car and I stumbled upon electronic rust proofing. It looks promising, but I can not find supporting evidence. I saw one product on the JCWhitney webite called electro-shield, for a hundred bucks I don't think it's that bad. But I wanted some opinions on this type of product, and I am looking to you for help.

ellivnad

iTrader: (2)

A few months ago Two Guys Garage on Speed channel put that system on a truck. They talked it up quite a bit but I don't think they had any previous experience with it or long term results to back it up. It involved a small box and two pads mounted on extreme corners of the truck frame. My grandparents actually got this system as an option on there 93 Toyota corolla, so it's been around for a while. To this date the body panels are solid, but a lot of the frame has rusted.

evo1326

So then it kinda works. They talked about elctro-shield or some other product?

evo1326

Has anyone else heard of such a product? I would really love to preserve my evo for years to come.

evo1326

Does anyone else out there have a good or a bad thing to say about this type of product. Maybe none of you would like to keep your car as long as I would. I don't want my car turning into a rust bucket at any point during my ownership. C'mon I need some advice here. GOOD PRODUCT< OR > BAD PRODUCT < OR > NEVER HEARD OF PRODUCT.

Rob W.

iTrader: (8)

I have the $100 JC Whitney version of the kit on my EVO. I installed it last winter. I dunno... it seems fine. But how do you really know? You basically have to keep the car for 10 years and compare it's 'rustworthiness' with other vehicles you've owned for a long time. I figured that for $100, I'd give it a try on this car. We'll see.

evo1326

Cool, I really appreciate your feedback on that product. I'm really serious about trying to save my car from becoming a rust bucket. By the way where exactly did you place the two units? I could not find a good spot for them in the engine bay. The website said that the units should not be near extreme heat such as the manifold and away from moving parts. Well, there really isn't that much room in there you know!!

Rob W.

iTrader: (8)

I'll take some pics of the install for you. I put one electrode just forward of the passenger strut tower and the other in a similar spot on the driver's side. The passenger one fits very well, but on the driver's side it's a very tight squeeze.

I never bothered with the car wash stuff they included in the kit. I don't want to put some unknown substance on my new paint, thank you.

evo1326

That would help out a lot, I appreciate it. I think I know exactly where you put them but when you get a chance take some pics so I can get a better idea. I'll probably order the unit this weekend. For a hundred bucks why not! I definately DO NOT WANT someone drilling holes in my car just to spray some chemical crap that I would have to respray every other year. That just makes no sense to me. As for the car wash stuff, I didn't think it would be needed either but don't they say it's a good conducter or something like that?

Rob W.

iTrader: (8)

Yeah, that is their claim. But seeing as how even the most expensive waxes only last a few months (at best), I have trouble believing their 'magic juice' is doing much of anything for an entire year. In fact, that one point about the car wash stuff almost made me decide not to get the whole kit (feelings of snake oil and such). But I decided to give the electronics a try and pretend I didn't read the part about the car wash stuff. Actually, I searched the internet to find one of these kits after seeing it on Two Guys Garage and getting curious.

No holes are required, or else I wouldn't have done it (I realize you were referring to a Zibart type thing, but I thought I'd just mention that). You just need to really scrub the area where you're going to install each electrode, then I wiped them down with alcohol pads just to be safe. Then you stick 'em down and wire it all up. No biggie. I will get pics for you this weekend though.

Rob

evo1326

Well I'm assuming that the kit will come with some good instructions. And if not, I don't think this is rocket science to install either so I think I'll be okay. What did you use to scrub the areas down?

I probably will not be able to read or write back until I come back from vacation. I'll be taking my car on a little road trip to the U P, MI

Rob W.

iTrader: (8)

The first pic shows where I put my main controller, a top view of the passenger strut tower area. The second pic shows the remote anode, which is on the driver's side strut tower area. It barely fits. The third pic shows how the very corner of the anode isn't completely stuck down (red circled area), but the actual anode element is completely sealed, so it's okay. These were the best easy locations I could find -- there aren't a lot of flat surfaces on the sheet metal. If you're willing to dig deeper into the underside of the engine compartment, you may find other locations.

I ran the wiring zip-tied (and hidden underneath) across the strut tower brace. About 1/3 over (but still on the passenger half of the car), I branched off and used a convenient ground stud there on the firewall (I soldered ring terminals on to both power leads). I ran the 12V feed right off that box on the positive battery terminal. I coiled up the excess white wire (for the remote anode) and stuffed it neatly underneath the fuse box on the driver's side.

Don't forget to really scrub the area you plan to stick to. Then wipe it with alcohol just in case. I used an ohm meter just to confirm that the paint wasn't going to insulate the sheetmetal. It didn't on my silver car, but with other paint colors you may need to slightly sand the area to get a good connection.

Good luck,

Rob

Samdiver74

If any of you guys were wondering this system is refered to as an Impressed Current anode.
It is one type of system that they use on Offshore Drilling platforms
The other type is called a sacrificial Anode system.

First off you have to understand what goes on with corrosion before you can get a slow down of the process
The Corrosion Reaction
There are four essential components of a corrosion reaction
An anode, (Which corrodes)
a Cathode (which is protected) Electrical current flows from anode to cathode

An electrolyte ( which is normally a solution containing ions that carry current in the form of charged positive ions
and an Electrical path between the Anode and the cathode
When all of these are combined results in the basic battery priciple.
Which is why car batteries only last for so long.
Same with domestic batteries ie duracells and energizers, ever wonder why you get that corrosion after you leave the batteries in you RC car, TV remote and so on for too long.
Also have you ever wondered why you get an electric shock in your mouth when you chew on a piece of foil if you have fillings in your teeth, this is why
Your saliva (Spit) is the electrolytic solution, The foil is one metal, your filing is another (dissimilar metals), when they touch (electrical connection)
ZAP.

These four components combine to form a corrosion cell.
Anodes and Cathodes maybe formed by
2 dissimilar metals in contact (galvanic corrosion) (Refer to the latest Galvanic series table) Do a web search
or more commonly by dissimilar areas on the surface on a single piece of metallic alloy such as in steel.
(Dissimilarity is due to variation in the chemical makeup of the grains within the metallic alloy)

Now things that increase the corrosion rate are as follows
Temperature increase
Flow rate of electrolyte increases
PH balance of the Electrolyte decreases (more acidic)
It is basically a process where metal is trying to revert back to its natural ore.
All metals and alloys suffer from corrosive attack to some extent

So now we move on to Sacrificial Anodes
Refer to the galvanic series table
For example if Steel is connected to any metal below it in the series table (ie more negative) then the steel will become Cathodic and be protected. In a car there are alot of dissimilar metals, Aluminum, Steel, Stainless, Titanium and so on

So most Anodes are usually made out of Aluminum, zinc and magnesium or their alloys. Since they corrode and are gradually consumed, such anodes are called Sacrificial anodes. for them to function properly, sufficient area of the anode/s must be available and there must be a good electrical connection (bare metal) to the steel surface of the structure.
IMPRESSED CURRENT ANODE SYSTEMS WORK DIFFERENTLY, DO NOT REMOVE ANY PAINT UNTIL AFTER YOU HAVE READ THIS WHOLE DESCRIPTION.

there is alot more complicated info which I am not going to go into on sacrificial anodes, plus it isn't really beneficial as you have to determ how much metal of any given type you have on your car. It would involve a total car break down etc.
But the above gives you a basic idea of what goes on.

Impressed Current Anodes
The Principle of cathodic protection is to induce a current from an external anode there by making the car (various metals) into a cathode
The current can be induced by feeding a generated D.C. (Battery) current to an external anode, through a heavy duty electrical cable/s.
As is the case with this system you guys have purchased.

But in order for the vehicle to be protected you have to have this system on all the time, I would be carefull of a drained battery, unless there is something in the circuitry which allows the battery to recharge, or cycle.
I would be very interested if one of you guys could post the instructions up here on the web, so I could check it over

Now depending on what the anodes are made out of determines the durability and life of the system and ultimately how long your car will be protected.

The anodes can be made out of ordinary steel. However these will need to be replaced more frequently, depending on where you live Climate wise. humidity, temperature. ie next to the coast,
I wouldn't use anything less than titanium, for those of you who have Titanium Exhaust systems, other wise your exhaust might just end up being the anode in the impressed current system
Permanent Anodes which are used offshore in the underwater environment to protect the Drilling structures are usually Platinum, Platinum sheathed Titanium, Niobium and others.

there are 2 types of Impressed current systems.
Local anodes
These are attached directly to the surface (but Insulated by a stand off, usually rubber) See diagram attached

Remote anodes
Placed a suitable distance away to provide an overall blanket type coverage.
(opposite corners of the vehicle)

Well guys I hope this gives you a little insight to what you have purchased, If you have any question I am sure the manufacturer will help you with your install etc.
I know it sucks that your anodes are pretty big but you have to look at the amount of metal (your car) which it is trying to protect.
If anyone out there has further info on this please feel free to post it here

Rob W.

iTrader: (8)

That was an excellent writeup! I have no idea what the anode material is made out of. It was spring loaded, so I assume that 'feeds' the material into the metal as it's used. (maybe at a microscopic level?)

It does indeed run all the time. I've left my car sitting for 2 weeks straight (at the airport during a business trip), and never had any issue with battery drain.

Samdiver74

Might only happen in wet weather, unless there is some circuitry to keep the battery cycling. Keep an eye for it though so it doesn't catch you unaware