Disk Brake damage
#1
Disk Brake damage
I have a set of EBC greenstuff installed in my front wheels(3000miles).
Some hours ago, I gave a close look on my disk brake. I could see many small vertical twisty/irregular lines. I would say like many small cracks, but not deep cracks.
Is it a normal condition of a disk brake? or my disk brake was damaged by the ebc pads...
Some hours ago, I gave a close look on my disk brake. I could see many small vertical twisty/irregular lines. I would say like many small cracks, but not deep cracks.
Is it a normal condition of a disk brake? or my disk brake was damaged by the ebc pads...
#2
Originally Posted by k270kmh
I have a set of EBC greenstuff installed in my front wheels(3000miles).
Some hours ago, I gave a close look on my disk brake. I could see many small vertical twisty/irregular lines. I would say like many small cracks, but not deep cracks.
Is it a normal condition of a disk brake? or my disk brake was damaged by the ebc pads...
Some hours ago, I gave a close look on my disk brake. I could see many small vertical twisty/irregular lines. I would say like many small cracks, but not deep cracks.
Is it a normal condition of a disk brake? or my disk brake was damaged by the ebc pads...
If the cracks really are cracks then its time to replace rotors. Stress cracks like those you described are caused by overheating rotors. And once a rotor has stress cracks it can disintegrate without warning. Did you do any track days? Do you often brake hard repeatedly and then park the car without allowing the brakes to cool down?
I doubt that the EBC greenstuff pads caused this problem. They are really a pretty wimpy pad (most road race/track day guys find them not very durable) but not a terrible street pad. They don't generate as much friction as the stock pads and therefore would cause less cracking not more.
#3
The photo couldn't reproduce very well all the "cracks" but it gives an idea.
if the photo doesn't appear go to: http://coatings.fotoblog.uol.com.br/
#5
Evolved Member
iTrader: (12)
how do you do all that hard driving and know absolutely nothing about heat stressing your brakes? do you cool 'em down with a lotta non braked driving after hard stints? if not then that's why you got yourself some cracked rotors... try to get them resurfaced first, if the cracks are too deep get some new rotors that are harder, alcon stasis, rotora, stoptech and zeal make after market rotors, some two piece some full floating. but even if you get new rotors, they won't last long if you don't take care of them in teh proper manner, they'll fade less but nothing stops cracking but cooling down.
#7
Thank you for your advice. I talked with a Mitsu employee and he told me that it was caused by overheating like you said. I will take care of my brakes, but will not slow down my driving habits. I bought this EVO just with one purpose: Driving hard. So the stock brakes need an upgrade. Please help me, because do not know anything about brake pads compounds and brake disk materials. Please, let me know a web site with all technical information about brakes system, I would like to learn.
I will import a set of brake rotors and brake pads from Japan. These are my opitions:
Brake Pads:
EBC green
EBC red
Mines
Endless SS-S or CC-X
Ferodo DS2500
Jspeed
Ralliart Street
Project Mu
K-One
Carbotech
Brake Rotors:
EBC slotted
Brembo Slotted
Endless 24Slit
K-One
Zeal - Straight 6
Racing Gear
Delphi Lockheed
Jspeed
Axis
A'Pexi
YR Advance
Please Help me to find the best combo for street and high speed road driving.
PS: I hate brake noise/squeal
I will import a set of brake rotors and brake pads from Japan. These are my opitions:
Brake Pads:
EBC green
EBC red
Mines
Endless SS-S or CC-X
Ferodo DS2500
Jspeed
Ralliart Street
Project Mu
K-One
Carbotech
Brake Rotors:
EBC slotted
Brembo Slotted
Endless 24Slit
K-One
Zeal - Straight 6
Racing Gear
Delphi Lockheed
Jspeed
Axis
A'Pexi
YR Advance
Please Help me to find the best combo for street and high speed road driving.
PS: I hate brake noise/squeal
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#8
Evolved Member
iTrader: (12)
ok... few things on brakes. first off, the stock brembos are fine for stopping power, you will not get TOO much more from a bigger brake kit. case in point gt40 has ap rotors with mounting brakets running his stock calipers, he locks the wheels and triple digit speeds on race pads.
now what a bigger brake kit WILL get you is heat dissapation. BUT keep in mind, i said before the BEST rotors on EARTH will still crack if you don't warm down etc.
now for the tech specs. stoptech site has lots of good info and that being hte case, stoptech is prolly the most knowledgable brake manufacturer in the states (i really think it's safe to say that... but not sure). in any case, they make the lightest big brake kit that's perfectly balanced to your stock rear brakes (good thing) and they also make an even bigger brake kit that goes all the way around. the heat dissapation qualities of these brakes are phenomenal, almost safe to say fade free in any situation. with these brakes you might not even need to run ducting, but if you did hey... it's THAT much better.
for brake ducting ideas and install how to http://www.otcevo.com/brakeduct.asp
now if you want to keep stock calipers and not pay too much money by just replacing rotors. stasis makes a good rotor, two piece with aluminum hats (very important!) 16 pounds (stoptech is bigger and only weighs 13), paritally floating (not too much noise) and is slotted (they're not really slots but they do the same thing while giving you more surface area for pad contact).
another option is to go to road race engineering and ask for the ap rotor kit, they will mount larger ap rotors and custom mount your stock caliper too, so no need to upgrade calipers AND you get a bigger rotor (pretty cheap too 800 bucks gets you the race pads, rotors and brackets.
zeal or endless also makes a rotor set, they are two piece full floating but how much they weigh is the big question. with this you also don't have to get new calipers.
i would say stay away from one piece rotors as they wil lnot be a weight improvement over stock, nor will they be very much better at dissapating heat (although they will be... just not very much more). examples will be brembo, rotora etc.
in any case, get yourself some new pads performance friction, hawk, ferodo and other brands that are well known, a good set of race pads will run a lot, don't cheap out and get $100 a set ones, cuz those will have no grab at all.
ps, you should get used to brake howl it's not the rotors it's the pads, and they will howl when hot but race pads shouldn't howl until you get to insane temps, but howling is due to a variety of factors. you could just try and clean your system regularly.
btw i emphasized weight so much because aside from heat endurance that's the only other benefit you get from upgrading brakes, losing all that front end unsprung weight. i say that these two factors are the only two benefits, but it's kind of out of context, right now mitsu pads have no bite, if you replace them with race pads you'll get more bite, enough to lock up wheels fairly often, but it'll eat your rotor, you might get two sets of race pads on stock rotor with turning. so with all this in context, stock brakes are great... but of course aftermarket is better.
now what a bigger brake kit WILL get you is heat dissapation. BUT keep in mind, i said before the BEST rotors on EARTH will still crack if you don't warm down etc.
now for the tech specs. stoptech site has lots of good info and that being hte case, stoptech is prolly the most knowledgable brake manufacturer in the states (i really think it's safe to say that... but not sure). in any case, they make the lightest big brake kit that's perfectly balanced to your stock rear brakes (good thing) and they also make an even bigger brake kit that goes all the way around. the heat dissapation qualities of these brakes are phenomenal, almost safe to say fade free in any situation. with these brakes you might not even need to run ducting, but if you did hey... it's THAT much better.
for brake ducting ideas and install how to http://www.otcevo.com/brakeduct.asp
now if you want to keep stock calipers and not pay too much money by just replacing rotors. stasis makes a good rotor, two piece with aluminum hats (very important!) 16 pounds (stoptech is bigger and only weighs 13), paritally floating (not too much noise) and is slotted (they're not really slots but they do the same thing while giving you more surface area for pad contact).
another option is to go to road race engineering and ask for the ap rotor kit, they will mount larger ap rotors and custom mount your stock caliper too, so no need to upgrade calipers AND you get a bigger rotor (pretty cheap too 800 bucks gets you the race pads, rotors and brackets.
zeal or endless also makes a rotor set, they are two piece full floating but how much they weigh is the big question. with this you also don't have to get new calipers.
i would say stay away from one piece rotors as they wil lnot be a weight improvement over stock, nor will they be very much better at dissapating heat (although they will be... just not very much more). examples will be brembo, rotora etc.
in any case, get yourself some new pads performance friction, hawk, ferodo and other brands that are well known, a good set of race pads will run a lot, don't cheap out and get $100 a set ones, cuz those will have no grab at all.
ps, you should get used to brake howl it's not the rotors it's the pads, and they will howl when hot but race pads shouldn't howl until you get to insane temps, but howling is due to a variety of factors. you could just try and clean your system regularly.
btw i emphasized weight so much because aside from heat endurance that's the only other benefit you get from upgrading brakes, losing all that front end unsprung weight. i say that these two factors are the only two benefits, but it's kind of out of context, right now mitsu pads have no bite, if you replace them with race pads you'll get more bite, enough to lock up wheels fairly often, but it'll eat your rotor, you might get two sets of race pads on stock rotor with turning. so with all this in context, stock brakes are great... but of course aftermarket is better.
Last edited by trinydex; Nov 26, 2004 at 05:13 PM.
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