TexasRS

What Toe/Camber is perfect for maxamizing the life of tires for street use?

Not sure if it's relevant but: I'm installing new Khomo ASXs (4 season tire) in 245/45/17 on my stock wheels.

THANKS!

Kayaalp

iTrader: (1)

Keep toe at zero front and rear if you care about tire life. Handling will suffer, but wear will be reduced.

As for camber, that really depends on your driving style.

Emre

TexasRS

I drive it like I would a minivan 90% of the time, then when I see a sharp turn or unoccupied exit ramp I push it hard. (I don't know yet what loosing my advans will do to my driving style also.) What camber do yall recommend for that style of driving? THANKS!

TexasRS

To have it done properly (set toe to zero and camber to ___ ) is it necessary to use a high-dollar "alighment shop" (of which there are none in the small town in which i live), or is this task easy enough to whether any place that does alignments (i.e., Firestone Automotive) will be able to handle it??? In othere words, when I say "I would like my toe set to zero," is that lingo that anyone working the alignment machine will understand?

VTECH8TR

iTrader: (70)

I don't know about taking it just anywhere. If you do make sure they have a Hunter alignment machine, they are bad ***.

Scottybob

iTrader: (3)

You just have to find a shop that will work with you.
- Dont use a shop that is super busy or pick a slow time to go. i.e. not a saturday
- Find a shop/tech that will let you watch and sit in the car when they do the alignment.
- Politely explain that you want to maximize the cornering of your car and you would like to have the alignment set to your specs, and assure them that you will not come back whining if the car pulls, etc.
- Try to find a "car guy" tech. Many of them are, even if they are not intrested in the same kind of cars or use of those cars. My guy is into off road trucks, but we understand each other.
- Tip, especially if the techs work on what is known as "flat rate" $20 will get you a long way.

Be cool, but firm. In 20 years I've never had a shop refuse to do what I want with an alighment. Remember 99% of the customers they deal with have no clue about cars.

Kayaalp

iTrader: (1)

That's not really what I meant!

If you want to know what camber to run for "your style," the tires will tell the story. Look at your old tires and measure wear across the tread. A good alignment shop that has experience with motorsports should be able to help you figure out what to do.

Anyway, the kind of driving you do sounds pretty "typical." The stock alignment specs are VERY conservative. I would just stick with stock specs if I were you.

Emre

TexasRS

Thanks Emre. When you say "stick with the stock specs" are you just talking about setting the camber to stock? Do you suggest setting the toe to zero or to stock specs? Thanks.

Kayaalp

iTrader: (1)

99.999% of the drivers on the road are very conservative (yes...even most Evo owners). Most people just trundle along on the highways, city streets, and through the suburbs 99% of the time and maybe punch it in a straight line every once in a while. Even when they occasionally "push it" it in the corners, they're not anywhere near their cars' cornering limits. And most people will complain if they have to change their tires every 30K miles...let alone every 5-10K.

So, the stock alignment is spec'ed accordingly. Stock specs will give you good tire life. Plus, you will get a very benign-handling car with gentle understeer that's less prone to trailing throttle oversteer. I would just stick with stock specs and be happy. Setting toe to zero all around may marginally improve tire life compared to stock...but the difference will be minimal and the turn-in might be less crisp.

Emre

TexasRS

Ok, sounds reasonable to me. Thanks. I assume the average automotive shop will have a record of the stock specs? Or do I need to provide them in the case of a rare car such as the evo. (I'm not even sure what they are myself. I will do some board searches.)

Toobs

iTrader: (10)

Camber Front(L&R) -1.5
Toe 0
Camber Rear(L&R) -1.0
Toe 0

Kayaalp

iTrader: (1)

They should have stock specs on file. However, bringing your own is always a good idea. I've seen them posted somewhere on the board.


If you're running so little neg. camber up front, I wouldn't put -1.0 in the rear or the car will understeer like crazy.

Emre

Toobs

iTrader: (10)

Sorry bout the typo it's was early in the morning when I did that.
Front -1.5 (L&R)
Toe 0
Rear -1.0 (L&R)
Toe 0
Kayaalp thanks for pointing that out.