Racer RS X

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the feedback everyone.
erioshi, you are right, I need to go easier on my brakes, and stop over driving the car.
As for what I am doing:
The rotors are not warped, they just stopped working when the fluid boiled. When they cooled, they went back to normal, but the brake feel is gone.
I got the WORKS brake lines, and I am going to use the Motul 600 fluid.
Thw WORKS lines are more than the Goodrich lines, but less than all the others. They appear to be good quality, and we'll see how they work. Andrew at Dyno4mance is going to do the install, since I can not bleed the lines.
As for the pads, currently Project Mu NS, I am going to look at them when the car is on the rack and see how they are doing.
I will probably get the air guides.
I am happy my rotors still have life, gives me time to save money to replace them this spring/summer.

One last thing. What are your thoughts on those braces that go around the brake fluid reservoir? They are fairly cheap, wondering if it is worth installing one while doing the lines and fluid.

KillaSweep

iTrader: (1)

I think the Project Mu pads vivid dumped off on me saying they were better than the Ferodo pads is a load of ****. They don't dust much which is great for street driving....but they heat up super fast and suck for the track. my .02

Evoisdream

iTrader: (27)

ok im gonna need some pads here soon but i dont do much extreme track stuff yet in about 5 or 6 months im sure i will but i can upgrade lines etc... then should i just go with the ferodo or some hawks? thanks and does the new fluid really make a drastic dif?


evoisdream

Kayaalp

iTrader: (1)

It sounds like you're not doing any track driving...just street. In that case, the RBF600 fluid might not be ideal. Sure, it's a high-temp fluid that's great on the track (I use it myself). However, it is more hygroscopic than most brands of brake fluid. That means you need to change it constantly. If you let it sit in your system for more than a month or so, you will get tons of condensation inside your brake lines and calipers. People who use RBF600 on the street eventually find excessive corrosion inside their brake systems.

If you did "boil your fluid" it's not because you exceeded the dry boiling point. I seriously doubt you got your brakes hotter than the 500 degrees or so you'd need to do that. Probably what happened is you hadn't changed your fluid for a couple of months and water got in, lowering the boiling point dramatically. Racing fluid (like RBF600) often has an even lower wet boiling point than the better street-oriented fluids on the market (like Valvoline or Ford). In that case, switching to race fluid wouldn't have prevented your problem, and might even have made it worse!

You should be careful about products designed for racing in a street-driven car. Racing pads, racing fluid, and floating rotors are hardly necessary on the street. Stainless lines, like most race parts, will need to be checked for corrosion regularly and changed often. People like to slap on race parts, but for most street drivers this is not the best way to go.

Emre

Kayaalp

iTrader: (1)

That's like saying "I'm buying new tires, should I go for Goodyears or Yokohamas?"

Each brand offers several different compounds. There's a huge difference between Hawk HPS street pads and HT-10's. What do you need?

Emre

Racer RS X

iTrader: (6)

I think my brakes wore out because I live in the south and have access to mountain runs within 45 minutes of where I live (North Georgia, Deals Gap, etc.). After 30 plus runs, each 1 to 2 hours each, I wore some things out. I admit I am a little hard on the car, and do not give it much of a break during the runs. We'll see what happens when I get the parts installed.

mifesto

iTrader: (58)

FYI by changing the fluid to motul, it will absorb moisture quicker then stock fluid and the fluid change interval is now shorter

Evoisdream

iTrader: (27)

i understand what ur saying i think that you cleared up a lot of things for me .... im looking into new pads and well doing that seeing brake lines fluids etc... but i dont drive the car hard enough for anything other then some pads so i should really just go with some nicer then stock but streetable pads something with less dust if possible thanks!

erioshi

Racer, I'd actually recommend the ATE fluid. The dry boiling point is a touch lower, but the wet boiling point is as good or better if I remember correctly. Another point in favor of the ATE is that it is olne of the least hydroscopic of the performance brake fluids available. That means it's less likely to pull warer out of the air, and will need to be changed less often on a street car.

Your loss of feel and decreased braking should be curable (short term) with two simple steps.

First bleed your brakes with standard DOT-3or 4 fluid for now. The bleed order is passenger's rear, driver's front, driver's rear, passenger's front. I knew it was wierd so I just re-checked the manual.

Second, take a set of your brake pads out and see if the surfaces are glazed. If they are glazed, you can break that up with some coarse sand paper or the old school "paddoc trick" of rubbing them face down on some clean concrete. You should still plan on replacing them, but this will help until the new pads arrive.

I haven't researched the reinforcement boxes, but I haven't noticed any flex in my Evo's firewall, either.

trinydex

iTrader: (12)

only a month really?

Racer RS X

iTrader: (6)

erioshi, thanks for the tips. I have some free time this weekend and try that with the brake pads.
Also, I'll run the brake fluid by Andrew and dyno4mance and see if he has access to it.
Thanks

Kayaalp

iTrader: (1)

That's true if you're comparing Motul 5.1 to ATE Super Blue/Typ 200. However, Motul RBF600 is actually a little better than the ATE. There's a helpful table of the dry and wet boiling points of a whole bunch of different fluids here:

http://www.bmwquebec.ca/bmw/technical/brake_fluids

Castrol SRF is amazing...its wet boiling point is better than the dry boiling points of some brands! But it's very expensive at around $70 a bottle.

Emre