Intercooler rerouted as brake cooler?
Jan 31, 2005, 08:06 AM
#16
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Some rally cars do this. Trans-am cars have used it. There's nothing new about it. You are not flooding the rotor with water, only putting a mist of water into the center. The water will immmediately vaporize. It's not going to warp the rotor. However, I don't think I would stop the car with the rotors hot with the water spraying on them, that might cause something bad.
Feb 1, 2005, 07:10 PM
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ok lets see extreamly hot rotors and cool water... hmm maybe its just me but that doesnt sound like a good idea... if u run the rotors as hard as u make it sound the water will cool them down too fast resulting in potential cracking also the warping will come about faster not slower this way i advise against my advise is instead buy some sloted and perforated rotors, add the duckts underneath the car, make sure ur wheels is a nice open spoke one and u should b ok but however if u do end up doing this modification pls poast the results im sure there r plenty of us who r interested in them one way or another :] goodluck
Feb 12, 2005, 10:31 AM
#20
uhm... this seems like a good idea... cuz you could even leave the stock sprayer on auto and it'd do it on acceleration for you and you woudln't have to worry about it spraying when you're on the brakes.
thing is... how much spray can the stock sprayer make? it already produces a fine mist... you need another mist nossle so i see how it would become relevent to have a new set of nozzles. but why the pump? for the nozzle? why not just get the part from mitsu and get some fish tank line and do it that way?
there is a small problem, the lines need to be primed before tehy start misting but that's already a factor regardless, and if you keep the stock system you can just pump the manual button for a bit after your brakes are up to temp.
seriously... why not keep the stocker? i'd love to find a use for the ic sprayer. or maybe there's a way to replace the stock sprayer pump with the more powerful one... cuz seriously it's the automatic electronics that make it trick!
thing is... how much spray can the stock sprayer make? it already produces a fine mist... you need another mist nossle so i see how it would become relevent to have a new set of nozzles. but why the pump? for the nozzle? why not just get the part from mitsu and get some fish tank line and do it that way?
there is a small problem, the lines need to be primed before tehy start misting but that's already a factor regardless, and if you keep the stock system you can just pump the manual button for a bit after your brakes are up to temp.
seriously... why not keep the stocker? i'd love to find a use for the ic sprayer. or maybe there's a way to replace the stock sprayer pump with the more powerful one... cuz seriously it's the automatic electronics that make it trick!
Last edited by trinydex; Feb 12, 2005 at 10:35 AM.
Feb 12, 2005, 05:20 PM
#22
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To all those concerned about warping:
You would have a point if you got the rotor scorching hot and then sprayed it down with a hose pipe. What we are suggesting here is a mist that will increase the density of the air and pull more heat from the rotor, not a spray from something like your windshield sprayer.
This is why a high pressure pump is potentially required in conjunction with a special nozzle.
I am presently working on some custom ducting and am planning on integrating this with the sprayer. I will let you know how it works.
You would have a point if you got the rotor scorching hot and then sprayed it down with a hose pipe. What we are suggesting here is a mist that will increase the density of the air and pull more heat from the rotor, not a spray from something like your windshield sprayer.
This is why a high pressure pump is potentially required in conjunction with a special nozzle.
I am presently working on some custom ducting and am planning on integrating this with the sprayer. I will let you know how it works.
May 10, 2005, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by JTB
To all those concerned about warping:
Here's a good article: http://www.opentracking.com/water_cooling_brakes.htm
I think the secret here is a super fine mist sprayer. You don't want to get the rotor wet, but increase the mass in the air stream to absorb more heat. Something H2O is very good at.
Regardless, I think air ducting is a better idea.
Last edited by mayhem; May 10, 2005 at 01:32 PM.
May 10, 2005, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by mayhem
You should have asked this in the motorsports section and not the bling section. So far you've got very little good advice and a lot of comments from people who don't know a thing about brake systems. I've heard "slotted rotors" and someone recommended a Hawk street pad.
Here's a good article: http://www.opentracking.com/water_cooling_brakes.htm
I think the secret here is a super fine mist sprayer. You don't want to get the rotor wet, but increase the mass in the air stream to absorb more heat. Something H2O is very good at.
Regardless, I think air ducting is a better idea.
Here's a good article: http://www.opentracking.com/water_cooling_brakes.htm
I think the secret here is a super fine mist sprayer. You don't want to get the rotor wet, but increase the mass in the air stream to absorb more heat. Something H2O is very good at.
Regardless, I think air ducting is a better idea.
You are correct -- this is a bit of a bling section. I guess I saw brakes in the title and figured it might be appropriate.
If I do get around to doing this I will definately write up a review.
May 10, 2005, 09:18 PM
#26
Having a water injection system on my car I've considered putting a small aquamist nozzle into each brake duct. The only thing that held me back was that in 30 min my rear wiper reservoir was almost empty with a .4 nozzle after the turbo and .6 nozzle just before the throttle body. If I upgrade the reservoir size I'll wire in a switch that controls a valve to the lines feeding the brakes so it can be activated to come on after the brakes are warm. Aquamist nozzles at 100 PSI come out in a fog so there is no chance that this will warp your brakes while they are spinning at 130 Mph and at track temps. This will spray into the engine and brakes whenever the car is past 8 PSI of boost so it will not be on when under heavy braking. This will control brake temps quite well and it's just a matter of time before I get it up and running on my Eclipse. I've always noticed that brakes seem to last forever when on the road course if it is raining out. With large 4" brake ducts you are getting the same effect whenever a car is in front of you spraying you down until they let you pass. 
Granted you aren't getting up to the same speeds, but AWD and good tires sure allows you to accelerate around the track at almost normal speeds while everyone else is scared out of their wits! 
Granted you aren't getting up to the same speeds, but AWD and good tires sure allows you to accelerate around the track at almost normal speeds while everyone else is scared out of their wits!
Mar 15, 2008, 05:23 PM
#27
Having a water injection system on my car I've considered putting a small aquamist nozzle into each brake duct. The only thing that held me back was that in --- getting the same effect whenever a car is in front of you spraying you down until they let you pass. Granted you aren't getting up to the same speeds, but AWD and good tires sure allows you to accelerate around the track at almost normal speeds while everyone else is scared out of their wits!
Granted you aren't getting up to the same speeds, but AWD and good tires sure allows you to accelerate around the track at almost normal speeds while everyone else is scared out of their wits! 
