DAM...! by the looks of the rotor's you heated them up pretty good...

 

on top of the mishap, I wonder how many people are going to chime in...?

But then again Im sure RotorPro's would be fine for 98% of the people on EvoM who dont track their car, as for the other 2% you better get name brand...!

 

Once again for the millionth time, they are name brand, they are the same rotor (down to the part #) as stoptech. They are both centric rotors. I cannot believe people still do not understand this.

george3,

That's a huge bummer that happened, I would call rotorpros and/or centric and let them know about that, you obviously got a bad rotor. I've been through pairs of "rotorpros" rotors on the track with no issues at all, and I am not nice to them.

One question, did those rotors have black hats or silver like the rest of the rotor when they where new?

 

Looks like there wasn't any air ducting. Hard to tell. To bad you didn't have any heat tape or paint on there so we could tell how hot they got.

 

My car had performance pads and a Forge Brake Duct Cooling kit. I never had this bad a problem with ANY of my other rotors that I've had. Like I said... I'm lucky I didn't kill myself.

Maybe I should call RotorPros about this. Everyone I've talked to said it's the worst crack they've EVER seen.

 

The rotors were all silver. I didn't get the yellow or red bling hats.

 

razorlab

And what I have been saying is that they are NOT the Stoptech rotors - but they are likely a Centric rotor.

Centric IMPORTS 2 different lines of Chinese rotors - the economy line p/n 121.46064/5 and the 'premium' line 120.46064/5

(Notice i said IMPORTS not makes - they don't MAKE anything)

By there pricing - there is no way these are made from the 120's.

Do you people even read?

That said - that is still a catastrophic failure that is pretty rare. I've put plenty of cheap Chinese rotors (although not Centric's) on Marty Grands T2 car and his calipers are black like that of course. They never failed like that - they cracked normally and were replaced when done.

In the OP's case - I might consider too rapid heat up or cool down, a defective unit (which is the issue w/ cheap stuff - quality control is HORRIBLE), or it's possible they introduce some risers when they machine the rotors. I'd need to look at the rotors closely to try to see where the crack originated and or the path it spread by.

Also to the OP - you are turning the calipers black - that means that you are fairly overwhelming the brakes on the car. Unless you are in a class that does not allow BBK's - you might want to consider one for peace of mind. Better rotors have iron with higher toughness which generally impedes fast fracture like that but you can still get plate separation in extreme cases. It doesn't go through to that hat like that though.

 

Well, duh....

Maybe they should put on a warning label on the rotors,
like on a pack of cigarettes:

"WARNING: Do Not Use These Rotors On The Track"

???

 

The heat checking is pretty severe on those. I can't quite tell if the microcracks are really opened up or are at the perimeter - but they were at least really close to being ready for replacement.

Also - I think there are potential issues w/ zinc coating and hydrogen embrittlement. That's a sub-yield failure.

(searching my brain - but I know some cadmium and metallic coatings have done this)

I know what they feels like on track btw - pretty darn scary to lose brakes huh? Happened to me at Summit POint going into T10.

 

stoptechs are centrics, centrics are stoptechs. I can understand that some people want to make a profit on the "higher" priced stoptech rotor so they will say they are not centrics, but they are, sorry to burst the bubble.

I think you need to read more as well.

All the centric "rotorpro" rotors I have used have the SAME PART NUMBER as the stoptechs I have used.

All big and bold since I think that is probably the 10th time I have posted that.

 

Not even close. 2 Weekends, bro. That's only 4 track days! My fingernail test does not even stop when glancing across the rotor. The microcracks were just beginning and NOT severe at all.

RE: Summit Point
There was a fatality there at the November 8-9 NASA race.
CAUSE: Rotor cracked and exploded just before T1.
(_I was at Thunderbolt that weekend_)

 

I really think you got a bad set, again i've used sets and sets of these on track with no issues and I have blackbos just like you.

 

I still thinks its a combination of pads used and technique. At this point you are clearly overwhelming the brakes. A BBK might be right for you and your tracking. I still think you will have these issues - have you tired logging braking zones and time on the brakes. You might want to look into software that can do that. Or have someone tape you all around the track - something is wrong somewhere.

 

Thanks for you comments, but my brake zones are short and hard -- as they should be. I'm an experienced driver with Evo's, WRX's, Porsche Boxster S's and Porsche GT3 (my other track car).

I am also a certified NASA and PCA driving instructor. I don't lay on the brakes light and long like a lot of newbies. I've used OEM rotors on the EVO, Stoptech, and white box and I have NEVER even come close to having such a problem.

Yes, there's something wrong here, but it's not my driving style.

 

ok ok

Have you talked to the other instructors out there? Maybe you are missing something. Do they notice anything? Maybe the calipers are sticking, building up heat all over the track. Being that beaten - are they working 100%?

Anyone make Carbon-Ceramic discs for us? Too bad the Porsche ones don't fit. Maybe a retrofit job there...