Brake Nightmare Dam Brembros
#16
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Originally Posted by 00R101
There is tons of misinformation on this thread.
1) Most shaking that people experience are not warped rotors. It's just uneven pad buildup. This happens most often when either the pads or rotors are new (or resurfaced) and there is only light braking. To get rid of pad buildup on rotors do 3-5 hard stops from 50-10 (not to a full stop). Then drive around for a few miles without using the brakes. You need to work through the shake until you heat the rotors up enough to burn off the foreign matter on them.
regards,
alan
1) Most shaking that people experience are not warped rotors. It's just uneven pad buildup. This happens most often when either the pads or rotors are new (or resurfaced) and there is only light braking. To get rid of pad buildup on rotors do 3-5 hard stops from 50-10 (not to a full stop). Then drive around for a few miles without using the brakes. You need to work through the shake until you heat the rotors up enough to burn off the foreign matter on them.
regards,
alan
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i got 18,000 out of my stocks, with some decent abuse on them, had them cut, they lasted 1200 mi before warping again... also you dont need new brakes when replacing rotors, you just need to bed them in again... unless the pad is messed up for some reason..
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What most of us have experienced is "Uneven pad transfer," not warped rotors. In a nutshell, and extremely simplified. It usually is caused by not bedding-in the pads, or not doing so properly. But it can happen even if you bedded-in the pads. When you bed-in pads, you apply a layer of pad material to the disc. Over time that layer gets scrubbed off by the brake pads, then one day you are required to stop the car from a high rate of speed. At that point you leave an imprint of the pads on the discs, and everytime that "imprint" makes a revolution you add more pad material onto the imprint, thus you have a raised section of pad material on the discs which causes the shudder. Once you have the dreaded "uneven pad transfer," aggressive braking will only worsen this condition. At this point you either machine the rotors or get a more aggressive pad to remove the"uneven pad transfer." For a detailed explanation see: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
Furthermore, I know people will tell you not to cut rotors, but you can cut your rotors, provided you maintain about .6mm - 1mm above the minimum rotor thickness after machining. Also, don't forget to re-bed the pads--new or used. And make it a habit to periodically re-bed your pads to minimize the chance of it happening again.
Furthermore, I know people will tell you not to cut rotors, but you can cut your rotors, provided you maintain about .6mm - 1mm above the minimum rotor thickness after machining. Also, don't forget to re-bed the pads--new or used. And make it a habit to periodically re-bed your pads to minimize the chance of it happening again.
Last edited by Bogie; Sep 25, 2005 at 01:16 PM.
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Update
Good lord these brakes are a pain in the rear. The car is becoming more of a pain then my girlfriend is
Ok I took the car to Mitsubishi. They cut the new Stoptech rotars I bought. Put on new pads from mitsubishi. They also installed new hardware? Clips and crap? Tonight Im going out to Bed in the pads. The car feels amazing buy the way.
Ok I took the car to Mitsubishi. They cut the new Stoptech rotars I bought. Put on new pads from mitsubishi. They also installed new hardware? Clips and crap? Tonight Im going out to Bed in the pads. The car feels amazing buy the way.
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wow .. . This is super interesting... Because I got the shakes as well.....
Anyway so if I do have to get new rotors and pads what is the best bang for the buck. And please don't tell me that the OEM ones are......
Anyway so if I do have to get new rotors and pads what is the best bang for the buck. And please don't tell me that the OEM ones are......
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Originally Posted by EVONation
wow .. . This is super interesting... Because I got the shakes as well.....
Anyway so if I do have to get new rotors and pads what is the best bang for the buck. And please don't tell me that the OEM ones are......
Anyway so if I do have to get new rotors and pads what is the best bang for the buck. And please don't tell me that the OEM ones are......
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...otor+group+buy
#26
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Originally Posted by TurboWill
This will look pretty funny, me braking from 60mph down to 10mph ten times. Im going to have to go out to the beach parking lot.
Originally Posted by TurboWill
Good lord these brakes are a pain in the rear. The car is becoming more of a pain then my girlfriend is
Moreover, I have used the stock pads, Hawk HP Plus, and Ferodo DS2500. Out of those three, the Hawk were the most expensive (at the time; the stockers might be more expensive presently)--and the noisiest, but did not suffer from uneven pad transfer like the other two.
Last edited by Bogie; Sep 22, 2005 at 02:49 PM.
#27
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These are the same ones we are selling but the price has gone up. If we had 6-10 people we could knock $10 off. Rotors only are available at our site.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=158002
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=158002
Originally Posted by ez
#28
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Update Again
Ok I followed the brake bed in directions that stoptech provided. I went down to my local beach parking lot. it is huge, and on a weekday afternoon it empty
Ten times I went from 60-10mph. braked as hard as I could. Never came to a dead stop like the directions said. After a bout 5 times you could really smell the brakes!
After 10 times I drove around and let the brakes cool down. Then I parked my car for a half hour and let them cool down. After 30 minutes I did the same thin, ten times brake hard, never stop. Then I just drove home. Its like night and day compared to how they were to days ago. Thank god for this forum, or i would probably be back in the same boat agin in a few days.
Ten times I went from 60-10mph. braked as hard as I could. Never came to a dead stop like the directions said. After a bout 5 times you could really smell the brakes!
After 10 times I drove around and let the brakes cool down. Then I parked my car for a half hour and let them cool down. After 30 minutes I did the same thin, ten times brake hard, never stop. Then I just drove home. Its like night and day compared to how they were to days ago. Thank god for this forum, or i would probably be back in the same boat agin in a few days.
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i have some vibrations during high speed braking but its livable.... i wish i knew about proper brake-in when i bought my evo back in 2003.... oh well, not the one to complain about alil noise and vibrations... its a friggin evo, not a lex! hehe
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Originally Posted by mifesto
i have some vibrations during high speed braking but its livable.... i wish i knew about proper brake-in when i bought my evo back in 2003.... oh well, not the one to complain about alil noise and vibrations... its a friggin evo, not a lex! hehe