WTF is up with the warping stock front rotors?
Sep 21, 2005, 09:36 AM
#17
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: SoCal / Princeton, NJ
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by upstateEVO
Turning the rotors removed the pad material that caused a high spot on the rotor. I had this same problem that I thought was warped rotors, but after some research here I found the pad transfer problem.
I solved my problem by changing my brake pads. I switched to Hawk HP+, and after bedding the pads properly the problem is all but gone. Occasionally the hawks will leave an uneven pad transfer, but a couple hard stops 70-10 will fix it.
What I read is that the stock pads are soft and when they're hot they leave build up after sitting. I tried rebedding the stock pads, and this worked for a while. however the problem would come back after parking with the ebrake on when the brakes were hot, or it was hot outside.
good luck!
I solved my problem by changing my brake pads. I switched to Hawk HP+, and after bedding the pads properly the problem is all but gone. Occasionally the hawks will leave an uneven pad transfer, but a couple hard stops 70-10 will fix it.
What I read is that the stock pads are soft and when they're hot they leave build up after sitting. I tried rebedding the stock pads, and this worked for a while. however the problem would come back after parking with the ebrake on when the brakes were hot, or it was hot outside.
good luck!
So it wouldn't be recommended to try to get the stealership to put some new pads on? I mean, why doesn't this happen to everyone, I wonder? I bought this car to keep miles off of my 911 and am keeping it bone stock for warranty's sake. I'd like to use the warranty since it's there for a reason.
Suggestion?
Sep 21, 2005, 09:47 AM
#18
Evolved Member
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Hanover, Pa
Posts: 572
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I wouldnt worry about aftermarket pads causing warranty issues because after 12 months or 12,000 miles, there is no warranty on your pads or rotors anyway.
Originally Posted by Euromagination
Ahhh! Now that makes sense. I think this is what 'machron' was saying too.
So it wouldn't be recommended to try to get the stealership to put some new pads on? I mean, why doesn't this happen to everyone, I wonder? I bought this car to keep miles off of my 911 and am keeping it bone stock for warranty's sake. I'd like to use the warranty since it's there for a reason.
Suggestion?
So it wouldn't be recommended to try to get the stealership to put some new pads on? I mean, why doesn't this happen to everyone, I wonder? I bought this car to keep miles off of my 911 and am keeping it bone stock for warranty's sake. I'd like to use the warranty since it's there for a reason.
Suggestion?
Sep 21, 2005, 10:23 AM
#19
From what I hear, people generally are saying "I don't use my brakes hard at all and they are warping" which in all likelyhood doesn't happen. I use my brakes hard as hell, aka canyon carving, auto-x, track days, etc. & never had a problem. Maybe people aren't using their brakes hard enough?
If you are looking for aftermarket pads I would suggest Ferodo DS2500's. If you use plenty of Permatex Copper anti-seize, and both the metal shims and the shims you have to peel off the stock pads w/ a razorblade, you shouldn't get noise, and those pads have enough metal in them that you shouldn't get significant pad transfer. Just bed them in as per their instructions and you shouldn't have a problem. YMMV.
If you are looking for aftermarket pads I would suggest Ferodo DS2500's. If you use plenty of Permatex Copper anti-seize, and both the metal shims and the shims you have to peel off the stock pads w/ a razorblade, you shouldn't get noise, and those pads have enough metal in them that you shouldn't get significant pad transfer. Just bed them in as per their instructions and you shouldn't have a problem. YMMV.
Sep 21, 2005, 10:36 AM
#20
Newbie
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: South City- San Fran
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rotors warped
My rotors warped at 10,000 and then again at 13,000 miles. I think this is bull*%$, a $35,000 with cheap rotors or pads. So, my question now is what are you guy's upgrading too and how are they working for you? Anybody have the Racing brake rotors or Project mu brake pads?
Sep 21, 2005, 10:51 AM
#21
Yes, we have heard that this is a common problem amongst EVO owners. Here is your solution:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=156374
Photos are in the thread, but more direct here:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...0&postcount=15
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=156374
Photos are in the thread, but more direct here:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...0&postcount=15
Sep 21, 2005, 01:01 PM
#22
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: SoCal / Princeton, NJ
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by 58177
My rotors warped at 10,000 and then again at 13,000 miles. I think this is bull*%$, a $35,000 with cheap rotors or pads. So, my question now is what are you guy's upgrading too and how are they working for you? Anybody have the Racing brake rotors or Project mu brake pads?
Has there been an organized effort to consult Mitsubishi about the ****ty pad/rotors combination?
Sep 21, 2005, 01:08 PM
#23
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: SoCal / Princeton, NJ
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by sdoow
Yes, we have heard that this is a common problem amongst EVO owners. Here is your solution:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=156374
Photos are in the thread, but more direct here:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...0&postcount=15
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=156374
Photos are in the thread, but more direct here:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...0&postcount=15
I dont see how upgrading to slotted rotors is gonna solve this if the pads are the problem. Do the slots rid the brake dust as the pad passes each vane maybe, or do the slots just rid the hot gas?? At any rate, my stock rotors have plenty of life left and I intend to get the rest of the life out. When they're dead, I'll probably look you up though.
BTW, the main problem with this, to me, is not the money, but the priniciple. This should not be happening on a $35k vehicle with 16k miles, and if it does, Mitsubishi should NOT be getting away with such a common problem. If I were the only one with this problem, I would understand. But it's not...
Last edited by Euromagination; Sep 21, 2005 at 01:11 PM.
Sep 21, 2005, 01:12 PM
#24
Evolved Member
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Cedarburg, WI
Posts: 963
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've had the same problem. It really is becuase we are to light on the brakes most of the time. I went for some mountain driving one weekend and was getting horrible shutter. I thought it was warped roters also. I did a search and found out about pad transfer. After rebedding the pads the problem went away. I have been to some track days after and have had no problems. Nowadays, i just try to use the brakes hard every once in a while on the street. Good luck!
Sep 21, 2005, 01:28 PM
#25
Originally Posted by Euromagination
Thanks for the offer, but my 911 get all the mod money. Not to mention that I'm anticipating a new clutch in the next year or so that will cost about $4k to change.
I dont see how upgrading to slotted rotors is gonna solve this if the pads are the problem. Do the slots rid the brake dust as the pad passes each vane maybe, or do the slots just rid the hot gas?? At any rate, my stock rotors have plenty of life left and I intend to get the rest of the life out. When they're dead, I'll probably look you up though.
BTW, the main problem with this, to me, is not the money, but the priniciple. This should not be happening on a $35k vehicle with 16k miles, and if it does, Mitsubishi should NOT be getting away with such a common problem. If I were the only one with this problem, I would understand. But it's not...
I dont see how upgrading to slotted rotors is gonna solve this if the pads are the problem. Do the slots rid the brake dust as the pad passes each vane maybe, or do the slots just rid the hot gas?? At any rate, my stock rotors have plenty of life left and I intend to get the rest of the life out. When they're dead, I'll probably look you up though.
BTW, the main problem with this, to me, is not the money, but the priniciple. This should not be happening on a $35k vehicle with 16k miles, and if it does, Mitsubishi should NOT be getting away with such a common problem. If I were the only one with this problem, I would understand. But it's not...
I think you might gain a better appreciation, or at least a better understanding, of the nature of your car if you consider its roots and heritage. Your 911 is a refined street machine with just about every quirk worked out. They are not too shabby on the track either, and they cost quite a lot just for the basic 911. Your Evo on the other hand was created back in the days of WRC homologation rules. They basically took a rather pedestrian box and strapped racing parts on it, refined it for the sole purpose of racing, then produced as few as possible to get away with calling it a production car. Since 1999 the homologation rules have gone, but the heritage is still there. As other people have pointed out, the brakes seem to like some hard use once in a while to keep the "compromise" pads from shedding hunks of material. I dont' think they run around the Nurburgring at a crawl to make sure this doesn't happen. I personally don't see the point in not using them hard. It's not as if you have a refined country-club parking lot looker underneath you, you have a cheap Lancer with enough racing parts on it to rip apart most tracks quite handily at the expense of refined street driving. I'm sure the designers make no apologies for these kinds of problems, as I'm sure they accomplished their main goals quite nicely.
Sep 21, 2005, 01:43 PM
#26
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: SoCal / Princeton, NJ
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by machron1
The slots resurface the pad each time they scrape across them. Probably not ideal for the track although many people disagree, but definitely good for street driving.
I think you might gain a better appreciation, or at least a better understanding, of the nature of your car if you consider its roots and heritage. Your 911 is a refined street machine with just about every quirk worked out. They are not too shabby on the track either, and they cost quite a lot just for the basic 911. Your Evo on the other hand was created back in the days of WRC homologation rules. They basically took a rather pedestrian box and strapped racing parts on it, refined it for the sole purpose of racing, then produced as few as possible to get away with calling it a production car. Since 1999 the homologation rules have gone, but the heritage is still there. As other people have pointed out, the brakes seem to like some hard use once in a while to keep the "compromise" pads from shedding hunks of material. I dont' think they run around the Nurburgring at a crawl to make sure this doesn't happen. I personally don't see the point in not using them hard. It's not as if you have a refined country-club parking lot looker underneath you, you have a cheap Lancer with enough racing parts on it to rip apart most tracks quite handily at the expense of refined street driving. I'm sure the designers make no apologies for these kinds of problems, as I'm sure they accomplished their main goals quite nicely.
I think you might gain a better appreciation, or at least a better understanding, of the nature of your car if you consider its roots and heritage. Your 911 is a refined street machine with just about every quirk worked out. They are not too shabby on the track either, and they cost quite a lot just for the basic 911. Your Evo on the other hand was created back in the days of WRC homologation rules. They basically took a rather pedestrian box and strapped racing parts on it, refined it for the sole purpose of racing, then produced as few as possible to get away with calling it a production car. Since 1999 the homologation rules have gone, but the heritage is still there. As other people have pointed out, the brakes seem to like some hard use once in a while to keep the "compromise" pads from shedding hunks of material. I dont' think they run around the Nurburgring at a crawl to make sure this doesn't happen. I personally don't see the point in not using them hard. It's not as if you have a refined country-club parking lot looker underneath you, you have a cheap Lancer with enough racing parts on it to rip apart most tracks quite handily at the expense of refined street driving. I'm sure the designers make no apologies for these kinds of problems, as I'm sure they accomplished their main goals quite nicely.
I have no problem running a car hard (or I wouldn't own either of the ones I do), but I didn't know that NOT being hard on something that has even tighter design specs could be so, how can i say... negative. (Other than not fully revving a car out to near the redline decently often as it should be. But this is not a problem for me)
These are performance cars so they're designed for it as you're pretty much saying. I guess I just haven't had a reason to really get on the brakes since, like I said, this is my DD. I love the car and like to baby it as much as I do my Porsche.Guess I'll go do some hard braking to see if that at least temporarily solves this. If not, onto new pads for sure as suggested.
Have a good one.
Sep 21, 2005, 01:50 PM
#27
Evolving Member
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 208
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The rotors that come on our car are made by brembo (stamped on the rotor). Its brembos rotors that are failing and its mitsu's fault for putting crap rotors on the car. Kind of a double fault......
Sep 21, 2005, 02:05 PM
#28
Evolved Member
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: From Ohio, now in N. Virginia
Posts: 1,666
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by upstateEVO
I solved my problem by changing my brake pads. I switched to Hawk HP+, and after bedding the pads properly the problem is all but gone. Occasionally the hawks will leave an uneven pad transfer, but a couple hard stops 70-10 will fix it.
good luck!
Sep 21, 2005, 04:47 PM
#29
Evolving Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: centex
Posts: 223
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
warping
Yeah, I have problems with them warping too. But I'm at 35k miles and have only had that happen twice. But then again, I don't drive hard on them that often.
The main thing that I have learned is to make sure you have a pretty decent warm-up and cool-down period when pushing the brakes. Otherwise, they WILL warp. I always do 5-10 easy breaking runs before applying full brake pressure, especially during lapping days/autocrosses.
Luffy
The main thing that I have learned is to make sure you have a pretty decent warm-up and cool-down period when pushing the brakes. Otherwise, they WILL warp. I always do 5-10 easy breaking runs before applying full brake pressure, especially during lapping days/autocrosses.
Luffy
