Euromagination

My front rotors have warped and had to be machined THREE (yes, three) times already, and now it just happened again a couple of days ago!

What is the deal with this and what have some of you done to permanently solve the problem? The dealer simply re-machines them, but I think a new set should be put on. Then again, if the new set is made just like the current set, I'll be having the same problems anyway. What the hell?

Any input?

Ty-Evo8

iTrader: (8)

Same crap happened to me. I have had my rotors machined twice, and they are warped again. Now that I am not doing as much highway driving it doesn't bother me as much, or I should say I don't notice it as much, but I am still pissed. I am less than 3000 miles from my warranty being over so I don't think mitsu would help me. I have had bad experiences already trying to get stuff fixed/replaced. The sad thing is when I got mine machined the second time another guy was in getting his first oil change on a 05' (3000 mile one) and he said his were warped as well, so mitsu machined his and mine at the same time.

My personal suggestion is to save up some cash and buy some GOOD aftermarket ones. You should be able to pick up a front set of rotors for 3-500 bucks. That is what I am doing.

Good luck.

EVOL 8

damn, how many miles do you have. I'm at 35K no probs, still on stock rotors.

Curt@MrLed

iTrader: (107)

you cant machine the stock rotors, they are kind of 1 time use.. if you need new factory fronts i have 2 of them..

Euromagination

I'm at 16k miles! I'm not even hard on the brakes at all. I actually drive my Evo pretty lightly as it's my daily driver/grocery getter. I can't believe this crap. I've never heard of so many problems with warping in my life.

PA-silver03evo

iTrader: (7)

Mine warped at like 7,000 miles but I have just put up with it since then. I have 26,000 now and they are a little worse but not all that much more than when they first started. I never wanted to take it to the dealer to get turned because by now, there wouldnt be any material left. I will probably just get new rotors when I put my new pads on since it seems like turning the stock ones only temporarily fixes it.

Euromagination

What do u mean u can't machine them? You surely can. I've watched the dealerships do it. It's not like the Evo rotors are of special material like silicon carbide or anything.

Explain to me if I'm missing something?

ksattic

iTrader: (5)

Mine warped at 5K, am at 5.5K now. The Evo VIII warranty specifies only one free machining for the front rotors, doesn't it?

I feel the vibration in the front wheels pretty badly when braking at 75MPH+, but hardly anything at all at lower speeds.

Might have to fit some of those Girodiscs after reading the feature!

https://www.evolutionm.net/features/...vomfeatures/48

machron1

iTrader: (1)

I would take it to a place that has heard of pad transfer and have them look for it. There are ways to distinguish between pad transfer & warpped rotors. I have a hard time believing you warped rotors. I put 30K miles on my rotors, multiple track days, 4 sets of pads including track pads, and never had anything but a slight shimmy from pad transfer that lasted about half a lap and went away. Other than that they have stayed straight and true.

Euromagination

Hmm...

But putting some logic into this... Why, if the rotors are not warping, did the turning of them by the dealer make the problem go away? Is the thickness variation coming back over time or waht?

Pad transfer can be solved with new pads, no?

GOKOU

iTrader: (2)

Same crap happen to me too so I got aftermarket rotors. I couldn't believe how much the brake/rotors cost to be craping out this early. or brembo is

FRom what I hear and aree it's the damn stock pads. Resurface the rotors and get another set of pads, hawks, autozone, or whatever. Bed it properly and he should be set.

upstateEVO

iTrader: (1)

Turning the rotors removed the pad material that caused a high spot on the rotor. I had this same problem that I thought was warped rotors, but after some research here I found the pad transfer problem.

I solved my problem by changing my brake pads. I switched to Hawk HP+, and after bedding the pads properly the problem is all but gone. Occasionally the hawks will leave an uneven pad transfer, but a couple hard stops 70-10 will fix it.

What I read is that the stock pads are soft and when they're hot they leave build up after sitting. I tried rebedding the stock pads, and this worked for a while. however the problem would come back after parking with the ebrake on when the brakes were hot, or it was hot outside.

good luck!

Greg K

iTrader: (2)

be careful of how your torque your lugnuts too. If you are putting them on with an impact gun and running one nut down before the rest you will be way overtorqued on that one nut. this will cause uneven clampup and effect the way that the rotor expands and contracts with thermal cycling which will lead to premature warpage.

I never use an impact gun, I run all the nuts down hand tight first, then torque them all to 60ft-lb and then proceed to about 80ft-lb.

16000 miles and no brake issues whatsoever.

Also ebrake use has nothing to do with pad buildup on the front rotors. (refering to the post above)

YMMV,

Greg

smack_evo

iTrader: (4)

this is pretty much always caused by bad pad transfer, but the problem that can happen(in extreme cases like hard track use) is that
the high spots keep getting more heat in them an can eventually harden that spot on the rotor.
so even when you turn them to true everything up the hardened spots don't wear as quick as the
"softer" parts of the rest of the rotor surface and the high spot come back.

Curt@MrLed

iTrader: (107)

okay, how times have they been cut now.. its not that you cant, its just wasting time doing it... all of us that cut them they just warp again real quick...