SP00LIN

iTrader: (6)

Hi all.

I installed Hotchkis springs and a Hotchkis rear sway bar to my 8. I gave it a few days and then had the alignment done today. I'm a little nervous about these numbers. Am I okay?

Tow = 0 front/rear
Front camber = -.9 - It can't be adjusted due to the springs.
Rear camber = -1.8

The guy at the shop told me I should be okay and the alignment is still pretty aggressive. I really enjoy canyon carving so I like an aggressive alignment. I obviously don't want premature tire wear though. I also don't want positive camber in the rear. I'm hoping it'll be okay. It feels pretty nice to drive.

What do you think?

mybada

iTrader: (5)

Actually, with -1.8 rear camber you WILL have some inside tire wear plus understeer.
Try less agressive rear camber like -0.5, but then it also depends on how hard you set your rear swar bar at.

Killboy

iTrader: (2)

You shouldn't be nervous about it, there's nothing dramatic there. Like mybada said, the rear camber is relatively over-cambered compared to the front, which will just make the rear hook up so much better than the front that the car will push. A lot of racer-types run camber like that in the rear, but more aggressive camber in the front, like -2-3 to balance it out. It'll handle much better, but tire wear will be hurtin'.

I'm not a fan of zero toe on the front though. There is always SOME slop in the steering mechanics and dialing just a LITTLE toe in or out will keep enough pressure on the parts to keep the car more stable in a straight line. A little toe in generally helps with high-speed stability and toe out will improve low speed turn-in but can make the car feel "darty" at faster speeds. I have mine set at 1/16" of toe out on each side, 1/8" total toe out because I live in the mountains and spend a lot of time on tight roads.

SP00LIN

iTrader: (6)

I have the sway bar set at 27%, which is the middle setting.

Have the rear camber set at -.5 would be like driving a Ford Taurus! I'm wondering if I can't somehow adjust the front to make it more negative camber. I heard by switching a bolt around, I could get the front camber to drop from -.9 to -1.9. Would having that with a -1.8 in the rear be pretty good?

I figure it's still less than -2, which seems to be pretty popular, but it might spare me a little longer treadlife with the tires.

Oh, and Killboy - I read your post about the Perrin sway bar and end links. Do you think they would work well with the Hotchkis sway bar? Can you tell much difference with them on?

Killboy

iTrader: (2)

I'm running -2.8 camber front and -1.0 in the rear, and with the relatively thick swaybar, it's pretty impressive. I haven't played around with settings much yet though, so there are probably better settings.

The Perrin end-links should work with any swaybar, even the stocker realy. They just replace the stock endlinks. I can't say whether they made any difference because I installed them at the same time I put the sway bar on. I wouldn't think it would be a huge difference, but they have GOT to be more precise than the stock rubber cups.

evo_rc

iTrader: (20)

where did you get your alignment? network?

Killboy

iTrader: (2)

I got mine aligned a little tire shop here in town. They have a optical type of alignment, no lasers. I've been told to try and avoid the laser alignment shops because the owners often allow the equipment to go out of calibration and it will continue to function, just incorrectly. Optical alignment requires simple calibration each time it is used for it to even work.

Interestingly, the system they were using was updated each year with "all" of the new cars and their respective alignment specifications. But when he went to pull up my Evo, it was not on the list for 2005/Mitsu. It listed every other car made, but no Evo. Even the 2004 Mitsu list did not have the Evo. Didn't really matter though because I brought in my own target measurements and they just used those.

SP00LIN

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, I went to the Network over on Cave Creek Rd. Scott was the guy that helped me. They seem like a good outfit. Fast. On time. Good prices. I'd go back.

evo_rc

iTrader: (20)

i paid 80$ at network alignment on main...how much did they charge you? I need an alignment soon...

SP00LIN

iTrader: (6)

They charged me $60. Took good care of me. Go check them out.

evo_rc

iTrader: (20)

thats good price... they charged me 20$ extra because its lowered, when my drop is the same as yours.... Ill give them a call and ask for scott....thx...

Soon2BEVO

iTrader: (41)

Here is my alignment which I did today with my brother (mechanic at Toyota). The mechanics are allowed to work on their cars in the shop on Tuesdays so I got to do this for free! My rear toe was WAY OFF.

I actually decided to do the alignment just because my steering wheel was vibrating a lot and my gas mileage was getting bad. On the drive home.... what a difference.

This was my 3rd alignment.

1st: 4500 miles right after spring installation
2nd: 18000 miles
3rd: today, at 33000 miles!

Killboy

iTrader: (2)

I wonder why your rear toe was thrown out? I can see the front being affected by hitting a pot-hole or something, but it seems unusual for the rear to get thrown off like that. I wonder if they left something a little loose back there the last time.

When I got mine adjusted this morning, it was the first time since I put my coilovers (JIC) on and lowered the front about 3". My combined front toe-in was one and a half INCHES!