EVOlutionary

iTrader: (38)

Last year the boost control would have bumped you out of ESP, but this year in BSP you can mess with boost and also timing and fuel. Basically anything you woul d do to tune the engine. Some guys reflash, some run piggybacks. I don't know if full standalones are allowed in SP classes. For SP classes you cannot change the turbo at all. Ceramic coating the hotside is probably ok, but any internal porting is probably a no-no. A 20G-9 would be a definite no-no.

Anyway, are you planning on doing more AX and or road races this year?? Before too long you'll be too busy to drag race anymore!

EVOlutionary

scorke

iTrader: (18)

At what level would your turbo get teched?, nationals.............Not suggesting anybody should run one in BSP but I'm sure those wanting it bad enough will do things like that.

Scorke

voidhawk

iTrader: (20)

give it a try - after setting some toe out in the rear, my butt keeps trying to tell me I have 4 wheel steering. It made a lot of difference in making the car feel more agile. Too much will make it twitchy at high speeds though (100+) so 1/16th is probably about right. Also any toe will increase tire wear on the inside edge, but that's the price you pay .

Warrtalon

iTrader: (6)

Yes, certainly. People have a misconception that I'm just a drag racer, but that's mainly because my measurable accomplishments have mostly been in drag racing. I am doing the entire SCCA-RM season this year to include the Denver National Tour and Denver ProSolo events. I also am participating in the full season of road racing with NASA-RM, which was just established this year, so I'm lucky. I'm trying to graduate through the end of HPDE3 so I can do time trials next year.

The drag racing will be more for putting down new times to prove the value of new mods. My goal is to hit 11s on the stock turbo at this altitude (5000-6000'). The local Evos say it can't be done, so we shall see.

number 8

iTrader: (7)

So whats the most fun you have with the Evo in the motorsports arena? Drag, road course, autox etc. ?

Warrtalon

iTrader: (6)

Easily in this order for me:

Road Racing > Auto-X > Drag

No contest.

Warrtalon

iTrader: (6)

Now that I've used and abused my V710s for a season, I'd like to respond to this comment.

I did not get them heat cycled, since it was an extra $60 and since I thought I could sorta do it myself, but I was wrong. My tires wore very quickly and didn't last as long as I expected. Now, I did shorten their lives considerably by racing around the PMI road course a bunch, which is known to eat tires for breakfast, but still. They didn't just cord earlier than expected, but the last few autocrosses before they corded, I just didn't feel like I was on r-comps. I couldn't tell if it was my driving or the brakes, but once they corded on the road course, it led me to believe I was simply racing on r-comps that didn't work anymore.

My new set I got heat-cycled, and I hope they last a while and are highly effective for a longer duration than my first set.

wrcwannabe

iTrader: (1)

-2.0/-2.0 is too much camber in the rear. For serious autox use this : -3 F/ -1r

Use 1/8" toe out at rear and front. Car will be a little twitchy on the street but will turn in very well on the course.

Why only -1 in the rear? You want the rear out faster. this means reducing traction at the rear. -1 will allow the rear end to rotate faster. Also if you have an adjustable sway bar like Progress Hotchkis etc, set it at medium and work your way to full stiff. Then gradually add in trail braking.

The car will be faster if you're not 3 wheeling. That shows you do not have enough spring rate on the front. Yes front. You could add a stiffer bar up front but more spring would work better. Spring rates should be in the neighborhood of 500f/550r for real serious work

Check the rollover on the front tires. You will be down the sidewall a fair bit at the current spring rate.

In the June issue of GRM, Mark Daddio's 2005 setup for his ESP EVO at the Solo 2 National's was very similar to this IIRC He used 275/40/17 not sure of the brand. on 17x9 or 17x10 .



milburn

Warrtalon

iTrader: (6)

I didn't say -2.0 in the rear. I said -2.0/-2.0 front and -.5/-.5 rear. You can't get -3 on stock suspension.

I tried 1/16th toe, and it didn't work well for me. I also tried -1.5 camber in the rear, but that didn't work well either. The best FOR ME (I stress FOR ME) was the -2.0f/-.5r with 0 toe all around while on stock suspension and 245/45 V710s. I have no sway bars or anything.

Anyway, I wasn't looking for suggestions on swaybars or anything. I was just reviewing the V710s. The new 285s wrapped around NT03+Ms will be mated with an Ohlin setup customized and tuned by Paul Gerrard.

sonicnofadz

iTrader: (4)

This is why the stock suspension is doo doo. Get some coilovers.

Doogie Howser

iTrader: (2)

Could you post up a review after you get your new suspension setup aligned?

Warrtalon

iTrader: (6)

Yep, as always...