Kumho Ecsta V710 Follow-up/Review
#31
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iTrader: (38)
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
I think boost and ECU tuning is allowed in BSP. I know they added boost control this year, but I don't know all the tuning restrictions.
Anyway, are you planning on doing more AX and or road races this year?? Before too long you'll be too busy to drag race anymore!
EVOlutionary
#33
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iTrader: (20)
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
Hmm, you think? Filip, the guy who gave me these specs to try actually said that I might want to try 1/16th toe out, but I just did 0 to be safe. You think that bit of toe out would make a difference in this case?
#34
Originally Posted by EVOlutionary
Anyway, are you planning on doing more AX and or road races this year?? Before too long you'll be too busy to drag race anymore!
The drag racing will be more for putting down new times to prove the value of new mods. My goal is to hit 11s on the stock turbo at this altitude (5000-6000'). The local Evos say it can't be done, so we shall see.
#37
Originally Posted by EVOlutionary
Just FYI for future reference. It is recommended to either purchase them heat cycled or to heat cycle them yourself before actually racing on them. The way you broke them in may very well affect their performance and lifespan (decrease both). See here for more info: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete....jsp?techid=66
I did not get them heat cycled, since it was an extra $60 and since I thought I could sorta do it myself, but I was wrong. My tires wore very quickly and didn't last as long as I expected. Now, I did shorten their lives considerably by racing around the PMI road course a bunch, which is known to eat tires for breakfast, but still. They didn't just cord earlier than expected, but the last few autocrosses before they corded, I just didn't feel like I was on r-comps. I couldn't tell if it was my driving or the brakes, but once they corded on the road course, it led me to believe I was simply racing on r-comps that didn't work anymore.
My new set I got heat-cycled, and I hope they last a while and are highly effective for a longer duration than my first set.
#38
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
-2.0/-2.0 is too much camber in the rear. For serious autox use this : -3 F/ -1r
Use 1/8" toe out at rear and front. Car will be a little twitchy on the street but will turn in very well on the course.
Why only -1 in the rear? You want the rear out faster. this means reducing traction at the rear. -1 will allow the rear end to rotate faster. Also if you have an adjustable sway bar like Progress Hotchkis etc, set it at medium and work your way to full stiff. Then gradually add in trail braking.
The car will be faster if you're not 3 wheeling. That shows you do not have enough spring rate on the front. Yes front. You could add a stiffer bar up front but more spring would work better. Spring rates should be in the neighborhood of 500f/550r for real serious work
Check the rollover on the front tires. You will be down the sidewall a fair bit at the current spring rate.
In the June issue of GRM, Mark Daddio's 2005 setup for his ESP EVO at the Solo 2 National's was very similar to this IIRC He used 275/40/17 not sure of the brand. on 17x9 or 17x10 .
milburn
Use 1/8" toe out at rear and front. Car will be a little twitchy on the street but will turn in very well on the course.
Why only -1 in the rear? You want the rear out faster. this means reducing traction at the rear. -1 will allow the rear end to rotate faster. Also if you have an adjustable sway bar like Progress Hotchkis etc, set it at medium and work your way to full stiff. Then gradually add in trail braking.
The car will be faster if you're not 3 wheeling. That shows you do not have enough spring rate on the front. Yes front. You could add a stiffer bar up front but more spring would work better. Spring rates should be in the neighborhood of 500f/550r for real serious work
Check the rollover on the front tires. You will be down the sidewall a fair bit at the current spring rate.
In the June issue of GRM, Mark Daddio's 2005 setup for his ESP EVO at the Solo 2 National's was very similar to this IIRC He used 275/40/17 not sure of the brand. on 17x9 or 17x10 .
milburn
#39
I didn't say -2.0 in the rear. I said -2.0/-2.0 front and -.5/-.5 rear. You can't get -3 on stock suspension.
I tried 1/16th toe, and it didn't work well for me. I also tried -1.5 camber in the rear, but that didn't work well either. The best FOR ME (I stress FOR ME) was the -2.0f/-.5r with 0 toe all around while on stock suspension and 245/45 V710s. I have no sway bars or anything.
Anyway, I wasn't looking for suggestions on swaybars or anything. I was just reviewing the V710s. The new 285s wrapped around NT03+Ms will be mated with an Ohlin setup customized and tuned by Paul Gerrard.
I tried 1/16th toe, and it didn't work well for me. I also tried -1.5 camber in the rear, but that didn't work well either. The best FOR ME (I stress FOR ME) was the -2.0f/-.5r with 0 toe all around while on stock suspension and 245/45 V710s. I have no sway bars or anything.
Anyway, I wasn't looking for suggestions on swaybars or anything. I was just reviewing the V710s. The new 285s wrapped around NT03+Ms will be mated with an Ohlin setup customized and tuned by Paul Gerrard.
Last edited by Warrtalon; Sep 29, 2006 at 05:13 PM.
#41
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Originally Posted by Warrtalon
I didn't say -2.0 in the rear. I said -2.0/-2.0 front and -.5/-.5 rear. You can't get -3 on stock suspension.
I tried 1/16th toe, and it didn't work well for me. I also tried -1.5 camber in the rear, but that didn't work well either. The best FOR ME (I stress FOR ME) was the -2.0f/-.5r with 0 toe all around while on stock suspension and 245/45 V710s. I have no sway bars or anything.
Anyway, I wasn't looking for suggestions on swaybars or anything. I was just reviewing the V710s. The new 285s wrapped around NT03+Ms will be mated with an Ohlin setup customized and tuned by Paul Gerrard.
I tried 1/16th toe, and it didn't work well for me. I also tried -1.5 camber in the rear, but that didn't work well either. The best FOR ME (I stress FOR ME) was the -2.0f/-.5r with 0 toe all around while on stock suspension and 245/45 V710s. I have no sway bars or anything.
Anyway, I wasn't looking for suggestions on swaybars or anything. I was just reviewing the V710s. The new 285s wrapped around NT03+Ms will be mated with an Ohlin setup customized and tuned by Paul Gerrard.
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