Braking causes steering wheel to shake?
Jul 15, 2007, 07:50 PM
#31
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My steering wheel also shakes over 65mph when a brake... I do know I need tires, aligment Brake Pads.. and my rotors resurface... so I think just a combine of all or some of these problems...
My car has 13k...
My car has 13k...
Jul 15, 2007, 07:59 PM
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My car had 11k and I thought my rotors were warped.. so I did what everyone else did.. New cross drilled and slotted rotors with new oem pads... Guess what shaking and pulsating gone...
BUT...
3k later it was all back! It was so bad from any speed imy steering wheel would shake.. After a spirited drive around town.. I mean track .. it was half as bad. (hard on the brakes from a decent speed multiple times) But its still there and im not buying a 2nd set of rotors within 25k!! I think im going to try the 120 grit sandpaper on a DA and see what happens..
BUT...
3k later it was all back! It was so bad from any speed imy steering wheel would shake.. After a spirited drive around town.. I mean track .. it was half as bad. (hard on the brakes from a decent speed multiple times) But its still there and im not buying a 2nd set of rotors within 25k!! I think im going to try the 120 grit sandpaper on a DA and see what happens..
Jul 16, 2007, 07:12 AM
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unless...as stoptech said....its too late and then you need to....
The only fix for extensive uneven deposits involves dismounting the discs and having them Blanchard ground - not expensive, but inconvenient at best. A newly ground disc will require the same sort of bedding in process as a new disc. The trouble with this procedure is that if the grinding does not remove all of the cementite inclusions, as the disc wears the hard cementite will stand proud of the relatively soft disc and the thermal spiral starts over again. Unfortunately, the cementite is invisible to the naked eye.
or just buy new rotors and do it right. im not preaching. i messed mine up too.
BUT WITH 5K MILES YOU SHOULD BE FINE...
The only fix for extensive uneven deposits involves dismounting the discs and having them Blanchard ground - not expensive, but inconvenient at best. A newly ground disc will require the same sort of bedding in process as a new disc. The trouble with this procedure is that if the grinding does not remove all of the cementite inclusions, as the disc wears the hard cementite will stand proud of the relatively soft disc and the thermal spiral starts over again. Unfortunately, the cementite is invisible to the naked eye.
or just buy new rotors and do it right. im not preaching. i messed mine up too.
BUT WITH 5K MILES YOU SHOULD BE FINE...
i would tend to take the cementite inclusion comments carefully
Look at a phase transformation diagram - cast iron won't change phase until way up near 2000 deg F or so. Not likely w/ street pads that are rated to maybe 800-900 degrees.
The issue almost universally occurs when the brakes are used hard without being bedded well. The pad craps on the rotor and generates the all too common pulsing. This causes the driver to use the the brakes less - which usually just makes it worse.
Rebedding has worked on many occasions - but not always. Sanding/grinding/or a light turn will work - but as mentioned the problem will resurface if similar use is repeated.
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