I also just got my GF210s. Going to install next week. Like usual, im going to put them on, and then drive around on them for a week or so, to let them settle, then get an alignment done. I use my car daily, so i want everything RIGHT ON with the factory specs, or as close as possible. If i opt to have The toe, and camber at 0, is this bad? should i have a little camber up front, like -1?

 

greg,

Is there any particular reason that you want to run 0deg camber up front? Toe should pretty much be 0 all around for most drivers setups (some auto-x guys run some toe for auto-x days, but change back if daily driving) and you should be running some camber up front.

At 0deg front camber, i believe you will be reducing the tire contact patch while cornering (to less than factory) which will negatively affect performance, esp if you are running daily driving type tire pressures (~32psi) and the sidewalls flex during heavy cornering.

Auto-x & tire pressure gurus can more than likely elaborate on this for you if you have any additional questions!

 

im wanting to get these springs to ... look nice but my question is wat should my alignment be if its daily drivin no auto X no wut so over ...should it be same as factory settings ??...the car will never see a course ...mainly daily and canyon riding ..oh yea its a IX GSR if that helps any

 

If you have the stock strut bolts up front, it should be well within normal driving specs. Some cars are different, but both sides may not be the same camber. My case, the left was about ~0.4 deg different for the fronts. The rears will be fine. Just make sure the TOE is zero in the front and slight toe-in in the rear.

 

I think you mean as close to zero toe as possible ? .30 toe in at rear will definitely make the car understeer and lose that sharp feeling not to mention wear the tires big time...that is almost 1/3 inch toe !!!!. You need zero toe up front and at the rear. If you are a regular autox geek then go with 1/16 toe out up front and in the rear. Camber should be -1.5- -2.0 up front and -1.2- -1.3 in the rear. It will not wear the tires and will handle razor sharp. i f you have an adjustable rear sway bar set it at the softest setting, test and learn the cars handling , then try the middle setting...same thing...finally test it at full stiff.

milburn

 

i just installed mine today, and the back seems like it's same as stock spring, do i wait for it to settle and it will lower a lil more??

 

Tanabe's are not recommended for Bilsteins. On this forum anyway. They dont make a bilstein specific spring, and have the chance of wearing your shocks out prematurely due to incorrect spring rates. Just FYI.

 

my tech called tanabe and asked them about the gf210 for MR, and he told me that they said tanabe won't be a problem on a MR.

 

Do some searching in this forum. The only ones that are recommended are the MR specific springs. Of course Tanabe said they would be fine lol. Robi will only use swifts or espelir GT's on MR's for a reason, and theres alot of talk about springs prematurely blowing out the bilstein struts because of too aggressive a drop/not enough spring rate. The bilsteins are totally different then the KYB's on the regular evos, and therefore require a different spring.

 

well to answer the question at hand.

im running -2.1 up front and -1 in the rear with 0 toe all around stock bolts. aligned by robi himself. i have a gsr. daily driver and autox roughly 3 - 4 events a month.

the tanabes and swift have similar spring rates which are much stiffer than most springs offered.

 

should bring it to alignment since GF210 drop quite a bit in the front.

 

my tech knows the guy at tanabe, and before he order it for me, he said that he asked and the guy from tanabe say if it blow's the shock they will replace it.