alignment Spec after drop with Tanabe GF210?
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alignment Spec after drop with Tanabe GF210?
Going to drop my car with Tanabe GF210 Springs soon, I was wondering what the ideal spec for alignment? I know the front will drop about 1.5" and the rear about .6" doesn't make sense to use stock spec is my daily car and don't want too aggressive on the tires so what would be the spec for the alignment? Advice would be appreciate
#3
I also got these springs and I am going to be putting them on sometime this friday, but as for the alighnment specs... from what ive read, the most you can usually get would be about 1.8deg front camber at most and not sure about the rear. I would say to just make sure the toe is zero, or as close to the factory specs as possible. The tanabes arent that huge of a drop to not be able to get it back to spec.
Anyone feel free to chime in. I'm still gathering info about these machines as I go
Anyone feel free to chime in. I'm still gathering info about these machines as I go
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my car is set at the following specs
-1.4 up front
-1.0 at the rear
-.03 degree toe up front
-.09 degree toe in the rear
my request was -2 front -1.5 rear zero toe. the guy who did the aligment said that these settings were as far as the front would go and the toe was the best that he could get .
the specs are right of the sheet that they gave me and the car is lowered on tanabe gf210
hope this was helpful
-1.4 up front
-1.0 at the rear
-.03 degree toe up front
-.09 degree toe in the rear
my request was -2 front -1.5 rear zero toe. the guy who did the aligment said that these settings were as far as the front would go and the toe was the best that he could get .
the specs are right of the sheet that they gave me and the car is lowered on tanabe gf210
hope this was helpful
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It's always recommended to get a four wheel alignment after lowering your car using springs, adjustable coilovers, etc.
Alignment specifications will change whenever the car is lowered.
The GF210's do not drastically lower the EVO, nor will they put the alignment out of correctable ranges, but it is always recommended to get the car aligned for proper tire wear and handling characteristics.
While most will not be able to tell the difference in turn-in from toe settings off by fractions of a degree, your tires will definitely thank you. Proper toe settings (and to some effect, camber) will go a long way in making a tire that lasts 15K to a tire that lasts 20K.
Alignment specifications will change whenever the car is lowered.
The GF210's do not drastically lower the EVO, nor will they put the alignment out of correctable ranges, but it is always recommended to get the car aligned for proper tire wear and handling characteristics.
While most will not be able to tell the difference in turn-in from toe settings off by fractions of a degree, your tires will definitely thank you. Proper toe settings (and to some effect, camber) will go a long way in making a tire that lasts 15K to a tire that lasts 20K.
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Originally Posted by Tanabe USA
It's always recommended to get a four wheel alignment after lowering your car using springs, adjustable coilovers, etc.
Alignment specifications will change whenever the car is lowered.
The GF210's do not drastically lower the EVO, nor will they put the alignment out of correctable ranges, but it is always recommended to get the car aligned for proper tire wear and handling characteristics.
While most will not be able to tell the difference in turn-in from toe settings off by fractions of a degree, your tires will definitely thank you. Proper toe settings (and to some effect, camber) will go a long way in making a tire that lasts 15K to a tire that lasts 20K.
Alignment specifications will change whenever the car is lowered.
The GF210's do not drastically lower the EVO, nor will they put the alignment out of correctable ranges, but it is always recommended to get the car aligned for proper tire wear and handling characteristics.
While most will not be able to tell the difference in turn-in from toe settings off by fractions of a degree, your tires will definitely thank you. Proper toe settings (and to some effect, camber) will go a long way in making a tire that lasts 15K to a tire that lasts 20K.
#10
Originally Posted by s2KMR
Thanks for the info, I have IX MR and what spec alignment would you recommand with the drop for daily driving enviorment? can you post some #.
You should just get it as close to stock as possible. When they hook it up to the machine, they should have the factory specs in the system, so just get it as close to those as possible.
I would only really worry about settings if you are going to race the car (autox, roadrace). Other than that, just tell them to line it up.
#13
Tanabe
I put these springs on and love them. set your specs to one degree neg camber all around and zero toe all around. Works great on the track. Almost no understeer. I also have a rear bar on (Hotchkiss on the lightest setting).
#14
Well, i got mine on this past weekend and my specs were
FL- 1.2 FR- 1.8
Rears ~ -1
Toe is as close to 1 as possible, with about .30 or so in the rear.
Idk why the hell they couldnt get the FL to 1.5 like i told them. Probably just lazy. Good thing i got the 3 year alighnment
Id say the ride is actually a little nicer with the Tanabe springs. Havent had a change to really test them yet, but i do notice the imfamous "sharpness" reduced on turning. I dont really know why. Only thing i can think of is that the shock is already into its hard damping zone. Also, the stock springs looked like they are linear, where the Tanabes looked a bit progessive.
FL- 1.2 FR- 1.8
Rears ~ -1
Toe is as close to 1 as possible, with about .30 or so in the rear.
Idk why the hell they couldnt get the FL to 1.5 like i told them. Probably just lazy. Good thing i got the 3 year alighnment
Id say the ride is actually a little nicer with the Tanabe springs. Havent had a change to really test them yet, but i do notice the imfamous "sharpness" reduced on turning. I dont really know why. Only thing i can think of is that the shock is already into its hard damping zone. Also, the stock springs looked like they are linear, where the Tanabes looked a bit progessive.
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Originally Posted by mitsugsx
Well, i got mine on this past weekend and my specs were
FL- 1.2 FR- 1.8
Rears ~ -1
Toe is as close to 1 as possible, with about .30 or so in the rear.
Idk why the hell they couldnt get the FL to 1.5 like i told them. Probably just lazy. Good thing i got the 3 year alighnment
Id say the ride is actually a little nicer with the Tanabe springs. Havent had a change to really test them yet, but i do notice the imfamous "sharpness" reduced on turning. I dont really know why. Only thing i can think of is that the shock is already into its hard damping zone. Also, the stock springs looked like they are linear, where the Tanabes looked a bit progessive.
FL- 1.2 FR- 1.8
Rears ~ -1
Toe is as close to 1 as possible, with about .30 or so in the rear.
Idk why the hell they couldnt get the FL to 1.5 like i told them. Probably just lazy. Good thing i got the 3 year alighnment
Id say the ride is actually a little nicer with the Tanabe springs. Havent had a change to really test them yet, but i do notice the imfamous "sharpness" reduced on turning. I dont really know why. Only thing i can think of is that the shock is already into its hard damping zone. Also, the stock springs looked like they are linear, where the Tanabes looked a bit progessive.