dsldsl25

iTrader: (1)

I know that going the professional route is the best way to go, but I really want to play with it a little first to see what I can do myself. What do I need to do to adjust Camber? I am hoping to get as much negative camber as possable for autocross.

I do know of a few methods to measure Camber and Toe so I should be able to get a decent gauge of where I am after playing with it.

Thanks for your help! and again this is for education, I will probably have it realigned after I play with it a bit depending on how it drives.

bbenavitz

iTrader: (1)

You adjust the front camber with an ecentric bolt that is the upper most of the two bolts holding your strut upright (spring/shock assembly) to the wheel/hub assembly. It comes from the factory with the most conservative setting which is about .5 degree negative camber. After loosening the nut, you rotate the bolt head 180 degrees which will give you about 1.5 degrees negative camber. There is a white and yellow mark that is either of these two settings. This camber bolt is all or nothing with no other setting between the two. The rear of the evo 8 comes with about 1.5 deg negative camber which is all you want. Don't mess with it. They put this much neg camber in the rear from the factory to help induce understeer. Something else you can and need to change is the toe setting. Go zero toe front and rear at the minimum. This is a good setting for the street and a good compromise for the track.

Btw, I run one degree negative camber in the front and rear with zero toe in the front and the rear. Also have Tanabe springs and Hotchkiss rear bar. For me, this is a sweet set up compromise for the street and track (road course). I had to have the front camber bolts machined to get to one deg neg front camber. More than this on a street driven car will cause inside tire wear.

dsldsl25

iTrader: (1)

What is your favorite method to measure Camber/Caster/Toe? After I adjust the Camber to its max, what will I need to do to adjust the toe back to where it should be?

MrFairlady

iTrader: (19)

well getting my Lexus ASE Alignment wizard Align mine...we can't align the front.Rear is fine.

Looks like its aligned (camber,Toe or caster) but I think the toe (maybe caster) is whats killin my alignment (can't 100% remember).Was told I need to get front Camber plates in order to dial in the right amount to keep my tires from Wearing.Not a bad

so everyone is still able to be aligned right w/ something like camber plates.
what I was running when align the 1st time:
17x8 FQ wheels w/ OEM advans lowered on Hotchkis springs

Now I'm on 18x8.5 CE28's w/ the same springs and def need a good alignment in order to save some Tires.

Sorry to Hijack...but need this answered as well.

marek

bbenavitz:

You mention that 1.5 is optimal in the front, but you run 1.0. Is that a result of your lowering springs, and the eccentric set on the 'lowest' setting?

Marek