bolsen

iTrader: (2)

Easy question here. Is it a best practice to open the bleeder screw and manually press the pads into the caliper before starting the bleeding process?

ShrikeGTZ

iTrader: (3)

I dont see too much of a point for this, it wont remove air from the entire brake system, but most likely just from the caliper itself. I think this could push air further into the system...I've never done it and I've done alot of brakes. But I'd like to hear someone else chime in.

justchil

iTrader: (44)

Ditto on that. I've never done this. <chimes in as well>

bolsen

iTrader: (2)

Well if there is air in the lines, it will push it back up the line or if in the caliper it ould push it out the bleeder valve. Pressing the pad all the way in would verify that you're starting with a fully depressed pad.

Mind you, I've never done this in the past, and perhaps I'm thinking about this way too much, but it makes sense in my head :crazy: The problem I'm having is that the pad is pressed against the rotor and isn't pulling back out.

bolsen

iTrader: (2)

Ok, Ive done more research. I don't need to press the pad or anything. I'll give it another try tonight and see how it goes.

silverghost

iTrader: (15)

I like the pressure bleeding system because it is a one man operation. This system consists of a canister with your brake fluid that you can pump up to say 10 PSI. The outlet of the canister goes to a cap that you place onto your master cylinder. This cap makes a seal. The net effect is to lightly pressurize your brake system. Then you can open each of the eight bleeders and use the pressurized canister to push the brake fluid out of each bleeder into your catch bottle. The canister is designed to vent brake fluid and not air into your master cylinder. So, all concerns of getting air into the system are alleviated. ATE makes brake fluids that are yellow and blue. So, if you alternate between these two colors you can tell when you have completely flushed the line from master cylinder to caliper. I got mine from Livermore. If you do a search there is a specific master cylinder adaptor cap that you will need for the Evo. The universal cap didn't work for me.

justchil

iTrader: (44)

BTW: The Ford 3 prong cap fits the EVO. It took me a minute to get the cap on but it sealed perfect. (Talking about the motive powerbleeder)

trinydex

iTrader: (12)

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=144152

EVIL_EV0

iTrader: (6)

Open the resovoir cap then press in the pistons.....you may move enough fluid that it will flow out the top of the res but it wont allow air to get into the lines and the pistons will compress enough to get new pads in. I just did this last night. Went from nearly shot Porterfields to new Carobtechs.

justchil

iTrader: (44)

^^ That's exactly what I do.

trinydex

iTrader: (12)

now that i think about it... if you have a power bleeder you can hook it up unpressurized (tank open) and you won't spill fluid everywhere when you push the pads back. then afterwards you can just put new fluid in and tada... pump the fluid back into the res.