Brake Pad Question
#1
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From: Hoffman Estates and DeKalb, Illinois
Brake Pad Question
My front pads are making a low grinding sound and I'm going to have to replace them with some new pads. Last time I went to a Mitsubishi dealer and they ripped me off and charged me $700 to get my rear ones done. I was wondering what pads people suggest for daily driving? I plan on installing them myself this time. Also, how do you know if the rotors are hurt when i take off the caliper? Thanks and please everyone give their two cents on what pads I should get. I'm thinking of Performance Friction Z ($115), Hawk HPS($120), or Duralast Gold (cheap stock like stuff).
Last edited by ohthree; May 29, 2006 at 02:44 PM.
#2
This is my opinion and I know others vehemently disagree, but if you never drive hard enough to heat up your pads, I would just get the cheapest ones like duralast. However, if you do any spirited driving at all I would suggest Ferodo DS2500s as these have been the best dual street-track pads I've tried so far. If your rotors are smooth, don't have gouges in them, and don't have a thick rim around the outside, you can get away with not turning the rotors as well. I doubt your rotors are down past minimum thickness on your first front brake change. Just make sure to use plenty of Permatex COPPER Anti-Seize compound (hard to find, Napa normally has it...don't use the silver stuff it gums up and doesn't work well) on the backing plate and the shims. Also, carefully peel off the stock shims from the back of your old pads (not the metal ones, the flexible ones) and either save them for a rainy day if your pads come with anti-squeel shims attached to them, or re-use them in case you get some pads like Ferodo DS2500 that do not have shims attached.
I know some people are like "ble ble don't get $hitty pads on a high-performance car you poser" but if you don't normally drive it hard, save some money and buy some track-day pads for if/when you do.
Also, I know some people are also like "ble ble always turn rotors or your brakes won't work right" well I'm here to tell you I've changed the pads multiple times and have never turned them, I use the same rotors for the track and for the street, and it works just fine. You wear out the pads a little quicker as they adjust to the disk surface, and you have to press the pedal a little harder until the surfaces match again. Not a big deal to me, YMMV.
The only minor problem I've run into is sometimes I'll get some vibration while the new material coats over and/or scrapes away the last pad material from the rotor, but it goes away if you get on them a bit (at least for me). If you get this problem and it doesn't go away, I would suggest either going over them with a fine-grit sanding wheel and scuffing up the surface, or remove them and take them to a place that turns rotors, normally for like $15/ea.
Good Luck.
I know some people are like "ble ble don't get $hitty pads on a high-performance car you poser" but if you don't normally drive it hard, save some money and buy some track-day pads for if/when you do.
Also, I know some people are also like "ble ble always turn rotors or your brakes won't work right" well I'm here to tell you I've changed the pads multiple times and have never turned them, I use the same rotors for the track and for the street, and it works just fine. You wear out the pads a little quicker as they adjust to the disk surface, and you have to press the pedal a little harder until the surfaces match again. Not a big deal to me, YMMV.
The only minor problem I've run into is sometimes I'll get some vibration while the new material coats over and/or scrapes away the last pad material from the rotor, but it goes away if you get on them a bit (at least for me). If you get this problem and it doesn't go away, I would suggest either going over them with a fine-grit sanding wheel and scuffing up the surface, or remove them and take them to a place that turns rotors, normally for like $15/ea.
Good Luck.
Last edited by machron1; May 29, 2006 at 03:01 PM.
#3
You can also look into Project Mu NS which are around 80 bucks or Hawk HP which are around 90. If you hear a grinding sound then you need to get your rotors resurfaced. Take a look at the edges and the disc to see if it's been metal to metal contact
#5
Originally Posted by smokedmustang
I have 40K miles on my Hawk, their resume includes: Drag-racing/road course racing/ daily driving, they have been driven HARD,and I have no problem with them!!!
#6
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 261
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From: Hoffman Estates and DeKalb, Illinois
Yeah on second thought I might not install them and have AMS do it for me. We'll see what they suggest for a price. If high I'll just do it myself because I hate all these rip off places around me!
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#8
Originally Posted by machron1
Hawk _______ (fill in the blank) might help
#9
Originally Posted by machron1
This is my opinion and I know others vehemently disagree, but if you never drive hard enough to heat up your pads, I would just get the cheapest ones like duralast. However, if you do any spirited driving at all I would suggest Ferodo DS2500s as these have been the best dual street-track pads I've tried so far. If your rotors are smooth, don't have gouges in them, and don't have a thick rim around the outside, you can get away with not turning the rotors as well. I doubt your rotors are down past minimum thickness on your first front brake change. Just make sure to use plenty of Permatex COPPER Anti-Seize compound (hard to find, Napa normally has it...don't use the silver stuff it gums up and doesn't work well) on the backing plate and the shims. Also, carefully peel off the stock shims from the back of your old pads (not the metal ones, the flexible ones) and either save them for a rainy day if your pads come with anti-squeel shims attached to them, or re-use them in case you get some pads like Ferodo DS2500 that do not have shims attached.
I know some people are like "ble ble don't get $hitty pads on a high-performance car you poser" but if you don't normally drive it hard, save some money and buy some track-day pads for if/when you do.
Also, I know some people are also like "ble ble always turn rotors or your brakes won't work right" well I'm here to tell you I've changed the pads multiple times and have never turned them, I use the same rotors for the track and for the street, and it works just fine. You wear out the pads a little quicker as they adjust to the disk surface, and you have to press the pedal a little harder until the surfaces match again. Not a big deal to me, YMMV.
The only minor problem I've run into is sometimes I'll get some vibration while the new material coats over and/or scrapes away the last pad material from the rotor, but it goes away if you get on them a bit (at least for me). If you get this problem and it doesn't go away, I would suggest either going over them with a fine-grit sanding wheel and scuffing up the surface, or remove them and take them to a place that turns rotors, normally for like $15/ea.
Good Luck.
I know some people are like "ble ble don't get $hitty pads on a high-performance car you poser" but if you don't normally drive it hard, save some money and buy some track-day pads for if/when you do.
Also, I know some people are also like "ble ble always turn rotors or your brakes won't work right" well I'm here to tell you I've changed the pads multiple times and have never turned them, I use the same rotors for the track and for the street, and it works just fine. You wear out the pads a little quicker as they adjust to the disk surface, and you have to press the pedal a little harder until the surfaces match again. Not a big deal to me, YMMV.
The only minor problem I've run into is sometimes I'll get some vibration while the new material coats over and/or scrapes away the last pad material from the rotor, but it goes away if you get on them a bit (at least for me). If you get this problem and it doesn't go away, I would suggest either going over them with a fine-grit sanding wheel and scuffing up the surface, or remove them and take them to a place that turns rotors, normally for like $15/ea.
Good Luck.
Don't waste money on pads you're not going to make use of. Not turning rotors is just fine, autozone pads are fine for the street.
Only go with pads as good as you need, anything else is just a waste of cash.
#10
totally agreed with machron1. Get pads that are for your application.
Your rotor surface should be smooth. As a rough guide, it should be smooth to touch. Slight circular (as in going around the rotor like a record) grooves that aren't too deep should be okay but aren't that great. They should go away somewhat in time, but not totally and would probably wear your pads a bit more quickly.
If the DS2500 are a little expensive, Pagid 4-2-1 Blue are also quite good and also a little cheaper IIRC.
Your rotor surface should be smooth. As a rough guide, it should be smooth to touch. Slight circular (as in going around the rotor like a record) grooves that aren't too deep should be okay but aren't that great. They should go away somewhat in time, but not totally and would probably wear your pads a bit more quickly.
If the DS2500 are a little expensive, Pagid 4-2-1 Blue are also quite good and also a little cheaper IIRC.
#11
Originally Posted by x838nwy
If the DS2500 are a little expensive, Pagid 4-2-1 Blue are also quite good and also a little cheaper IIRC.
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