chmodlf

iTrader: (19)

I spoke with Tein last week, they said that the new units come with 12K front and 10K rear. Prior units had 10K front and 10K rear. Earlier units may have had the 9K front 8K rear like the sticky spring rate chart thread has. The mods should update that sticky thread as the guy who started it has not been posting for a LONG time.

kekek

iTrader: (22)

Matt,
If your wife likes cars you should be able to get away with 10/12. Mine was ok with that and the rates were decent with the RA-1's. Now that I am up to the 285's even 12/14 is a bit too soft for higher grip lots. For Etown it's pretty good, although a tad stiff. I am pretty sure Kevin's wife and my own don't really like our cars anymore. hahahahaha

I can pretty much guarantee understeer if you run softer in the rear. A swaybar won't really help either as they don't do much for steady state cornering and thats where the springs really help.

John

Matt2.8NJ

iTrader: (7)

Hmm. I got the spring rates of the Flex off of Z1auto's website.

Matt2.8NJ

iTrader: (7)

John, if I recall correctly, the day Kevin introduced us @ the Meadowlands you had mentioned that your wife and child dont really mind the ride in the Evo too much - even with the big spring rates you run - but that's why you bought another car to haul the family around in

It's my understanding that one can run big spring rates, provided the damping is properly matched - but it's my concern that the Flex - a budget priced coilover - will grate on my kidneys and behind after too long. In contrast, the stock MR suspension wallows like a stuck pig with sticky tires, but the street ride is incredible.

But hell, the price of a set of Teins is certainly good... and some very fast drivers use them.

I take it you're heading for Devens next weekend. Good luck!

You might find this funny- I forgot to thank you for not showing up either
http://forums.evo-ny.com/viewtopic.p...902&highlight=

kekek

iTrader: (22)

Yeah, we'll all (myself, Kevin, Dan, Jan and Aaron) be at Devens, pretty psyched. There is potential for NYR to take quite a few class wins.

I don't go on Evo-ny....they don't really like me and the feeling is mutual. You could give me some cliff notes though....

John

Matt2.8NJ

iTrader: (7)

Cliff notes... I posted a thread jokingly thanking Kevin and Jan for not showing up to the M-Club this weekend.

Because they weren't there, I took my first FTD


Too bad the Bridgewater lot was TERRIBLE!

Jeff_Jeske

iTrader: (66)

After all these postings ..... and various listed spring rates....

What rates front and rear are recommended for a 75% street duty EVO?

chmodlf

iTrader: (19)

I think a good number is 450F/550R from what I have read. This is basically the same question I have.

Check out this thread I started in the "advanced" section it concerns your question and what I feel is very important the ratio of F/R rates:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=204297

kekek

iTrader: (22)

For an autocross/street car I would go with 10kg/mm (560 lb/in) front and 12kg/mm (670 lb/in) rear. This would be on a moderately grippy lot with middle range tires (ra-1's, victoracer or Azenis). The balance is good here and it's quite tolerable on the street. Start getting more grip (275/285 width V710's) and you'll be getting lots of body roll. Matt can attest, the advice is good. This is my setup last year and the car was fast locally with only coilovers and ra-1's.

Whatever you decide to do make sure to keep that 100 lb/in differential, it's important for good balance. Without it the car will push. After trying 4 different spring combo's in the last year the only 2 which worked well were like this.

EVO Nathan

iTrader: (3)

Kekek, lets apply this towards my scenario, if you wouldnt mind. I currently running hte defauly 12k up front and 10k in the rear. The ride is a bit too bouncy around the streets with this setup (bouncy as in stiff, not cadillac bouncy). So, with what you are saying you would recommend that I swap my springs around for a better handling car. But, will it smooth or soften up the ride that much?

Well, I rarely track the car, but I will hit up a few open track days this summer. Or do you think that I will be better off dropping the rates down to 10k front and 8k rears for my daily use?

Let me know what you think.
Thanks,
Nathan

Matt2.8NJ

iTrader: (7)

John's car is f**kin fast



Honestly, if you're not tracking regularly...DO NOT mod the car for the track. Sensibly - it's a street car. Do the track days and have fun, and most importantly LEARN from them!!! HDPE's are driver's schools, NOT races - which many on this board seem to forget - even calling HDPE's "road racing". Those days are for driving a street car on the track in a controlled environment. The Evo's suspension is more than up to the task of an occasional street day- you'll find it easy to pass a lot "faster" cars.

/end old guy rant

jid2

iTrader: (62)

If it's a 75% street car I would go with Bilstein PSS9's and call it a day.

I'll be running 8K/9K KW's here in a few weeks I'll chime in on how it does on the street - ride quality wise. I'm willing to get beat though - The car rides harsh stock and I'm ok with that. Next year I may up the spring rate if this isn't too bad.

EVO Nathan

iTrader: (3)

Like I said in my first couple of posts, then car came with the Flexs on them. I did not put them on. The point of the thread was not to determine, or get opinions on whether I plan on tracking the car from time to time or not.

The questions is what effects/benefits/setback/etc....will come about if I drop the spring rates down the from the current 12k/10k level to a 10k/8k level? What would the effects be both on the street and on the track?

I am not too terribly worried about having a track car. I am just trying to make it a bit more drivable eveyday, but I dont want to totally kill the handling of it either.

/end bad day rant

Nathan

chmodlf

iTrader: (19)

Nathan from what you are saying, it sounds like you should drop your spring rates as it seems that you don't like the ride on the street. Tein also told me that you have +-2K to play with before revalving is required. It will change the effects of the damping a bit as you reach those limits.

Keke and some of the other guys posting are more toward the hard core racer side of the equasion. This type of driver excuses the harder ride with the grip they get when they are racing.

Why not get some new springs and see where you are? Even though it is a PITA to swap springs--be careful if you do it yourself as I had a friend that launched a spring past his head into the neighbor's yard--keep your old springs for a little while to see if you want more performance in the race end of the spectrum later on. If you like your new setup sell the old ones here and recoup some of your $$s.

kekek

iTrader: (22)

Ok, this helps a bit. If you want a softer ride and are happy with the balance of the car now I would run the 10/8. If the car is too pushy for you then I would try the 10/10. I don't see the car bottoming or having any ill effects especially since you won't be on a very grippy tire (my assumption). If your not a very experienced driver I would shy way from high rear rates anyway as I could only see them getting you into more trouble. Just make sure you get a good alignment after swapping them and don't drop the car too low.

My advice applies more to an autox car, but I have friends running similar rates at the track with no ill effects.

HTH,
John