Machining the stock Brembo rotors
May 31, 2006, 05:03 PM
#17
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I've had the stock Brembo rotors resurfaced once.
They warped on me in about 5,000 miles and after 1 track day. I resurfaced and then they warped again after another track day.
This time I am going to replace the rotors. Although I can probably get away with another resurface, I want the full heat dissipation from a full rotor.
They warped on me in about 5,000 miles and after 1 track day. I resurfaced and then they warped again after another track day.
This time I am going to replace the rotors. Although I can probably get away with another resurface, I want the full heat dissipation from a full rotor.
May 31, 2006, 06:08 PM
#18
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Originally Posted by Mmelmann
Eh, I don't agree. If the rotors are warped... they will continually push the pad out with every revolution, causing the pad to "skip" across it's surface. Believe me, I've been there on one of my past motorcycles (a Suzuki TL-1000R). The mechanics mistakenly squeezed my rotors together when they put my bike up on the lift.
That vice device bent both of my front rotors. When I was leaving the shop, those bent rotors pushed the pads outwards and away from the rotor and when I tried to come to a stop... I freakin couldn't and I almost got smacked by oncoming traffic. I could pump the brakes back in, get some bite, and then get rolling... only to get the same results. After arguing with the bike shop for a bit... they fessed up and bought me a brand new set of $500 rotors.
I hate the thought of pulses coming through my brakes. It's a scary situation. Even if it's slight... it's still reducing brake performance.
Now if I had floating rotors... I would agree with you. I had them on my old M Coupe.
That vice device bent both of my front rotors. When I was leaving the shop, those bent rotors pushed the pads outwards and away from the rotor and when I tried to come to a stop... I freakin couldn't and I almost got smacked by oncoming traffic. I could pump the brakes back in, get some bite, and then get rolling... only to get the same results. After arguing with the bike shop for a bit... they fessed up and bought me a brand new set of $500 rotors.
I hate the thought of pulses coming through my brakes. It's a scary situation. Even if it's slight... it's still reducing brake performance.
Now if I had floating rotors... I would agree with you. I had them on my old M Coupe.
May 31, 2006, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Mmelmann
Hmmm. Well I guess that the wheels could have been torqued improperly. The only wheel that I've personally taken off was the right rear when I did my exhaust install. The car has been to the dealership already to have some work done to it. They had to fix my oil leak on my IX so they may have taken the wheel off and not put it back properly... I wouldn't put it past them.
What's the correct tq spec for the lug nut's? It's 55 ft-lbs for my suby. I'll go out and reinstall the front's here in a bit.
What's the correct tq spec for the lug nut's? It's 55 ft-lbs for my suby. I'll go out and reinstall the front's here in a bit.
May 31, 2006, 08:33 PM
#21
Originally Posted by Mmelmann
I'm interested in this. Could you tell me more about getting brake pad deposit's on my rotors? Thanks.
but...Brake pads are supposed to leave a thin layer of themselves on the rotors. After either not being bedded in properly, or being used mostly cold and in a stop-and-go fashion, the pad can deposit uneven amounts of itself in different areas of the rotor, causing some parts of it to be thicker than others. This feels like a vibration when you apply the brakes. This happened to me once when I went from street pads to Hawk Blue racing pads when I was first bedding in the Hawk Blues. It went away after a few hot laps.
So, in your case, I would go romp on the brakes from freeway speeds, giving a few minutes of normal driving to cool them down between each braking event. If it is indeed pad transfer, this should eventually fix the problem as the pads re-bed themselves to your rotors. The heat and extra friction should strip away the big chunks of pad material built up on your rotors. The main cause of this seems to be using performance brakes for nearly exclusively non-performance driving, where the compound doesn't reach its optimum braking temperature. I would suggest buying a more street-oriented pad for this kind of driving, and keep a spare set of performance pads around for more aggressive driving like canyon carving, auto-x, track days, etc.
But yeah before you do this make sure your wheels are torqued. You can get torque wrenches fairly cheap these days, and although I wouldn't trust a cheap torque wrench with my head bolts, for wheels they should be at least within 7 ft/lbs, and the torque will be distributed equally because you'll be using the same force each time.
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