DBA 4000 Series vs. Powerslot Cryogenic
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DBA 4000 Series vs. Powerslot Cryogenic
I'm debating between DBA (Disc Brakes Australlia) 4000 Series and Powerslot Cryogenic Frozen brake rotors to replace my constantly warping stock rotors.
I've had my stock rotors replaced under warranty and they soon warped again within a couple months. I am not by any means hard on my brakes and I've read countless threads on pad transfer so please no more lectures on that issue.
Does any one have personal experience with or know of anyone who does with the above two replacement rotors?
DBA seems to have the better design-better cooling within the rotor, they are a bit more expensive. http://www.500whp.com/catalog/produc...5cb3abc8da809e
Powerslot does have the cryogenic freezing on their side-a more dense molecular structure to withstand the heat brake rotors withstand. http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...-Treated+Rotor
I appreciate anyone's opinion...thanks!
I've had my stock rotors replaced under warranty and they soon warped again within a couple months. I am not by any means hard on my brakes and I've read countless threads on pad transfer so please no more lectures on that issue.
Does any one have personal experience with or know of anyone who does with the above two replacement rotors?
DBA seems to have the better design-better cooling within the rotor, they are a bit more expensive. http://www.500whp.com/catalog/produc...5cb3abc8da809e
Powerslot does have the cryogenic freezing on their side-a more dense molecular structure to withstand the heat brake rotors withstand. http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...-Treated+Rotor
I appreciate anyone's opinion...thanks!
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Can't say much about the DBA since we don't carry them, but I've never had anyone complain or return the Powerslot's. The standard rotors from them are quite durable, but the cryo treated ones are really really strong. Works the same way as heat cycling a tire but instead its a cold process rather than a warm one. I sell a lot of them for heavy duty vehicles that tow or cars that see a lot of track time and everyone loves them.
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Thanks for the testimony Neal!
I've heard good things about both brands from people without direct experience...I guess that's what I'm looking for.
Also, a bit off topic, have you had a chance to try out the Yokohama Advan S4 all-seasons yet? I read the comparison tests at your site...is it's wet performance really that bad?
I've heard good things about both brands from people without direct experience...I guess that's what I'm looking for.
Also, a bit off topic, have you had a chance to try out the Yokohama Advan S4 all-seasons yet? I read the comparison tests at your site...is it's wet performance really that bad?
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About the cryogenic treatment, that's interesting. I've never seen it done to brake rotors before. As far as I know (and we heat treat and sometimes cryo parts) it really depends on the steel - some respond to it and some just don't. What you end up with is a more consistent microstructure (if the material responds to it) and generally it improves wear. I would not have thought the cast iron rotor would respond to it, but I don't really know its composition (nor do i work with iron much) so I'll have to go read up on this.
What I wanted to say is that it doesn't make it any denser in terms of packing more mass into the same volume.
I really think you should look at pad deposit again in any case. I mean it's physically quite hard to warp the rotors with the calipers. What pads do you run anyway? My project mu 2-piece and mu 900 pads 'warped' like crazy for about 200-300 miles. Now it's totally gone...
oh crap, all that and I forgot to mention the DBA rotors. I've heard good things about them. However this by no means indicates that they're better than any other brands. Basically a couple of guys I know haven't had any problem with them (both standard versions, not the 4000 series) on their cars. Not really much to go on, but then again, one didn't really have any problem with the stock rotor and another guy bought the car second hand with them on in the fronts already.
What I wanted to say is that it doesn't make it any denser in terms of packing more mass into the same volume.
I really think you should look at pad deposit again in any case. I mean it's physically quite hard to warp the rotors with the calipers. What pads do you run anyway? My project mu 2-piece and mu 900 pads 'warped' like crazy for about 200-300 miles. Now it's totally gone...
oh crap, all that and I forgot to mention the DBA rotors. I've heard good things about them. However this by no means indicates that they're better than any other brands. Basically a couple of guys I know haven't had any problem with them (both standard versions, not the 4000 series) on their cars. Not really much to go on, but then again, one didn't really have any problem with the stock rotor and another guy bought the car second hand with them on in the fronts already.
Last edited by x838nwy; Aug 20, 2006 at 09:41 AM.
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Originally Posted by lithe
Also, a bit off topic, have you had a chance to try out the Yokohama Advan S4 all-seasons yet? I read the comparison tests at your site...is it's wet performance really that bad?
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Originally Posted by lithe
DBA seems to have the better design-better cooling within the rotor, they are a bit more expensive. http://www.500whp.com/catalog/produc...5cb3abc8da809e
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I have run more rotors then any one man should. I have driven on stock cryotreated rotors. DBA 4000 DBA 5000 stoptech.
Out of all those rotors I perfer the DBA5000 series rotors. They are very light to help reduce unsprung weight. They have paint markings on them that will tell you how hot you are getting them (great for track nuts).
The 4000 series come with the markings as well. They are just a little cheaper since they are a one piece design. They still hold up to track and daily driving and have never seen one actually warp.
Now for the shameless plug
http://www.rallysportdirect.com/shop...512c47ec2aa822
Let me know if you have anymore questions.
Out of all those rotors I perfer the DBA5000 series rotors. They are very light to help reduce unsprung weight. They have paint markings on them that will tell you how hot you are getting them (great for track nuts).
The 4000 series come with the markings as well. They are just a little cheaper since they are a one piece design. They still hold up to track and daily driving and have never seen one actually warp.
Now for the shameless plug
http://www.rallysportdirect.com/shop...512c47ec2aa822
Let me know if you have anymore questions.
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Thanks for everybody's replies! Like everyone here, I just want to make right decision and buy the best part for the money.
evo 8 ya, I'll be looking forward to your evaluation of the DBA 4000's.
Neal, does Tirerack do any snow/ice testing with their all-season high performance tires? I suppose I'd guess that it would reflect similarly to wet performance...but you guys are the experts.
evo 8 ya, I'll be looking forward to your evaluation of the DBA 4000's.
Neal, does Tirerack do any snow/ice testing with their all-season high performance tires? I suppose I'd guess that it would reflect similarly to wet performance...but you guys are the experts.
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evo 8 ya: Any update on the DBA 4000? Did you install them yet?
I'm considering these two rotors as well, and also the brembo slotted that are available on z1auto. Anybody have any input on those compared to the powerslot or dba 4000? Are those the "real deal"? I've heard there's a decent amount of fake slotted brembos around...
I'm considering these two rotors as well, and also the brembo slotted that are available on z1auto. Anybody have any input on those compared to the powerslot or dba 4000? Are those the "real deal"? I've heard there's a decent amount of fake slotted brembos around...
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DBA rotors are very sturdy. THey are heat treated and cast in a foundry right next to the DBA machining plant.
They are reasonably priced and worth it - for EVO's they only make the 4000 series in one piece.
And there is no way Z1 sells anything fake
They are reasonably priced and worth it - for EVO's they only make the 4000 series in one piece.
And there is no way Z1 sells anything fake
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+1 for DBA rotors being awsome!! That is what I run on my personal car and they are better then any other rotor I have used.
The truth about the brembo "fake" rotors is that there are very little of them. I am sure some people have claimed other rotors to be Brembo. But most of the brembo rotors that are really cheap out there are companies that bought the blank rotors and either slotted or drilled them independently without Brembo doing it.
If you want to make sure to get a factory machined Brembo rotor please buy through a authorized Brembo distributor like we are.
The truth about the brembo "fake" rotors is that there are very little of them. I am sure some people have claimed other rotors to be Brembo. But most of the brembo rotors that are really cheap out there are companies that bought the blank rotors and either slotted or drilled them independently without Brembo doing it.
If you want to make sure to get a factory machined Brembo rotor please buy through a authorized Brembo distributor like we are.
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There are a lot of Brembo blanks that get drilled/slotted etc and sold. But the real Brembo's come in a 'Brembo Sport' box.
For EVO's and STi's you can't get Brembo blanks except at the dealer so that situation is not occuring.
Sometimes they even get Brembo boxes made and use cheap chinese rotors - that's some real bad juju to me.
For EVO's and STi's you can't get Brembo blanks except at the dealer so that situation is not occuring.
Sometimes they even get Brembo boxes made and use cheap chinese rotors - that's some real bad juju to me.