downside to running Motul RBF600 on street?
Sep 21, 2006, 11:02 AM
#16
ate turns into a gummy mess when you boil it, i'll never touch the stuff again.
Motul turns color, but thats about it. (from what i've seen).
Most people with semi-slick tires, will boil ATE. However if you're running a street pad, instead of a track pad, of course you'll fade the pad before you boil the fluid. If you're running a track pad, then you'll boil the fluid.
I understand that water is absorbed into the system, but if you're saying it gets in the seals around the dust boots, then the fluid is going to leak, you've got positive pressure, the fluid, with gravity, would run out. I haven't had that problem, and i doubt anyone else here has either
It is reccommended to flush motul more often, and from what i've seen the valvoline stuff thats available at discount is a good buy, and a great way to flush before putting motul in ( and it's relatively cheap)
Motul turns color, but thats about it. (from what i've seen).
Most people with semi-slick tires, will boil ATE. However if you're running a street pad, instead of a track pad, of course you'll fade the pad before you boil the fluid. If you're running a track pad, then you'll boil the fluid.
I understand that water is absorbed into the system, but if you're saying it gets in the seals around the dust boots, then the fluid is going to leak, you've got positive pressure, the fluid, with gravity, would run out. I haven't had that problem, and i doubt anyone else here has either
It is reccommended to flush motul more often, and from what i've seen the valvoline stuff thats available at discount is a good buy, and a great way to flush before putting motul in ( and it's relatively cheap)
Sep 21, 2006, 11:15 AM
#17
Moisture WILL get into any brake system it is a known fact. That is the reason you need to flush and replace the fluid. It will come through any opening that moisture can find its way into this includes boots and seals. I know it seems hard to think it can get in there but it can.
Also if you really are serious about brake bleeding I would recommend buying one of these.
http://www.rallysportdirect.com/shop...er-p-2754.html
This way there is no chance for air to get in and makes it easy to bleed the brake by yourself.
Also if you really are serious about brake bleeding I would recommend buying one of these.
http://www.rallysportdirect.com/shop...er-p-2754.html
This way there is no chance for air to get in and makes it easy to bleed the brake by yourself.
Sep 21, 2006, 11:48 AM
#18
Originally Posted by RallySport Direct
Moisture WILL get into any brake system it is a known fact. That is the reason you need to flush and replace the fluid. It will come through any opening that moisture can find its way into this includes boots and seals. I know it seems hard to think it can get in there but it can.
Also if you really are serious about brake bleeding I would recommend buying one of these.
http://www.rallysportdirect.com/shop...er-p-2754.html
This way there is no chance for air to get in and makes it easy to bleed the brake by yourself.
Also if you really are serious about brake bleeding I would recommend buying one of these.
http://www.rallysportdirect.com/shop...er-p-2754.html
This way there is no chance for air to get in and makes it easy to bleed the brake by yourself.
and yes, the motive bleeder is a great device, however, i wouldn't pay more from a seperate distributor, than directly from the company
Sep 21, 2006, 12:02 PM
#19
Well from the people I have talked to in depth about brakes it gets in through there too.
Also we are selling it for the same price and if you order it with something to get you over 200 you get free freight so you may want to double check the pricing
http://www.rallysportdirect.com/shop...er-p-2754.html
The Import Power Bleeder on this page. This comes with the cap the screws on instead of the stupid clamp.
http://www.motiveproducts.com/02bleeders.html
Also we are selling it for the same price and if you order it with something to get you over 200 you get free freight so you may want to double check the pricing
http://www.rallysportdirect.com/shop...er-p-2754.html
The Import Power Bleeder on this page. This comes with the cap the screws on instead of the stupid clamp.
http://www.motiveproducts.com/02bleeders.html
Sep 21, 2006, 01:20 PM
#20
what we need is the 1107, 3 prong.
It has to be a typo on the site that says 0106-7, that has to supposed to be 1106-7.
if you just buy that one, it's $15 cheaper than the import one, and therefore, cheaper.
It has to be a typo on the site that says 0106-7, that has to supposed to be 1106-7.
if you just buy that one, it's $15 cheaper than the import one, and therefore, cheaper.
Last edited by WarmPepsi; Sep 21, 2006 at 01:43 PM. Reason: clear it up.
Sep 21, 2006, 02:02 PM
#22
Evolved Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 1,296
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
First off, hydroscopic is not even a word. Brake fluid is hygroscopic. Secondly, brake fluid does not absorb water to keep your brake system from rusting - water in the fluid will cause the system to rust.
DOT 3 DOT 4, and DOT 5.1 brake fluids are ether based and, as such they are hygroscopic in nature - i.e. they adsorb water at every opportunity. Since water boils at 212 degrees Fahrenheit (100 degrees Celsius) the absorbed water dramatically lowers the boiling point of the brake fluid. A minute amount of water suspended in the fluid decreases the boiling point as much as 1/3. The fluid in the system absorbs water through the breathers, through the caliper piston seals and by magic. Not only does this reduce the boiling point, the entrained water leads to corrosion of both ferrous and Aluminum internal parts.
Overheated brake fluid can (and will) boil in the caliper. Boiling produces gas bubbles within any boiling fluid. Gas is compressible so boiling brake fluid leads to a “soft” brake pedal with long travel. In extreme cases overheated brake fluid necessitates “pumping the brake pedal” in order to get a pedal at all.
Most of the above comes directly from StopTech's website, by the way. They are much more eloquent than I am. For street tires and pads, ATE is fine. For r-comps or slicks, and track pads, ATE does not hold up. I learned that the hard way this past spring. As with any race-oriented product, service levels should be increased to avoid trouble.
DOT 3 DOT 4, and DOT 5.1 brake fluids are ether based and, as such they are hygroscopic in nature - i.e. they adsorb water at every opportunity. Since water boils at 212 degrees Fahrenheit (100 degrees Celsius) the absorbed water dramatically lowers the boiling point of the brake fluid. A minute amount of water suspended in the fluid decreases the boiling point as much as 1/3. The fluid in the system absorbs water through the breathers, through the caliper piston seals and by magic. Not only does this reduce the boiling point, the entrained water leads to corrosion of both ferrous and Aluminum internal parts.
Overheated brake fluid can (and will) boil in the caliper. Boiling produces gas bubbles within any boiling fluid. Gas is compressible so boiling brake fluid leads to a “soft” brake pedal with long travel. In extreme cases overheated brake fluid necessitates “pumping the brake pedal” in order to get a pedal at all.
Most of the above comes directly from StopTech's website, by the way. They are much more eloquent than I am.
For street tires and pads, ATE is fine. For r-comps or slicks, and track pads, ATE does not hold up. I learned that the hard way this past spring. As with any race-oriented product, service levels should be increased to avoid trouble.
Sep 21, 2006, 02:03 PM
#23
Originally Posted by WarmPepsi
what we need is the 1107, 3 prong.
It has to be a typo on the site that says 0106-7, that has to supposed to be 1106-7.
if you just buy that one, it's $15 cheaper than the import one, and therefore, cheaper.
It has to be a typo on the site that says 0106-7, that has to supposed to be 1106-7.
if you just buy that one, it's $15 cheaper than the import one, and therefore, cheaper.
This has to be the most off topic set of posts EVER!!
If you were to call up motive and tell them you needed a Brake bleeder for your evolution they would sell you the Model 0251 for 69.95 it comes with the improt screw on cap and the universal clamp.
So we are selling the same product at the same price.
So back on topic.
Sep 21, 2006, 02:07 PM
#24
Originally Posted by RallySport Direct
This has to be the most off topic set of posts EVER!!
If you were to call up motive and tell them you needed a Brake bleeder for your evolution they would sell you the Model 0251 for 69.95 it comes with the improt screw on cap and the universal clamp.
So we are selling the same product at the same price.
So back on topic.
If you were to call up motive and tell them you needed a Brake bleeder for your evolution they would sell you the Model 0251 for 69.95 it comes with the improt screw on cap and the universal clamp.
So we are selling the same product at the same price.
So back on topic.
you might wanna check a thread here, and do a little product reseach on the stuff you're selling, as these were the guys that took the time to make sure the 1107 fit, rather than the universal.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=144152
edit: your original suggestion of the power bleeder is a great idea, everybody who tracks, or thinks of running race fluid should defiantly already have one, but jumping in to make a sale was your downfall.
Last edited by WarmPepsi; Sep 21, 2006 at 02:11 PM.
Sep 21, 2006, 02:09 PM
#25
Sorry for my bad pronunciation and spelling. It does have more functions then just preventing rust(corrosion) but my point was to tell people that it absorbs water for a reason not just for fun.
Originally Posted by 992gnt
First off, hydroscopic is not even a word. Brake fluid is hygroscopic. Secondly, brake fluid does not absorb water to keep your brake system from rusting - water in the fluid will cause the system to rust.
DOT 3 DOT 4, and DOT 5.1 brake fluids are ether based and, as such they are hygroscopic in nature - i.e. they adsorb water at every opportunity. Since water boils at 212 degrees Fahrenheit (100 degrees Celsius) the absorbed water dramatically lowers the boiling point of the brake fluid. A minute amount of water suspended in the fluid decreases the boiling point as much as 1/3. The fluid in the system absorbs water through the breathers, through the caliper piston seals and by magic. Not only does this reduce the boiling point, the entrained water leads to corrosion of both ferrous and Aluminum internal parts.
Overheated brake fluid can (and will) boil in the caliper. Boiling produces gas bubbles within any boiling fluid. Gas is compressible so boiling brake fluid leads to a “soft” brake pedal with long travel. In extreme cases overheated brake fluid necessitates “pumping the brake pedal” in order to get a pedal at all.
Most of the above comes directly from StopTech's website, by the way. They are much more eloquent than I am. For street tires and pads, ATE is fine. For r-comps or slicks, and track pads, ATE does not hold up. I learned that the hard way this past spring. As with any race-oriented product, service levels should be increased to avoid trouble.
DOT 3 DOT 4, and DOT 5.1 brake fluids are ether based and, as such they are hygroscopic in nature - i.e. they adsorb water at every opportunity. Since water boils at 212 degrees Fahrenheit (100 degrees Celsius) the absorbed water dramatically lowers the boiling point of the brake fluid. A minute amount of water suspended in the fluid decreases the boiling point as much as 1/3. The fluid in the system absorbs water through the breathers, through the caliper piston seals and by magic. Not only does this reduce the boiling point, the entrained water leads to corrosion of both ferrous and Aluminum internal parts.
Overheated brake fluid can (and will) boil in the caliper. Boiling produces gas bubbles within any boiling fluid. Gas is compressible so boiling brake fluid leads to a “soft” brake pedal with long travel. In extreme cases overheated brake fluid necessitates “pumping the brake pedal” in order to get a pedal at all.
Most of the above comes directly from StopTech's website, by the way. They are much more eloquent than I am.
For street tires and pads, ATE is fine. For r-comps or slicks, and track pads, ATE does not hold up. I learned that the hard way this past spring. As with any race-oriented product, service levels should be increased to avoid trouble.
Sep 21, 2006, 03:07 PM
#26
Originally Posted by WarmPepsi
ya know, thats funny, because thats exactly what i did, and exactly what i got works just fine
you might wanna check a thread here, and do a little product reseach on the stuff you're selling, as these were the guys that took the time to make sure the 1107 fit, rather than the universal.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=144152
edit: your original suggestion of the power bleeder is a great idea, everybody who tracks, or thinks of running race fluid should defiantly already have one, but jumping in to make a sale was your downfall.
you might wanna check a thread here, and do a little product reseach on the stuff you're selling, as these were the guys that took the time to make sure the 1107 fit, rather than the universal.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=144152
edit: your original suggestion of the power bleeder is a great idea, everybody who tracks, or thinks of running race fluid should defiantly already have one, but jumping in to make a sale was your downfall.
I really do not need to research the product as we use them here and know about them from use.
I could care less if someone bought a part off our website that we made 5 dollars on. We carry them for convenience so when a customer orders thier fluid they can order that from us rather then ordering from 5 different vendors and paying shipping charges at each one. That probably doesn't make me a very good salesman but I have never liked those guys much so I couldn't stand if I was like them. This will be my last post about the power bleeder as this is not what this thread was made for if you want to continue to discuss it you can make a thread about it and we can discuss it there.
Sep 21, 2006, 03:49 PM
#27
Originally Posted by RallySport Direct
I really do not need to research the product as we use them here and know about them from use.
I could care less if someone bought a part off our website that we made 5 dollars on. We carry them for convenience so when a customer orders thier fluid they can order that from us rather then ordering from 5 different vendors and paying shipping charges at each one. That probably doesn't make me a very good salesman but I have never liked those guys much so I couldn't stand if I was like them. This will be my last post about the power bleeder as this is not what this thread was made for if you want to continue to discuss it you can make a thread about it and we can discuss it there.
I could care less if someone bought a part off our website that we made 5 dollars on. We carry them for convenience so when a customer orders thier fluid they can order that from us rather then ordering from 5 different vendors and paying shipping charges at each one. That probably doesn't make me a very good salesman but I have never liked those guys much so I couldn't stand if I was like them. This will be my last post about the power bleeder as this is not what this thread was made for if you want to continue to discuss it you can make a thread about it and we can discuss it there.
In other news, i'd recommend the valvoline stuff as a winter flush, then go back to motul whenever track season returns. (year round down here ).
Sep 21, 2006, 05:42 PM
#28
Pocket Mo
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Washington
Posts: 588
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by WarmPepsi
sure thing, as i said in my edit, your suggestion of the product was great, but jumping in to a make a sale? thats what i called you on.
In other news, i'd recommend the valvoline stuff as a winter flush, then go back to motul whenever track season returns. (year round down here ).
In other news, i'd recommend the valvoline stuff as a winter flush, then go back to motul whenever track season returns. (year round down here ).
Sep 21, 2006, 05:43 PM
#29
Originally Posted by andysoo8284
Lucky brat. Must be nice to live somewhere so sunny. The track seasons up here are way too short.