Rotors warped to hell need help, please read! quick opinion!
Oct 22, 2006, 12:34 PM
#32
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Originally Posted by hvacmike
to bed in pads.
3 60-15 mph stops with medium pedal pressure.
this will get the brakes up to operating temp.
do 6 80-15 stops medium to heavy stops. do not activate the abs, you want to keep the rotors turning.
drive the car for 10 minutes without using the brakes. park the car for about 2 hours, than you should be good to go.
i would say do all bedding at nite out in the country so you dont get a ticket and you dont kill someone. also normally tou can find a road without stop signs so you dont have to stop completely.
it is very very important that you dont stop and leave the brakes engaged with the rotors hot. if you do you will transfer unevenly and the brakes will shake. i would not engage the e-brake eather, you can fuse the e-brakes to the rotor drum surface, then you are really f'ed.
learn to not use the brake while sitting at stop lights. i know its very hard when on a hill, just use the lightest pedal pressure possible. if you can break your habit of keeping you foot o the brake while stopped than you will cure 95% of your warped rotor problems.
3 60-15 mph stops with medium pedal pressure.
this will get the brakes up to operating temp.
do 6 80-15 stops medium to heavy stops. do not activate the abs, you want to keep the rotors turning.
drive the car for 10 minutes without using the brakes. park the car for about 2 hours, than you should be good to go.
i would say do all bedding at nite out in the country so you dont get a ticket and you dont kill someone. also normally tou can find a road without stop signs so you dont have to stop completely.
it is very very important that you dont stop and leave the brakes engaged with the rotors hot. if you do you will transfer unevenly and the brakes will shake. i would not engage the e-brake eather, you can fuse the e-brakes to the rotor drum surface, then you are really f'ed.
learn to not use the brake while sitting at stop lights. i know its very hard when on a hill, just use the lightest pedal pressure possible. if you can break your habit of keeping you foot o the brake while stopped than you will cure 95% of your warped rotor problems.
OMG I am sooo confused. ok I have done this process about 4 times and everytime my brakes feel good for maybe a day and then the shaking comes back but much much worse. So when you all bring the whole bedding idea back up it immedietly deletes what everyone has said before about getting new rotors. im exhausted and I bet most of you all are so thanks for all of your help.
PLEASE ANSWER!
So since I have tried to rebed my pads in and nothing has happened WHAT DO I NEED TO DO NOW?
1= BUY NEW PADS
2=BUY NEW ROTORS
3=BUY BOTH ROTORS AND PADS
4=TRY REBEDDING MY PADS IN FOR A 5TH TIME AND WASTE GAS AND TIME AND BRAKES?
5=SINCE I CUT MY ROTORS 4 TIMES EACH SINCE THEY WERE WARPED MY ROTORS ARE CURRENTLY REALLY SMALLER THEN STOCK SO DO I NEED NEW ROTORS TO HAVE THEM BEDDED PROPERLY.
PLEASE CONTINUE TO HELP, ALL MY BASIC QUESTIONS HAVE GONE ANSWERED BUT THEN ANSWERED DIFFERNTLY BY THE SAME PEOPLE.
I am very confused please... man I am exhausted trying to ask the samething over and getting different answers.
Thanks
-Matt
Oct 22, 2006, 01:52 PM
#33
Originally Posted by whitersevo
so when you get new rotors.. dont you turn them because they are uneven from the factory. or do you just put them on??
Oct 22, 2006, 01:54 PM
#34
Originally Posted by DingDong02
OMG I am sooo confused. ok I have done this process about 4 times and everytime my brakes feel good for maybe a day and then the shaking comes back but much much worse. So when you all bring the whole bedding idea back up it immedietly deletes what everyone has said before about getting new rotors. im exhausted and I bet most of you all are so thanks for all of your help.
PLEASE ANSWER!
So since I have tried to rebed my pads in and nothing has happened WHAT DO I NEED TO DO NOW?
1= BUY NEW PADS
2=BUY NEW ROTORS
3=BUY BOTH ROTORS AND PADS
4=TRY REBEDDING MY PADS IN FOR A 5TH TIME AND WASTE GAS AND TIME AND BRAKES?
5=SINCE I CUT MY ROTORS 4 TIMES EACH SINCE THEY WERE WARPED MY ROTORS ARE CURRENTLY REALLY SMALLER THEN STOCK SO DO I NEED NEW ROTORS TO HAVE THEM BEDDED PROPERLY.
PLEASE CONTINUE TO HELP, ALL MY BASIC QUESTIONS HAVE GONE ANSWERED BUT THEN ANSWERED DIFFERNTLY BY THE SAME PEOPLE.
I am very confused please... man I am exhausted trying to ask the samething over and getting different answers.
Thanks
-Matt
PLEASE ANSWER!
So since I have tried to rebed my pads in and nothing has happened WHAT DO I NEED TO DO NOW?
1= BUY NEW PADS
2=BUY NEW ROTORS
3=BUY BOTH ROTORS AND PADS
4=TRY REBEDDING MY PADS IN FOR A 5TH TIME AND WASTE GAS AND TIME AND BRAKES?
5=SINCE I CUT MY ROTORS 4 TIMES EACH SINCE THEY WERE WARPED MY ROTORS ARE CURRENTLY REALLY SMALLER THEN STOCK SO DO I NEED NEW ROTORS TO HAVE THEM BEDDED PROPERLY.
PLEASE CONTINUE TO HELP, ALL MY BASIC QUESTIONS HAVE GONE ANSWERED BUT THEN ANSWERED DIFFERNTLY BY THE SAME PEOPLE.
I am very confused please... man I am exhausted trying to ask the samething over and getting different answers.
Thanks
-Matt
YOU SAID you need new rotors, because your stuff has been turned.
It's really not that hard. If they've been turned, then get new ones. We can't maintain your evo for you, you have to do it yourself.
Also, when the light on the dash comes on, get gas.
Oct 22, 2006, 01:59 PM
#35
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Dude, relax. You sound like your hyperventilating. You're confused? What's there to be confused about? Honestly, I don't know why I'm trying to help you out anymore, as you sound helpless.
1. Might as well buy new pads. They're not that expensive. You can always use your current pads for emergency use.
2. Duh! If your current rotors are below operating limits, replace them.
3. Yes, yes, to new rotors and pads - just covered that with question 1 and 2.
4. What's the point of a re-bed if your rotors need to be replaced?
5. Layoff the drugs and start making sense. All you're doing is repeating yourself and sounding stupid.
Just get new rotors and pads and stop posting threads that make you out to be a complete idiot.
1. Might as well buy new pads. They're not that expensive. You can always use your current pads for emergency use.
2. Duh! If your current rotors are below operating limits, replace them.
3. Yes, yes, to new rotors and pads - just covered that with question 1 and 2.
4. What's the point of a re-bed if your rotors need to be replaced?
5. Layoff the drugs and start making sense. All you're doing is repeating yourself and sounding stupid.
Just get new rotors and pads and stop posting threads that make you out to be a complete idiot.
Last edited by EVO X Owner-2-B; Oct 22, 2006 at 05:53 PM.
Oct 22, 2006, 02:38 PM
#36
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Min thickness 1.26" Max runout 0.0012". So dingdong tell us exactly how you bedded in you rotors please. I've cut my rotors and have done several track days and a few autocrosses since and they still work great.
Oct 22, 2006, 03:22 PM
#37
"Warped rotors" are an urban myth, search. I remember a guy, I think from stoptech laid it out clearly in a post here.
Because the calipers clamp on a rotating thickness, the slightest variation in thickness of the rotors will produce vibration.
Because the calipers clamp on a rotating thickness, the slightest variation in thickness of the rotors will produce vibration.
Oct 22, 2006, 05:04 PM
#39
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Originally Posted by cfdfireman1
Min thickness 1.26" Max runout 0.0012". So dingdong tell us exactly how you bedded in you rotors please. I've cut my rotors and have done several track days and a few autocrosses since and they still work great.
Took the car to 60-15,60-15,60-15... thats to warm them up, then 70-15,70-15,70-15,70-15,65-15,65-15 I did this in a desserted area about 15mins from my house so the whole drive home I never used the brakes. I then let them sit overnight. About a few week later my steering wheel started to shake so I read that maybe I didnt bed the pads in properly so I did it again but more times. The brakes felt fine for a day or so and then the steering wheel started to violently shake along with the pedal and whole car. I rebbed the brakes AGAIN, and then again, each time doing the process longer. Its been over 1 1/2 months and my brakes are horrible.
I admit that I have a habit of putting my foot on the brake when at a light or in traffic.
OK, now for the part that is confusing you all and me.
Most everyone here agrees that rotors are almost never warped but not bedded in properly, correct? So with that in mind why would some of you tell me to buy new rotors if rotors are almost never warped?
^^^^That was the main thing that confused me the most.
My rotors cannot receive another resurfacing because I have resurfaced them to their limit. Hence, I need new rotors. I think I got it.
You all don't have to be rude though. I am just hearing alot of different sides to this supposedly easy subject and it is really confusing me. Thanks to all that have held back the rude comments and have a better attitude towards helping a fellow member out in a time of need.
-Matt
Oct 22, 2006, 05:37 PM
#40
Originally Posted by DingDong02
So with that in mind why would some of you tell me to buy new rotors if rotors are almost never warped?
My rotors cannot receive another resurfacing because I have resurfaced them to their limit. Hence, I need new rotors. I think I got it.
My rotors cannot receive another resurfacing because I have resurfaced them to their limit. Hence, I need new rotors. I think I got it.
So, you need rotors., a 17 and a 19 wrench (combo works great) a hammer and a punch pin. That'll change everything you have. (for just the rotors, you don't need to pull the pads, so you just need the wrenches.
Oct 22, 2006, 05:45 PM
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"bad attitude Today, 07:13 PM
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The point of a forum to me is to help out fellow members in a time of need with different complications they have. Your comments on the thread I made was completely of a poor attitude and didn't help this fine forum. Maybe I do sound crazy, on drugs, and am a complete idiot but when you just plainly cut someone down infront of an audience it sounds condiscending and impolite. I will be notifying the admin of your poor attitude and I hope you later understand all of this and learn from it.
-Matt" a.k.a. Ding Dong
Dude, I'm sorry if I hurt your feelings ... but, really, you should go back and read what all you posted. You weren't paying attention to what good advice was given and were constantly repeating yourself over and over again. Remember, a little common sense goes a long way.
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The point of a forum to me is to help out fellow members in a time of need with different complications they have. Your comments on the thread I made was completely of a poor attitude and didn't help this fine forum. Maybe I do sound crazy, on drugs, and am a complete idiot but when you just plainly cut someone down infront of an audience it sounds condiscending and impolite. I will be notifying the admin of your poor attitude and I hope you later understand all of this and learn from it.
-Matt" a.k.a. Ding Dong
Dude, I'm sorry if I hurt your feelings ... but, really, you should go back and read what all you posted. You weren't paying attention to what good advice was given and were constantly repeating yourself over and over again. Remember, a little common sense goes a long way.
Last edited by EVO X Owner-2-B; Oct 22, 2006 at 07:47 PM.
Oct 22, 2006, 06:39 PM
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I hope i wasnt being rude.
1) bottom line is replace your rotors. if your pads atill have at least 1/2 of what was originally there just keep the pads. If the pads are more than 1/2 gone then replace them.
2) bottom line, if your brakes are hot and you stop and keep your foot on the brake pedal you will tranfer alot more pad materal to the rotor than when you are moving with the brake applied. than your brakes will vibrate.
1) bottom line is replace your rotors. if your pads atill have at least 1/2 of what was originally there just keep the pads. If the pads are more than 1/2 gone then replace them.
2) bottom line, if your brakes are hot and you stop and keep your foot on the brake pedal you will tranfer alot more pad materal to the rotor than when you are moving with the brake applied. than your brakes will vibrate.
Oct 22, 2006, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by hvacmike
I hope i wasnt being rude.
1) bottom line is replace your rotors. if your pads atill have at least 1/2 of what was originally there just keep the pads. If the pads are more than 1/2 gone then replace them.
2) bottom line, if your brakes are hot and you stop and keep your foot on the brake pedal you will tranfer alot more pad materal to the rotor than when you are moving with the brake applied. than your brakes will vibrate.
1) bottom line is replace your rotors. if your pads atill have at least 1/2 of what was originally there just keep the pads. If the pads are more than 1/2 gone then replace them.
2) bottom line, if your brakes are hot and you stop and keep your foot on the brake pedal you will tranfer alot more pad materal to the rotor than when you are moving with the brake applied. than your brakes will vibrate.
Thats all I wanted to know. That just answered my question. I really appreciate all of your help and warmpepsi's. Thanks again
-Matt
Oct 23, 2006, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by cfdfireman1
Don't forget to clean the new rotors well with brake clean and torque the lug nuts in proper order to specs.
Thanks! My friend who did the install didnt torque down my lug nuts, he just guestimated with an impact wrench. Why do you need to clean new rotors with brake parts cleaner? I have heard of that but never knew why. Also someone was telling me to take a rough grate sand paper and lightly go over my older pads before I put them on new rotors? If anyone has any opinions on that it would be really helpful. Thanks again
-Matt