im guessing u got a bad batch.. it happens.. i have no problems with mine.. and i havent heard of any others so far..

brake dust is horrible imo... i guess i like having a clean car.. to each its own..

 

Does anyone have a short bible of brake care?

How do you break 'em in? I know that you shouldn't wash the rotors when they're hot and hard braking is a no no until warmed up and during the break in period.

Also, I've heard that torquing the lugs equally and correctly is really important...

What else can be done?

 

spool - the thing is what im starting to fear is that its not "a bad batch". my good friend, a certified mitsu evo tech says that mitsu rotors in general (on all their cars) are garbage. i dont know how other owners are using their brakes, but I often get mine to full operating temperatures and keep them their for a good few minutes while beating the hell out of the car on my favorite winding roads and exit/on ramps (maybe close to or even at temps. reached while racing/auto-x) . i enjoy braking more than acclerating in my evo. the blue tint in my rotors and the wear in the rotor/pad contact surface doesnt bother me - they should not warp though.

kurichan-you pretty much got it spot on. i dont really know about the washing them when hot deal, but when you have braked hard, do not just stop driving the car, you have to continue to keep the rotors spinning - ie keep driving the car with less brake force to allow them to cool down. keeps them from warping

 

New rotors every month? I'm trying to figure out how to make it through a single track day without judder! If nothing changes, to race this car I would need a set of rotors for practice, another for qualifying and a third set for the race, which I don't think would go the distance. I don't think Mitsu will address this issue as it has been a problem overseas for years.
Cheers,

 

Hi Claudius,
Would a less aggressive organic pad help up front? I know it's going backwards but the stock front rotor can't handle aggressive bite. Also, can the bias be adjusted toward the rear with EBD/ABS? I'm not sure exactly how the system works, but have read that it is diagonal.
Cheers,

 

I can't believe some of you think you need to upgrade these brakes. WTF are you smoking???

Please read this: http://ww.stoptech.com/whitepapers/w...otors_myth.htm

Your rotors are NOT warping. That is a myth. Get better pads.

 

maddmatt - for right now its all about the "warranty". mitsubishi is gonna fix the problem - no matter what it is rotors or pads. one of the BEST ASPECTS of the Evo seems to be a part prone to failure, and with all these magazines hyping the evo's brakes and setting records blah blah - its only better for me and i know they will even take bigger steps to fix it now......

having read the stoptech editorial-
if brakes have to be broken-in in such a rigorous and precise manner, Mitsubish should do it for the consumer. they just brought a bunch of problems on themselves having the consumer break in the brakes and covering it under warranty....

the stoptech editorial still didnt explain y there is a uniform shake/vibration in the car and steering wheel once the pads have been unevenly worn.

on another note, i may turn to carbotech in the future for the panther, or probably a less aggressive pad. i had them in my corolla and they were fantastic, well fantastic besides the dust eating the paint on my rims and eating away at the rotor. is there still a shop in ft. lauderdale?

 

Ah, warranty. Not used to dealing with stuff like that (I have 10 y.o. cars )

The Panthers are far less rotor agressive and far less corrosive than most of our competition. I don't consider any mile street pad to be competition for the Panther. I'm talking Blue, R4, etc.

Try LTB Motorsports in Melbourne. Or call us direct at the phone number in my signature. We have the Evo brake pad.

Matt

 

Great point I never thought about. Truth be told, I am very guilty of this sin, especially in my wife's BMW. Fortunately, I've never had a problem.

Thanks!

 

Make no mistake they have had this trouble for as long as I have own Mitsubishi's. In 1991 I took delivery of a new Diamante (now with 178k miles) and in early 1993 picked up a Galant VR-4 (now with 176k miles) and they both had rotors and pads replaced under warranty more than once. Whenever I do any brake work it is always replacing rotors and pads. There never was a time that the pads just wore out or even the rotors needing resurfacing it was always just replace everything.

It does not suprise me one bit that I will continue to do the same with the Tarmac black. I would be interested in hearing any success regarding this problem. For example different rotors or different pads. As I remember my favorite dealer who replaced these parts under warranty stated that they used inferior metal which caused the trouble. I have never tried any other rotors so I do not know if this is true.

My .02c

Flybyevo...

 

Maddmatt,
Perhaps the brake issue is not clear. I personally believe the rotor problem to be a friction surface problem. What is occuring is that no matter how carefully you try to bed brakes on the stock rotors, you can't seem to get an even coating of material with a carbon metallic racepad. Hence, the judder.
Cheers,