Boiling fluid no more! UPDATE.
#1
Boiling fluid no more! UPDATE.
I posted a while back a thread that I boiled my ATE fluid last open track event. I took everyones advice and made some modifications to my braking system. I still am running carbo-tech xp12/10's on the car but I changed the fluid from ATE to Motul, Added some Ti shims in the front, removed the shield from behind the rotor, made some DYI 3 inch ducting running to the brakes. The ducting took about 3 hrs to do (routing 3 inch tube is a bastard on the evo) and cost about 5 bucks to make. After these modifications the brakes are great,no issues of fad, heat, boiling etc. Matter of fact I had FTD of the day yesterday and bested my time by a 1/2 second. (granted there were only 15 cars )
So if any one is having braking issues consider some Motul fluid, Giro Disc Ti shims,and some cheap *** ducting. Made all the difference in the world. I am going to try to post pics of the ducting soon.
Thought I would share.
So if any one is having braking issues consider some Motul fluid, Giro Disc Ti shims,and some cheap *** ducting. Made all the difference in the world. I am going to try to post pics of the ducting soon.
Thought I would share.
#3
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Where did you get the ducting and what kind did you get? I went to Home Depot last weekend, but could not find what we used like 8 years ago with Porsche race cars...Also I was thinking about having the pick up below the front bumper (catching air coming under the car) so as to not take anything away from the LICP or oil cooler....Thoughts?
Please post pictures Thanks
Please post pictures Thanks
#5
I would think Motul makes improvement over fluid boiling. Ducting will sure help is correctly set up. Evo brakes need better cooling, many OEM Brembo brakes have front caliper located on the rearward rather than front, maybe better for cooling?
#6
Originally Posted by cij911
Where did you get the ducting and what kind did you get? I went to Home Depot last weekend, but could not find what we used like 8 years ago with Porsche race cars...Also I was thinking about having the pick up below the front bumper (catching air coming under the car) so as to not take anything away from the LICP or oil cooler....Thoughts?
Please post pictures Thanks
Please post pictures Thanks
#7
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The difference between boiling ATE and boiling Motul is like 30 degrees - seems doubtful that you were at the point of boiling the ATE but still below that of the Motul.
The shims insulate the pistons from the pad - and more air and an open dust shield are adding a lot of cooling to the rotor and caliper.
Nice work.
The shims insulate the pistons from the pad - and more air and an open dust shield are adding a lot of cooling to the rotor and caliper.
Nice work.
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#8
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Originally Posted by Kidloco51
I posted a while back a thread that I boiled my ATE fluid last open track event. I took everyones advice and made some modifications to my braking system. I still am running carbo-tech xp12/10's on the car but I changed the fluid from ATE to Motul, Added some Ti shims in the front, removed the shield from behind the rotor, made some DYI 3 inch ducting running to the brakes. The ducting took about 3 hrs to do (routing 3 inch tube is a bastard on the evo) and cost about 5 bucks to make. After these modifications the brakes are great,no issues of fad, heat, boiling etc. Matter of fact I had FTD of the day yesterday and bested my time by a 1/2 second. (granted there were only 15 cars )
So if any one is having braking issues consider some Motul fluid, Giro Disc Ti shims,and some cheap *** ducting. Made all the difference in the world. I am going to try to post pics of the ducting soon.
Thought I would share.
So if any one is having braking issues consider some Motul fluid, Giro Disc Ti shims,and some cheap *** ducting. Made all the difference in the world. I am going to try to post pics of the ducting soon.
Thought I would share.
Did you do anything to the rear rotors?
#13
Crappy camera phone pics when I first did it. (I am repainting my garage floors so I don't have access to my lift to take better pics ) notice how the ducting doesn't go straight to the rotor? This is reason I want to use 2 inch and route it on the control arm some how to the rotor. You can get the basic jist though. It needs work for sure