I put some swifts on my car about a week and a half ago and took it in to get aligned today.
The measurements were:

front caster was 3.6 on both sides
camber was -0.06 and -0.07 on the front
total toe was 0.01
rear camber was -1.0 and -0.9
rear toe was 0.14 and 0.16 and 0.30 tota
rear thrust angle is -0.01


On the print out that he gave me everything is in the green besides the camber but he said I am maxed out for adjustment, but its not that big of a deal. The car feels great and doesnt pull and feels way more stable in corners then it did before. So is it fine the way it sits? I plan on taking a couple track days with it, but nothing serious at all, mostly freeway with some spirited brack roads driving from time to time.

 

I could be speaking way out of turn here as I don't own an Evo (but want to get one someday - and surely will), but the front camber looks a little low to me.

Edit: did a bit of reading on the forum.. sounds like -1.5 to -1.8 would be a good "trade-off" setting (daily driver / occasional autocross / track) that shouldn't hurt daily street tires too much but give enough front-end bite.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=79289

 

You need to relist those stats. That camber in the front looks like it is what the caster is.

 

did ya go to the dealer? or where?

i need to get my car aligned but dont know where to go... my previous cars had free maintnence (bmw & audi) so everything always went to the dealer


thanks!

 

nope thats what it says.

 

What are the stock settings?

 

Actually, those front camber numbers look like they should be the front toe...

camber was -0.06 and -0.07 on the front
total toe was 0.01

It adds up.. has to be toe.

 

So since I put them up correctly Im assuming that they arent what they should be??????????

So what should they be.... And most importantly what is stock? That way I can get them to do it for free.

 

* 3.6 deg is within the factory spec for caster. That's good because caster is not adjustable with the factory top mounts
* -0.07 deg of camber is too little. A better number would be around -1.5 deg. The factory camber bolts are supposed to only allow a setting of -1 deg or -2 deg. Some people have had success with carefully turning the bolts to get between -1 and -2 deg.
* front toe should be 0 deg or 0"

* rear camber is somewhat of a driver pref value. Going to around 0 deg will allow more oversteer. More negative values, say -1 to -2 deg will shift the balance towards understeeer.
* total rear toe should be around 1/8". This helps with straight line stability both at low and high speed.
* thrust angle should always be zero

 

So basicly I just need more camber in the front? Does anyone know what stock is suppose to be? Not what it should be, but what factory settings are.

 

Don't know what stock is but it's probably some fairly generic "safety" setting with mediocre (low) front camber to induce understeer. They do it to make you slow down in the turns and ensure the rear doesn't slide out on you.

I'm sure they also put in some cross-caster to counter act the tilt of the road so it'll drive straight when you let go of the wheel instead of drifting to the right..

They also put a bit of inward-toe to ensure the car is stable.. and doesn't get light or squirly and doesn't track grooves within the pavement.

If you're into stock alignments - you can pretty much take your car to any tire shop, they type in the make, model, and year of your car into the alignment machine and it'll tell them what to set everything to for factory specs. No biggie.

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I personally think factory alignments are boring. BUT - they are NOT for everyone and certainly have their tradeoffs.

I personally like the idea of going zero toe all around, stock caster (maybe a bit more negative) with zero cross-caster. Now all you have to do is figure out camber. I'd go for about -1.8 front and about -1 rear from what I've heard. In the end, though, there is a bit of trial and error involved.

The idea is to lessen the understeer without invoking oversteer - balance is the key and is the fastest way. Zero toes and zero-cross caster will make the car "very light on it's feet" but driving it may take a great deal more concentration as it can feel like a balancing act - particularly on tilted or grooved pavement. It's not for everyone but it can make the car seriously fun to drive.. Like go-cart fun!

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Of course all this is based on my experience setting up and autocrossing in a RWD car so some of what I'm saying may not apply as much in the case of the Evo. The above comments were really just generalizations - don't take my word as the gospel truth.

Ask a regional SCCA champ..

 

Stock settings:

FRONT
Toe: 0 ± 2 mm (0 ± 0.08 inch)
Camber (Selectable from 2 options): -1°00’ ± 30’* or -2°00’ ± 30’*
Caster: 3°55’ ± 30’*

REAR
Toe: 3 ± 2 mm (0.12 ± 0.07 inch)
Camber: −1° 00' ± 30' (difference between right and left wheel: less than 30')
Thrust angle: 0°00’ ± 0°09’

 

You could do with removing some of the toe at the rear. The amount of rear toe that you have now is going to increase tire wear and cause the car to more readily push in the corners. You could go with zero toe at the rear, but as the other poster said, it does make the car more squirelly, esp with road grooves. I'd leave a little toe-in at the rear, and use camber to tune handling balance.

If you take the car to the typical tire installation shops for an alignment, all those guys are instructed to do is check to see that the alignment is within factory tolerances and adjust as needed. They will put as little effort as possible into it. Unless you ask them, they will not equalize the left/right values. I suggest calling around to find a shop that will set the values to exactly what you want (including precisely equalizing the left/right values).

 

I think you are reading it wrong, or they mistyped/misprinted. It would make no sense to have basically 0 camber unless they totally screwed up. You would want at least -1.0 camber in front (just like in the rear), but you can go as far as -2.0 for the most performance without killing the tires. 0 toe all around would be ideal for you, too.

 

The front camber isn't correct. Adjustment really just has two settings either: -1 or -2. Assuming you're using the unit degrees 0.06 isn't realistic.

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