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Front sway bar delete?

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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 01:13 AM
  #31  
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From: wIscoN SIN
I would actually try a weaker front sway bar or thicker mounts, the transition will be smoother but not "upset" your handling. I have fixed some handling problems by taking off the top bars but not tried it on an EVO. I personally oversteer vs understeer...I must setup my corner differently.
Old Jul 20, 2007 | 01:16 AM
  #32  
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From: wIscoN SIN
Handling tune...

Actually the use of adjustable coilovers might set your turning attitude more "right" for you.
Old Aug 8, 2007 | 08:37 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by smack_evo
^^^so the grip on acceleration wouldn't be affected but the braking scenario still holds?
i thought that as a car gets stiffer you get less roll(left/right or front/rear depending on enertia). isn't there a center line of any vehicle and the more roll the more of the vehicle ends up on one side of that center line?

i guess it's time to read some suspension books
It sounds like you're talking about roll centers, and the roll axis. The higher the roll center, the more resistant the car is to roll on that axle, kind of like adding a big swaybar. Low roll centers lead to more roll.

The roll axis is a line that connects the front and rear roll centers, but from my understanding, the car doesn't actually rotate about the roll axis (). I'm still trying to figure out the exact function of the roll axis...
Old Oct 13, 2007 | 12:21 AM
  #34  
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I've got a mazda 323 GTX (AWD, with locking center diff and 50/50 power distribution), and the first thing I did was to remove the front sway bar. It lets the front tires grip the dirt a bit better and helped to combat the understeer. It feels great on the dirt, but as soon as you're trying to drive fast on pavement, it feels like you're piloting a boat.

Dave
Old Oct 18, 2007 | 01:14 AM
  #35  
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From: on the edge of sanity
I just skimmed this thread, but you guys cannot forget that too stiff of a bar will actuall tunload the inside tires altogether, and that is NOT the best grip scenario. I believe an optimal balance can be achieved with the stock bars, you just have to pick your spring rates correctly. I need to find the equation to fi nd the wheel rate w/ swaybar forces added in (its meant to be a rough estimate)


Evolutionary, do you mind if I ask what your spring rates are? I plan on running stock sway bars as well, and lately ive been getting mixed signals from others I have been talking with. Im still working with people to get matched valving to spring rataes, but everyones reccommending different things, lol. Lately im just compiling as much data as I can, and being that im ~ 300 lbs lighter than evo 8/9's, I can base my rates off what I find. If you dont want to share your setup I understand, or if you dont want it public, feel free to PM me.
Old Oct 19, 2007 | 03:31 AM
  #36  
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Back from the dead!

Dave- We are both rally guys and as such we both like chucking front bars at the dumpster. I still have the front bar on my evo but adjusted quite well to not having one on my last VW. It did feel a bit mushy at turn in but just as soon as you felt that hesitation the thing would bite and hold like a pitbull. I got real accustomed to it.

One thing that I think need to be said is that the stock suspension on the Evo is just a masterpiece. I still have an MR system on my RS and beat it on the epic back roads of SE Ohio (think of the dragons tail, just tighter) and find really no flaws in the system as it sits. When I go to track days however as I plan to this weekend at Mid Ohio and things are a little less than ideal.

As things stand right now I'm talking to a company that uses Koni race shocks to build customs systems for Evos and Subys about my thoughts, likes and dreams. I'm not sure what we will cook up but I don't want to lose dynamic travel and would like to keep as much real world ability as possible but I need to get under 1:45 at Mid Ohio... just gotta. I can do that as I sit with better tires and better me but that next 5 seconds...

Were gonna have to work on that.
Old Oct 19, 2007 | 10:07 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by FatheroftheEVO
I just skimmed this thread, but you guys cannot forget that too stiff of a bar will actuall tunload the inside tires altogether, and that is NOT the best grip scenario. I believe an optimal balance can be achieved with the stock bars, you just have to pick your spring rates correctly. I need to find the equation to fi nd the wheel rate w/ swaybar forces added in (its meant to be a rough estimate)


Evolutionary, do you mind if I ask what your spring rates are? I plan on running stock sway bars as well, and lately ive been getting mixed signals from others I have been talking with. Im still working with people to get matched valving to spring rataes, but everyones reccommending different things, lol. Lately im just compiling as much data as I can, and being that im ~ 300 lbs lighter than evo 8/9's, I can base my rates off what I find. If you dont want to share your setup I understand, or if you dont want it public, feel free to PM me.
I don't know if it's been mentioned yet, but I think the more grip you have (fatter tires, stickier tires, good shocks, downforce, etc) the stiffer you need to go. Also, I think stiffer front end will help reduce rear inside wheel lift.

As far as spring rates, are you talking about for your older EVO? It probably has different geometry than the EVO VII-IX so spring rates may not be comparable. I have a buddy with a GTI whose spring rates are about half of mine, and his car rides considerably more stiff.
Old Oct 19, 2007 | 12:37 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by EVOlutionary
I don't know if it's been mentioned yet, but I think the more grip you have (fatter tires, stickier tires, good shocks, downforce, etc) the stiffer you need to go. Also, I think stiffer front end will help reduce rear inside wheel lift.

As far as spring rates, are you talking about for your older EVO? It probably has different geometry than the EVO VII-IX so spring rates may not be comparable. I have a buddy with a GTI whose spring rates are about half of mine, and his car rides considerably more stiff.
Yea you definately need higher rates the more grip you get.

As for the older evos, theyre actually nearly identical suspensions. the front hubs have small differences, but otherwise everything else is the same.
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