sonicnofadz

iTrader: (4)

I will probably going with a -2.5 front camber, and -1 rear camber for AutoX this season, does anyone know of a decent street tire I could use in between events? I will be running kuhmo v710's, but when not racing I would like a street tire that wouldn't immediately cord itself when driving on public streets. Any suggestions?

CoreyR

iTrader: (5)

Almost any street tire will be fine with the camber settings you listed as long as your toe is zero'd. Toe wears tires, not camber.

Corey #89 STU

DaWorstPlaya

iTrader: (31)

+1 ... it's toe that is the tire killer

What size V710s are you running?

ispeedtoo

I hate to be fly in the posting here but I have a camber problem and It is eating my tires. My driver sdie was -1.70 and the tires on that side were rotated and died at 4500 miles.

ispeedtoo

The best the shop could do was get it to -1.48, I changed dampers and springs from VIII to MR's. The problem came right back. The driver side was set in Vegas and I drove to Reno and it was back at -1.70 again. The alignment shop ordered me some camber adjustment bolts for the upper bolt. They will be in next week and I will have the Camber reset to mid way in the acceptable range.

kekek

iTrader: (22)

You shouldn't have any negative wear issues below -2 deg camber. Make SURE the tech sets you front toe to ZERO and rear toe about 1/16 IN. The OEM camber bolts should hold fine provided the install them correctly and they are torqued to spec (130 ft-lbs). I didn't have any issues with mine (camber bolts or tires) in over 10K miles and 20 autox events (autox only on 285 R-compounds) and -3 deg!

sonicnofadz

iTrader: (4)

Strange, last year I set my camber to similar settings and my Michelin pilot sports all wore down to the cords on the inside within 15,000 miles. Not sure, maybe those tires just suck. Thanks for everyone's input, I appreciate it!

CBRD

iTrader: (60)

yeah,

i agree with what is said here,

toe kills tires...

bump steer issues could kill it in the corners... dragging the inside with the camber and toe together...

but generally its incorrect toe, and straightline tracking

cb

Warrtalon

iTrader: (6)

Sonic, I just switch to my street setting between races (-1.5f/-1.0r) with 0 toe so that I have no wear issues. I only put it at -3.0f and 1/16th toe for races.

YogSaahoth

iTrader: (9)

i dont think anyone actually answered ur original question. i believe nitto makes a tire for negative camber with higher wear on the innner portion of the rubber. to be honest i saw them in an ad in a magazine and the only info given was what i just stated, so i dont know how they actually turned out on the street. nto1 maybe? check it out

Utah-evo

nitto neo gen.but i havent heard anithing about them besides the ad

WarmPepsi

iTrader: (35)

just run something with a super treadwear.

the harder the tire, the longer it lasts.

sonicnofadz

iTrader: (4)

I would rather not have to switch my camber in between races because I lack the knowledge and equipment to do the proper alignment, so it will cost alot of time and money to have it done every month in between races to go to a shop. I will look into the Nitto's, I thought I saw an advertisement for a street tire that claimed to take to negative camber better than others, but couldn't remember what tire it was. I guess I could always switch to a higher treadwear, but then I wouldn't have any grip! =)

V.8MR

iTrader: (6)

And the more it sucks. If you like grip i mean.

Warrtalon

iTrader: (6)

No, that's not what I was saying. You get two custom alignments - one for street and one for race. You have the camber plates marked for each setting, and you write down the number of turns on the tie rod for changing toe to spec. Leave the rear the same for both race and street, and then when it's time to race, you spend 15-20 mins changing the camber and toe up front. The only tools I need are an alan wrench for the camber plates and two 22mm wrenches for the tie rods.

Simple, easy, and effective. You don't have to go get re-aligned each month...