Lowering springs for EVO 9 with bilstein
#17
Well Warrtalon maybe you should see what Robi has to say about that. Some of the fastest cars he has tuned have Swift or Espelir springs and swaybars. Why buy cheap coilovers that will wear out fast. Springs, bushings, swaybar cost about $650, find coilover that are that much and will last, megans are more money and are known not to last the longest. For everyday driving and some track (not everybody is hardcore track monkey) I think Swift or Espelir would be fine. Talk to Robi he will set you up right.
#20
Well Warrtalon maybe you should see what Robi has to say about that. Some of the fastest cars he has tuned have Swift or Espelir springs and swaybars. Why buy cheap coilovers that will wear out fast. Springs, bushings, swaybar cost about $650, find coilover that are that much and will last, megans are more money and are known not to last the longest. For everyday driving and some track (not everybody is hardcore track monkey) I think Swift or Espelir would be fine. Talk to Robi he will set you up right.
I getting ready to buy a set of megans and are curious...
#22
Progress, Whiteline and Cusco all make great swaybars. As long as they fit without rubbing issues they are all great.
Last edited by DaWorstPlaya; Feb 26, 2007 at 02:02 PM.
#24
I agree totally with the above. From my experience a good spring (ie swift or Espelir) have a good reputation of working great with the stock struts and turn some pretty good laptimes and last for quite awhile, and are comfortable on a day to day basis. On the other hand you have megan coilovers, yes they may be a tad bit better for the track guru but at the cost of longevity. Cheap coilovers wont last that long, maybe 1-2 years with regular tracking, sometimes less. A good coilover will last quite a bit longer but you will pay to play, at least $1200-$2000 for decent ones. So for if you go the coilover route just save for good ones, if not 99.9% of people with the above mentioned springs, swaybars, and bushings are totally satisfied. For andber most the 25mm adjustable rear swaybars are similiar, pick the one you like. Most people use RRE, Perrin, Cusco, Progress ect. Brake pads I have always had good experience with ferodo 2500 series, if you need more the 3000 series are good also. There are quite a few pads that work good though.
Last edited by dbsears; Feb 27, 2007 at 03:04 PM.
#27
Warrtalon is right about the benefits of corner balancing and the fact that coilovers may negate the need for a rear stabilizer bar, plus they often come with camber plates, and the adjustability per dollar is great.
However on the issue of the dampers themselves, valving, and durability, there are also benefits to the Bilsteins. Maybe not benefits you will definitely appreciate in the first year, but enough that I have even considered a Bilstein/Ground control setup to combine the benefits of the Bilsteins longevity, appropriate valving, etc with the ability of corner weighting. Unfortunately the cost of executing such a setup properly pretty much warrants just getting a coilover setup, so I don't know of anyone who has.
There is alot of misinformation and downright ignorance about suspensions, adjustability, etc. More clicks doesn't mean more adjustable, more adjustable doesn't mean more options for optimum handling, lower doesn't mean improved handling, setting "X" on the front left damper doesn't always equal setting "X" on front right damper, etc.
Here are some interesting and important thing to consider when thinking about dampers:
http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets.html
However on the issue of the dampers themselves, valving, and durability, there are also benefits to the Bilsteins. Maybe not benefits you will definitely appreciate in the first year, but enough that I have even considered a Bilstein/Ground control setup to combine the benefits of the Bilsteins longevity, appropriate valving, etc with the ability of corner weighting. Unfortunately the cost of executing such a setup properly pretty much warrants just getting a coilover setup, so I don't know of anyone who has.
There is alot of misinformation and downright ignorance about suspensions, adjustability, etc. More clicks doesn't mean more adjustable, more adjustable doesn't mean more options for optimum handling, lower doesn't mean improved handling, setting "X" on the front left damper doesn't always equal setting "X" on front right damper, etc.
Here are some interesting and important thing to consider when thinking about dampers:
http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets.html
#28
Yo guys... I just orderd from bilstein europe a suspension kit for my IX.
Its a full setup non-adjustble. its called b12 for evo 7-8-9.
It lowers the front with 35 mm and 20 mm in the back.
The price would be 1400 $.... and it is a full kit made by bilstein.
I think the known relibility and performance is well known ... so why bother making improvisations?
Its a full setup non-adjustble. its called b12 for evo 7-8-9.
It lowers the front with 35 mm and 20 mm in the back.
The price would be 1400 $.... and it is a full kit made by bilstein.
I think the known relibility and performance is well known ... so why bother making improvisations?
#30
Yo guys... I just orderd from bilstein europe a suspension kit for my IX.
Its a full setup non-adjustble. its called b12 for evo 7-8-9.
It lowers the front with 35 mm and 20 mm in the back.
The price would be 1400 $.... and it is a full kit made by bilstein.
I think the known relibility and performance is well known ... so why bother making improvisations?
Its a full setup non-adjustble. its called b12 for evo 7-8-9.
It lowers the front with 35 mm and 20 mm in the back.
The price would be 1400 $.... and it is a full kit made by bilstein.
I think the known relibility and performance is well known ... so why bother making improvisations?
Thanks