Blue Evo 8

iTrader: (40)

Did they ever give ya any problems?

kingkyle

iTrader: (25)

Performance Friction 2pc rotors died after a few events...

RacingBrake 2pc rotors have been on for 20+ events and still stop like day1

RacingBrake 2pc rotors are very proven rotors and cost less.

-Kyle

jbrown

iTrader: (17)

It must depend on what pads you are using because I have heard exactly the opposite.

What pads do you use? Did you use the same pads on both rotors?

Vigo

Go with the Racing Brake two piece front and rear rotors. In my opinion they are the best when it come to performance. The center mount design is good for keeping force induced by heavy braking to be even, which will increase durability. That also results in better hat and rotor cooling.

As for the rear rotor, it uses a cast iron brake hat so that it will be able to retain proper emergency braking when you pull the e-brake, because cast iron is better as a friction surface than steel or aluminum.

The down side with the Racing Brake rotors is that they are heavy compared to other rotors in the market, but they are still lighter than stock, because of the two piece design.

PFC

Please contact me about your PFC rotors "dying" .
With more than 150,000 race rotors sold around the world, we have yet to have a competitors rotor outlast ours. I would like to know the details on your experience with our product.

Best regards,
Phil Gilsdorf
Performance Friction Corp.

GTWORX.com

iTrader: (35)

Drewatgtworx: how many track days do you have on your pfc rotors
Danatgtworx: uhhh
Danatgtworx: probably 10
Drewatgtworx: plenty of life left?
Danatgtworx: yeah they pretty much look like new

Danny23

iTrader: (7)

Never a problem. I followed the directions for rotor seasoning and brake pad bed-in and it was perfect until the day i traded it in for the IX.

MR.MITSU

iTrader: (1)

Racing brake hands down slotted not drilled.

and if you are strapped for cash the one piece are great too although heavy

meanmud

iTrader: (74)

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...=160881&page=4

scroll down a bit

puckadog

iTrader: (4)

i got a set of wilwood front 2pc rotors last year. only 2 events on them so far. price was verry reasonable.

newimportowner

iTrader: (2)

this is taken from "Gary_ BremboRT" this is what he was saying about cross drilled rotors

heres the thread, read beyond the first page too, he has a lot of good comments on rotors.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...rilled+slotted



First things first...I would definitely stay away from the rotors you mentioned in your fist post. Brembo does not produce a drilled & slotted rotor. There are many companies out there that purchase blank discs and do the drilling and slotting themselves, re-box them and sell them as Brembo discs.

A true Brembo Sport Rotor will be either Drilled OR Slotted...never a combination of both. They will also come in a Brembo Sport Rotor box, sold as a pair, and will be identified with a 5 digit part # starting with the number 3???? for drilled and 4???? for slotted.

If you are seeking a true Brembo Sport Rotor always check to see if the source is an authorized Brembo Dealer. When in doubt, feel free to call 714-438-1118.


Also, contrary to what many people post on these forums, drilled and slotted rotors do in fact offer a performance benefit. The main factor in a performance disc, even one of original diameter and thickness, is the quality of the disc. A cheap Asian manufactured grey iron disc, will always be a cheap grey iron disc. Brembo Sport Rotors are made of a higher quality cast iron than what is seen in most other manufacturers. This ultimately creates a longer lasting and better performing disc under extreme use.

Second is the benefit of drilling or slotting. Each offers a benefit that will be specific to the driving conditions and usage.
If you are currently experiencing fade that is induced by exceeding the heat capacity of the factory disc and pads...a Sport Rotor of equal size will most likely not offer any benefit.
If you are simply seeking a higher quality disc that will function with a more aggressive pad, braided lines and high performance fluid...it will tie the whole package together.

Drilled rotors are generally recommended for street usage only.
Slotted rotors are recommended for off highways usage and "track like" conditions.

Many of you have heard the rumor that "drilled rotors crack".
The fact is that All Rotors Crack. Even smooth or slotted disc's. As all rotors experience high heat situations, common with performance driving, the typical sign of wear shows up in the form of tiny hair line cracks. These hairline or spider web type cracks happen due to the repeated heat cycles that the discs go though during aggressive driving. The only time that these crack pose a problem is when they are large enough to feel as you rub your finger nail across the surface.

The reason that drilled rotors are recommended for street use is because the tiny holes in the disc do promote better cooling characteristics. In a track type environment this additional cooling actually accelerates those tiny heat cycling induce cracks and ultimately lead to shorter life span of the disc. On the street, where you do not have the benefit of long straight-aways and cool down laps, the additional cooling offered by the drilled holes, does offer slightly better cooling to protect the disc from over heating and possible warping. There are other slight advantages such as refreshing of the pad, and even minimal amounts of weight reduction.

Slotted discs are actually preferred in track type situations for slightly different reasons. The main reason is the effect of the razor like edge of the slotting. This edge will constantly scrub along the pad and ensure a fresh bite between the pad and disc upon applying pressure to the brake pedal. Also the disc will last longer without the additional heat cycling that you commonly see with a drilled disc.

Now...keep in mind that all of the above information is dependant upon have a disc that can handle the high amounts of heat created during aggressive driving situations. if you are exceeding the heat capacity of the disc and pads you will ultimately need to upgrade to a larger Big Brake type system.

Also commonly mentioned on these types of forums, "most people will never reach the limit of needing a Big Brake system". That is why a high quality disc upgrade, along with high performance pads, fluid, and braided lines, stand as a great starting point. After this type of upgrade, if you never experience fade, you will most likely never need to upgrade to a BBK.

There are additional benefits of a BBK such as unsprung weight savings, improved pedal feel and response, floating discs, shorter stopping distances, ect.
If any of those benefits appeal to you, there is never any harm in upgrading directly to a Big Brake system.

MR.MITSU

iTrader: (1)

Wow, I learned something from this thread!

jbrown

iTrader: (17)

OUCH! PFC really laid the smack down on that one! Good reading though.

EVOBrakes

iTrader: (67)

Yes they did

And a good quality rotor that is drilled should have no issues w/ street use/street pads.

Don't pretend it's helping you stop any better though - i tlooks nice

Any machined rotor - drilled/slotted/dimpled whatever does add bite which is a bonus for street pads. The drilled ones start to have issues when heavily heat cycled to high temperatures - pretty much above what you would expect on the street but fairly easily encounter on the track.

ZK

iTrader: (10)

I just installed my Racing Brake front rotors. They work good on the street but makes a loud whirring sound when braking. I'm told that's normal. The real test will be at the track.

I get the feeling that most of these products would work fine so you're pretty much just nit picking.