cfdfireman1

iTrader: (11)

It's hard to tell from that picture how much room you have. If there’s more than an inch or so you should be fine. There is a bit of slack in the original camber bolts that could explain the difference in the 2 sides, the top of the wheel can be moved in and out when the bolts are lose.

Czubaka

iTrader: (11)

Correct, just like the manual says. However, I still don't believe the camber plates should be offset like that. That's why I think you need to remove the bolts and check their condition to make sure they're not messed up. Also, look at the bottom bolts to make sure they're the standard round kind. You shouldn't be able to stuff a camber bolt on the bottom; but it's worth looking at since things seem to be a little strange.

Personally, I would run max negative camber with the camber bolts, then use the camber plates to lessen it for the street, then really crank it over for the track.

Profoxcg

iTrader: (9)

there is actually 1/4" or maybe less..

cfdfireman1

iTrader: (11)

That's a little too close.

Profoxcg

iTrader: (9)

well I talked to a tech from mitsu today and told me that the camber bolt is not centric and the way the camber is set is by loosening the bolt, pulling or pushing the knuckle and then re-tightening the bolt..?

I called the alignment place, I will talk to him, I mean the car pull a little to the left and he said I have "memory steering" ?

I guess I could fix the memory steering by purchasing a new set of camber plates - being that they come with hopefully new bearings?

At this point I am thinking of going back to the stock suspension.

mannymartinez

iTrader: (1)

well hes right about the bolts. they either face in or out. the white arrow mark that is.

the only way to turn them is to loosen a bit enough to pull it out and turn them in the desired direction.
(not sure if thats what u didn't understand or not)

kekek

iTrader: (22)

Is not having the plates in the same place such an enormous concern?

Ever care to look at your tie rods and see if they are the same? Probably not since they are out of sight.

1/4"+ is good clearance for the tire. There isn't much (if any) tire deflection at the top and since it is a strut suspension that relationship will remain the same all the time. Easiest way to get extra tire clearance is to swap your camber bolts and have the arrow pointing in. Then reset camber at the plate.

Profoxcg

iTrader: (9)

to me it is, and yeah that is what we are going to do. I already spoke to my alignment guy, hes is pretty good. he explained the same to me a few mins ago.

iamdace

iTrader: (1)

How certain are you that nothing is bent on the hub/knuckle assembly?

Theoretically what the bolts look like up top shouldnt matter as long as you still get the camber set correctly on both sides.

Czubaka

iTrader: (11)

True, execpt for the fact that camber plates are designed to allow you to adjust the camber at the track. If your settings are all jacked up to begin with, then it defeats the purpose of having them in the first place.

Profoxcg

iTrader: (9)

+1

iamdace

iTrader: (1)

and you are going to adjust your toe at the track also?

Czubaka

iTrader: (11)

???? What does that have to do with this conversation? Of course I'm not going to adjust toe at the track. You can't do that with camber plates.

iamdace

iTrader: (1)

adjusting your camber directly effects your toe but you are right this is off subject

Profoxcg

iTrader: (9)

So today I took my car for another aligment to a different place.. the tech told my one of my tie rods is a little bent but it shouldnt be a problem...

This is what i came out with from TK performance:

FRONT:
Camber -0.2 / -0.7
Toe: 0.00

REAR
Camber -1.2 / -1.4
Toe: 0.25

My car is lowered with buddy club coilovers. He told me that since there is only two adjustments for camber in the front it is hard to get the camber perfect... so he recommended i get some camber bolts (SPC) especially if I want my camber plates (for my buddyclub's) to look even... Any thoughts?
What are the factory alignment settings?