EVO IXMR

iTrader: (6)

ohlins

theshadow

To the OP: I'm curious what HOT pressures were you ended up liking on your R888s for track use?

The reason I ask is I'm runing a somewhat similar setup to what you described - -2.4 camber front, -1.5 rear, +0.05 toe out all around, and I'm using the standard KW V3s made for the Evo IX, wich use 9k/7k springs f/r and I suppose I should also mention that I do have all the Whiteline bits - rell centre, steering precision, bump steer, trailing arm bushing + rear sway - and IMHO the whiteline stuff is worth *every *single *penny.

Used to run 33f/31r psi HOT on my Bridgestone RE55s and liked it alot, but am getting alot of mixed data on what to use for the R888s - Toyo US website recommends high 30s to low 40s psi hot for track, Toyo Australia seems to recommend similar but with many many caveats.

I'm thinking if starting with 34/32 psi f/r HOT but I'm just curious what worked for you!

Incidentally, on the topic of suspension - if you are serious about suspension setup then something I think you should consider before spending huge $$$ on fancy-branded shocks is diverting some $$$ to be spent on renting some good knowledge in setting them up. My advice is to find a shop or technician with some (successful) experience in setting up shocks and tuning suspension for racing cars. It seems pretty obvious but if you find a shop or person you trust, just work with them and follow their advice - buy something reasonably good as per their recommendation and have them set a base setup for you which you can fine tune over time. That's what I did and I must say that i would have been totally lost without the help! If you're going to spend alot, spend smart - on what counts most - knowledge!

It took a lot of trial and error on top of my base setup to get it to where I am now handing-wise (fine tuning the ride height, corner balancing and finding the perfect alignment etc.) but between good profesisonal advice and my own experimentation my Evo now handles like a wet dream - perfectly neutral in steady state cornering even if driven very aggressively, razor sharp turn in, pulls 1.2 Gs in non-cambered corners with ease (much more on some tracks!) and I have the ability to make it understeer or oversteer on command as I see fit when pushing it really hard. Great car, and ultimately just as fast on track with 350hp on tap than some of the 500hp monsters are, depending on layout And all because I went to a good shop and worked with them on setup.

Which is why now all I need to do is fiddle with tire pressures to fine tune the level of grip. Hope you can help

jaytengan

wht ive head in socal is JIC mullerized or RObispec

Mr. Furley

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for your interest in the WORKS/Ohlins Stage IV coilovers. WORKS has
> > campaigned them on multiple vehicles with much success and they've held up
> > remarkably well. Since most in the market are also looking at Motons that's
> > where I'll start the comparison. (Nearly all other platforms cannot compete
> > in the long run.)
> >
> >
> > For starters, both are excellent, high quality shocks. Generally speaking
> > shock-for-shock, the Moton is an affordable racing damper which work fairly
> > well and are reliable. On the other hand, Ohlins are much more tunable and
> > much more robust.
> >
> > To begin, the two do utilize very different design philosophies in
> > controlling damping. The Motons use pre-determined adjustable
> > holes/orifices which dictate the fluid flow in addition to Nitrogen gas
> > pressure which is necessary in keeping the car up. The Ohlins use double
> > shim stacks with an almost unlimited amount of adjustability which results
> > in more responsiveness and more precise control. The reason Moton allows you
> > to adjust the Nitrogen pressure is because they do not have nearly as fine
> > of control on the fluid movement in the damper as Ohlins does. You can apply
> > the gas pressure technique to just about any shock and it just adds an
> > unnecessary extra variable. Some consider the nitrogen adjustability a
> > "band-aid."
> >
> > Using an inverted mono-tube design, the Ohlins plain bearings are very
> > large and the majority of the time the damper is compressed enough so that
> > wear on these guides is a non-issue. Our suspension engineer has run
> > inverted Ohlins on BMW's for numerous racing seasons in World Challenge
> > without needing to replace the bearings and we haven't seen a single issue
> > with EVOs since 2003. Inverted mono-tube is inherently structurally stronger
> > and the majority of fluid is subjected to less heat radiating from the
> > brakes.
> >
> > Ohlins (like the Motons) do have camber adjustment at the lower mounting
> > tabs available on some models, but you can use camber plates on both brand
> > dampers. Too much camber adjustment at the hub increases the bending moment
> > along the length of the shock and puts more long-term strain in a strut
> > configuration. Therefore, we typically stick to adjustable upper mounts
> > unless rules dictate otherwise.
> >
> > The Ohlins Stage IV double adjustable, piggyback reservoir are excellent
> > dampers and comparable to the Moton Clubsports (when properly valved). The
> > Ohlins have truly independent compression and rebound, broader
> > adjustability, are much easier to install and slightly less expensive. We
> > run these in most of our cars due to their performance value.
> > http://www.worksevo.com/store/produc...roducts_id=291
> >
> > The Ohlins Group-N dampers (triple adjustable with remote reservoirs -
> > comparable to the Moton Motorsports) are truly amazing. Again, the Ohlins
> > offer much better adjustment control and are virtually indestructible.
> > Conceived for World Rally (Gravel and Tarmac), they are the benchmark for
> > which others compare. Prodrive rarely uses anything else. These Ohlins have
> > few competitors and have stood the test of time.
> > http://www.worksevo.com/store/produc...roducts_id=130
> >
> > Then you get into the elite line of Ohlins racing shocks (comparable to
> > Penskes). The new Ohlins TTX dampers are quadruple adjustable and basically
> > the ultimate. Pretty much all European racing series are dominated by Ohlins
> > and Penskes for a reason. Larger budgets dictate the best money can buy.
> > These set-ups are very custom and will run an easy $15k+ depending on your
> > needs.
> >
> > Of course, your budget and intended use are the most important factors.
> > Both brands are awesome dampers and we can supply, support and service
> > either one you decide to go with. We are on-location at Infineon Raceway
> > with over 500 years of combined racing experience and can run any suspension
> > we choose. We currently campaign a few EVOs with Motons and while they have
> > progressed over the years, we all agree that the Ohlins are the shock of
> > choice.

CharlesJ

iTrader: (6)

Wow...thread is still going.

We need to get Kyle from hotlap in here to talk about his setup which apparently is quite impressive. An ANZE Engineering/Penske 3 way. He said it made a night and day difference on the track